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cainchapman

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Everything posted by cainchapman

  1. I found going to a 535 bad enough! Nowhere near as much torque.
  2. FYI http://www.consumer.org.nz/topic.asp?categ...enttype=summary If they are collecting your stuff over the week-end. They should have a 24 hour line for you to contact them with.
  3. That's what the VIR does Ollie. Have a look at line 5 of the sample VIR, it shows that it has been used as security on another loan. In short, you're not in a great position. "Caveat Emptor". You should talk to the finance company that repossessed it. It may not be a great deal of money owed.
  4. 3 pedals could answer this, I'm sure. Are you at work on Monday Grant? If so, I can swing by between meetings. Cheers.
  5. Wicked. http://videos.streetfire.net/video/51f08ad...91f288808eb.htm
  6. From Tech talk regarding Horsepower correction. http://www.land-and-sea.com/dyno-tech-talk...-horsepower.htm
  7. 172kW and 14.78sec for the 1/4
  8. Better change and upgrade the brake fluid. 10 laps of most circuits flat out will cause serious brake fade in normal cars. Hence, the reason you should do this upgrade, before looking for more power. Ask 'The Rat' how much fun it is slamming into a wall. Look at http://www.racebrakes.co.nz/ for tips
  9. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfN-g-WB4mI Still my favourite driver.
  10. Is that Kaiser Wilhelm? I'm with Grant on the being clean shaven again.
  11. Haha, Conrod, he was as German as Gerhard Berger. How sad are the German's when their most famous people aren't even really German. Charlie Chaplin had the mo much earlier than Adolf.
  12. The final slug. And then trained into the 'toothbrush moustache'. Even in a photoluminescent fire helmet.
  13. So, beside Beer, Diamonds and Chocolate, that's the next best thing Belgium has. Invite him over for the Targa!
  14. I always had trouble with the Nubian ones.
  15. I'm with Charlie Fox. In the long run you will be better having a driving/insurance record of your own. It hurts more initially, but if your next car is worth bigger bucks. It goes up proportionately. I'm pretty sure I started off with 3rd party fire and theft. If you know you will lose your car if you are at fault. Maybe you'll be a bit more sensible in it (not suggesting you aren't Emma). AA are pretty easy to deal with and offer good discounts in the long run if you are a member (and you'd be mad not to be). It also helps when you travel overseas and rent cars and want maps etc. Good luck with the purchase.
  16. I definitely, think you are being realistic. Try finding a car with the levels of performance, practicality and luxury for anywhere near that money. Good Luck. I've love to buy it.3 x 4l in the drive. That'd be fun.
  17. Buy the mounting frames, otherwise you need to drill holes in your plates. Photos of the Deli Roast mobile.
  18. An E36 M Coupe would be my pick for a drift BMW.
  19. I'd stick with the OEM Rotors. Mintex 1166 pads from Race brakes. brake_upgrade.pdf
  20. Ok, so how do you 'heel toe' an Auto? Andrew, are you saying that 95% of F1 drivers brake incorrectly? I doubt it. The only way to fall off the brake pedal, is if you never put your foot on it correctly to start with. The G forces from the braking should be driving you harder onto the pedal, not off it.
  21. I wan't meaing the $4k, more the $12k to buy. I'm sure it would cost you about $2k more to get installed and working properly too. 7hp more than an E39. Nothing to rave about. The Blown Jag and Range Rover use the same block as the BMW, I believe. Why not drop one of those in. Someone else has already done the hard work then.
  22. Learn how to "left foot brake". It will take you a while to get the amount of pressure right, but it becomes second nature very quickly.
  23. If you want legal NZ plates. www.plates.co.nz No other option. End of story.
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