bravo

Post it up on the nzice forums. THose guys watch trademe all day long. I tend to back into parking spaces near a wall if I can till I'm touching it - makes it much harder to break into a boot if you can't stand directly behind it.

Had one made for $30 which also meant I could have it shortened ever so slightly to compensate for the bend in my z3 1.9 shifter. Retail for one from parts place was around $80.

If they are metrics stay away. A mate at the tyre shop told me he woul dgive me some 5x120 BBS-style (I think they may be TWS's) for free. I said OK - what's the catch - oh you have to buy tyres for them. $500 a tyre. Oh Isaid - metrics aren't they? yup.... ass.

Akuma... that wouldn't be you Will would it?

Eventually ended up ringing somewhere in S.Africa that Will (Topless) dealt with when he was over there. They knew off the top of their heads. Lip is .3mm (Much less than I thought). The consensus of opinion of the clutch manufacturers and mechanics I talked to was the lip (even that small) was quite important. All of the flywheel machinists seemed to think it didn't matter. In any case it is back at the machinist being re-machined to spec. As far as thickness goes, I decided to double check the thickness (as I had an "assistant" do it for me). Turns out not only is my old man a blind old bastard, but even though he was brought up on it he can't read imperial and it wasn't 16th's of an inch on the scale, but 32ths, so that made a huge difference and the flywheel is actually 23.5mm thick not 19mm. Dad, you're fired you old, blind, twit! Anyhow, the min spec in the bentley is 25mm, and so I'm going to live with it as 23.5mm will withstand (IMO) most of the punishment I intend on delivering without warping and it means the flywheel is a whopping 30 grams lighter - badass.

UPDATE: They did ring me back the next day in the end, by which time my hose had already arrived on the courier from my parts supplier in Albany. For about 30% less I might add even after freight.

We have a sticky in the maintenance forum. When you searched prior to asking your question I would have thought you would have found it? Not to worry I have Linked it here for you.

Because I don't actually have one (doing manual conv.) and because I'm sure I could get one made for less than $230. I had already priced them. Thanks for the other replies - should be able to get something made up.

Damn - I liked the mag

Edit: Read the article Graham

The flexible line that goes into the slave cylinder - has a female fitting that goes on the metal line from the master and a male fitting on the end of a short peice of metal line crimped to the flexible line at the slave cylinder end. I'm having one made up but need to know how long it should be as I don't have the box mounted to measure myself - thought someone might know or could quickly measure. Also does anyone see any problem with it being totally flexible line with the male slave fitting on the end instead of having the short bit of metal line into the slave?

Filler, not filter kerry. You pour it down the dipstick tube. The ATF fluid bottle has a pourer built in to make it easy. Not sure about the other prob though.

upside down sam. Well I've spent 2 hours on the ph today trying to discover the answer I want. Basically I'm down to two questions: With my flywheel being 19mm is it now too thin to machine further? If not - how much lip do I need to create when its machined further? Cheers

This pic shows a flywheel with quite a step on it I can't for the life of me remember how much of a step mine had to start with. The above flywheel is not off an m20 but looks very similar. I'm surprised no-one here knows. Bloody frustrating to say the least.

Yeah I have been speaking with the guy in the workshop. They are happy to remachine it to put it right, but need to know what the specs are. No-one seems to know what they should be. Thay have "bitten the bullet" so to speak, but nowhere can anyone find anything which gives the specs for the step. I could just choose an arbitrary amount an have it put in (say 2mm). The other thing is, what are the cahnces of the flywheel failing if it is fixed now it is thinner? Its a solid steel flywheel, and should stand up to a fair bit of machining, but if its going to end up too thin they need to replcae it for me. I'd be happy with a secondhand flywheel machined correctly, but need to find out if mine is fixable first. Anyone got one they can put a micrometer on for me? One of you tech-heads/gurus out there (kerry, conrad, anyone?) must know something about this.

Spoke with 3 people at BNT the last one being the workshop person in charge of flywheel machining. Their book tells then it should be flat and so that's what they did. I argued the toss and they said if I can prove them wrong they'll sort me out. I spoke with some guy at Bavarian (just a young floor mechanic) who didn't know but said he was looking at an m20 flywheel that was flat. I spoke to Ross Lamb of BM Workshop - the friendliest, most helpful person ever, and he agrees with me that they shouldn't have flatened it and that whatever they took off the raised area should also be taken off the flange area to keep the relationship the same. I spoke to Eugene (Ross Lamb gave me his number) at tradeparts who seemed to think the lip should only be a fraction of a mm (it is 3-4 from memory/pics on the internet/as measured for me by e30stz ion a spare he has) and that it wouldn't make a diff. if its a fraction of a mm he may be right but I suspect he's wrong as he thinks the lip is so small. For what its worth he referred to BNT as a pack of f**kwits... I spoke to the local BMW service agent - they agree there should be a lip. I spoke to a mechanic I sometimes use that did his apprenticeship on e30's with BMW in the 80's. he agrees with me. What do you lot think I should do now - go back to BNT and tell them this or does anyone have any further ideas. I beleive I should be demanding a new flywheel (or at the very least a secondhand one machined correctly). But if it doesn't matter then all I'm doing is wasting everyones time and money. Ideas?

Gus's one was the bent one for the cast alloy shift console, so am still looking for one of these!

The test codes are for newer obc's. Don't work with the e30 ones AFAIK. but thatnks anyway.

I beleive it is up to them to know that kind of thing. When I got my brake rotors machined, the machinist looked in his book of specs and told me that they were/were not within limits and whether or not he could machine them or that I needed new ones. Until I got the flywheel back and noticed that there was something different about it I didn't even know about the raised area or minimum thickness. I just noticed it didn't look right so did some research, checked my manual and then even asked someone I know who all confirmed that it was not right and had to be either fixed or replaced. The machinist at BNT should have looked up the specs, or at least wondered to themselves why the flywheel wasn't flat all the way accross. If they do this all the time they should know there is a minimum thickness for a flywheel, and lloked up the specs for my one. They are the experts, not me. I'm happy to demand a new one, but want to make sure that there were no thinner flywheels for the m20 before I tell them they can't just re-machine my one. (I want to get my facts straigh in other words). Cheers for your fast response carl.

Shouldn't make a difference if the speedo is reading correctly. The car was on factory wheels when I bought it, i have changed the rims and tyres (to the correct size for the new rims) but did not play with the speedo. Therefore if the speedo is reading correctly (as it appears to be) then as before, it is the obc that is out. So any ideas how to calibrate it? i found heaps of info on how to do the e36 one, but nothing on the e30.

Front or rear. I may have a rear.

I sent my flywheel to BNT for machining and the useless buggers cocked it up. The m20 flywheel has two surfaces on the face pointing toward the gearbox - the surface the clutch makes contact with is rasied slightly from the outer surface the pressure plate bolts to to increase the loading of the pressureplate on the clutch disc. BNT ground the flywheel down so that it was dead flat all the way accross. I would have thought it was patently obvious to any dumb cluck that the surface in need of maching was simply the raised area the clutch disc contacts, but obviously not as these "experts" coyuldn't even do it right. My question is, how much is the rasied area supposed to be above the flange surface (that the pressure plate bolts to). As I am going to have to get them to redo it. Also, my bentley tells me that the minimum flywheel thickness is 25mm. I don't know what it was before machining, but it is now only 19mm. Is this because they ground it down by this much! or are there different flywheels than listed in the Bentley? Basically what I am asking is, am I ringing them up to give them a bollocking and demanding re-machining, or am I chasing them for a new flywheel as they have wrecked this one? Cheers

Found this wee gem. Link to PDF file

The OBC in my 325 seems to be reading the speed incorrectly. I have "tested" my speedo against Josh (hybrid)'s e46, his e30, and Tony (dirtysix)'s e36 and we all had exactly the same speed reading over a range of speeds form 80km/h up to just ofver the ton driving a flat straight road with even (as we could manage) following distances. Thus I beleive my speedo works correctly. However, if I reset my obc whilst maintaining, say an even 100km/h, then the average spped reading on the OBC reads about 7-10km/h slow. The speed limit warning bell sounds at 7-10km/h over the prescribed limit and my fuel consumption is out (when compared to a similar car doing similar speed so not entirely scientific I know) by around 10% at 100k/h which all points to the OBC being out of calibration. Anyone know how to adjust or fix it? Cheers

i don't know the reason why it works, but if I work out the kms I get from a tank of 98 and the kms I get from a tank of 95 and divide by the cost I get the same $ per km as the 98 goes futher. on that basis you could run whatever you prefer as the cost per km is about the same even though the cost per litre is not.