bravo

At that price Sam, I will hate you forever. But good luck bro - they'll look f**ken phat.

welding would be heaps cheaper. I had one where one of the pins had broken off. $20 to have a new pin the exact right size welded on.

I had an old bike that did the same thing. It ran like sh*t and didn't burn off the carbon even when hot. Every three or four weeks I pulled the muffler off and cleaned it out (the muffled dis-assembled so you could get the baffles out and take to them directly). If his mechanic couldn't clean it out, I'd say its been left too long.

There is a difference between classifying your vehicle as a commercial vehicle and adding cover for commercial use to your personal vehicle cover. You need to talk to your own insurance company to see whether you have the right cover. If they think you have lied about the use of your vehicle in order to access cheaper cover you may not be covered at all. The onus would be on you to prove the vehicle was a comemrcial vehicle. There is no free ride in other words. Jazz - most insurance policies will not cover your vehicle if it is being used for work purposes. I had this argument with my boss a few years back - I was using my vehicle regularly for work. My insurance company informed I was not covered for this. I inquired about the cost of cover and it was more expensive - not cheaper! So I asked my boss if I was covered under their policy. Of course I wasn't. I asked for more $$ to pay my insurance - he said it was all included in the current rate and it was up to me to organise insurance. I stopped using my vehicle for work that day. Silver lining was, my boss saw my point of view and ponied up for a company vehicle so now I don't even have to drive my own car to work, but thats a different story.

don't know, but maybe faulty fuel gauge saying the tank is empty when it's not?

I got a mongoose - great alarm - shitty install. Well hidden and hooked up and working, but the wiring job is a dog's breakfast. Make sure you get a good installer even if it costs you more.

HB Tony. What'd you get???

No it goes where the stock air box is - you leave the Air Flow Meter (plastic box sitting on top of alloy thing). It goes where the shiny box with dytech written on it is.

girl

Andy is prob right - the reason they flash fast is because one bulb is not lighting so there is less load on the relay. Means the prob is with that fitting, not with the whole circuit.

Pretty sure that was on nzice bro. Edit: yep - Here

Is your car cursed?

Lotus principles FTW

PLates are not a WOF item. In fact, you cannot register a car without a WOF, so therefore it must be possible to get a wof for a car with no plates at all! Edit: just checked the WOF manual - you have to have a VIN - that is all. no plates required for WOF.

You don't have to accept a write-off assessment. My sister was driving her mint mk I eskie down the road a few months back. Stopped to turn right and was rear-ended at around 80km/h. The 4x4 which rear ended her was written off. The off-duty cop who then ran into the back of the 4x4 did moderate damage to his van . The eskie had a ripple in the roof, neither passenger side doors would open, its f**ked basically, but my sister drove it home. It drives relatively straight. The guy in the 4x4 was convicted of careless use. Panelbeater came and quoted $7000-9000 to repair. Insurance company offered $3000 as write-off value. We refused. Classic car dealer came and vauled the car at over $5000. Insurance company said OK we'll give $5000 and we get the car. We said no. We want it repaired. We want our $7000-9000. And your lucky we aren't claiming for the last 5 weeks worth of hire car that we should have got while you been pissing us about. Insurance company came back with OK $5000 and you keep the car. Done. Moral - don't give in. It might take a few weeks, but at the end of the day, we got what we deserved. Plus now have a mk -I escort ute conversion project You are not at fault - you have a right to be left in the same or better position you were before the accident. Problem is most people back down and take second best.

Wheel alingment won't usually cause vibration - more likely to be a worn part somewhere - wheel bearing, balljoint, bush, rack end, etc, or a warped wheel (which you would have picked up when the wheels were balanced so not that).

Please explain how?? Insurance companies do not consider a vehicle you use to drive to and from school or work a commercial vehicle. That is just ridiculous. That would be like claiming mileage to and from work against your tax when you are a wage earner lol.

Anyone with enough money to buy a brand new BMW I'd say.

Sorry, no.

Charlie Fox - not always true. My insurance company let me carry on my no claims from the time I was first put as a named driver under my parents insurance company as I stuck with the same company. In other words I got all the benefits of cheap insurance under my parents name when I first started driving AND I got the no claims when I started paying for my own. That said, we do live in a rural area and so have much more flexibility and much cheaper insurance than you city dwellers. And not all companies would do that I'm sure.

beacuse then you have to paint the screw heads so you can't see them. Soooo much tidier with trim tape as Martyn suggests - they'll never come off if you use quality brand tape and clean the surfaces first. Plus they won't vibrate from your sub.

5.25" You can fit 6" but need to cut the trim that goes over the speakers so they can poke through. Easy to do.

You are living at home. As long as the car is purchased in your parents name, then there is no reason why they can't insure it for you too. Plenty of parents buy cars for their children - and alot flasher ones than a old e30 316! If you moved out of home, then it would be a bit harder to argue that it was their car and you were just borrowing it. You will be on the policy as the main driver, and probably will have a much higher excess to pay if you have an accident than if they were driving, and you won't be able to let your friends drive as they won't be insured, but other than that it should be fine. I've found with most insurance companies, if you are pretty straight up with them, then they are quite happy to be a little bit flexible on certain things. As far as what to look out for in the car - all the usual stuff: Good tyres incl. spare. No rust - esp look around sunroof (if it has one) around window trims and door seals, in the floor, up under the guards around the shock towers, along the sill, around the tail lights and in the firewall esp behind the fuse box where the main loom enters the car. Oil is relatively clean and topped up - be worried if is a cloudy colour - check under the filler cap. Check the coolant level and colour. Should be at the mark on the filler bottle and be a bright green. Check spark plugs for fouling. Start the car when cold and see how it starts and runs Get someone to check for smoke on start up. Again when hot. Give the car a really good rev - almost at red line for 3-4 seconds (the current owner will probably wince but you wont be damaging anything if the motor is hot) look for smoke out the exhaust during this time. Go for a drive. Does the auto change smoothly without clunks? Is the steering heavy or normal? Are there any unusual noises? How are the brakes - try a few emergency stops then fast take-offs on a deserted bit of road. Does the car pull to one side? esp when braking? Are there any vibrations through the steering wheel? Stop. Test the handbrake by engaging it and then trying to drive off gently - it should hold the car unless you really put the strain on the motor. Leave it engaged and change from reverse to drive and back again listening for a clunking sound. The box should engage smoothly and apply some load. Find a carpark and do a few tight circles to test the steering. Test the heater and fan. Check the wiper and windscreen washer operation. Check all lights. Watch for strange check lights on the dash. make sure they come on before you start and go off once the car has been started and the brake depressed. Get a compression test. And thats about it. Edit: Sorry about reposting Martyn and Andy's stuff - they beat me to it while I was posting.

yes. If your battery is flat, but not dead, everything will work, but it still won't start. Also 318is... advice worth checking (leads are making good contact with battery.

They fit - only trims are diff. 5 mins to change trims.