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Everything posted by bravo
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I have sent SD European an email pouinting them to this thread. f they bother to follow the link I feel it may help you situation as they realise how much bad press they are generating.
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My e30 is lowered - 105mm off the ground to be precise. A day or two ago with a car full of passengers I scraped over a speed bump as usual. This time however, the weight in the car and the angle on the bump I put a good sized dent in the fuel tank on the passenger side - no biggy me thinks as it has been dented before and it didn't crack or stress the tank too much. The next day I got a WOF and the dented tank passed. I filled up with gas yesterday and went on my merry way - a couple of kms on I came to a roundabout and proceed to go round it at around 20km/h - half way round the back just lets go and I'm into a full opposite lock skid - at 20km/h in the dry!!!! I carried on carefully trying to figure out what happened - I thought diesel on the road, but then why didn't the front let go. A couple of corners later - this time at 70km/h in the 100 zone the back starts to let go again so I stop and have a look at the car - there is a puddle of fuel under the car and a trail behind me. Fuel is dripping onto the hot exhaust and then the cause of my problems - it is spraying back onto the rear tyres creating a total skidfest. The source of the leak? When the tank was dented it pushed up on the bottom of the fuel guage sender (some models will also have a transfer pump here) and it pushed up onto the tabs it screws down into. This meant that it didn't screw down tight on the top of the tank and fuel was splashing up around the sender all over the electric terminal for the guage and then down onto the hot exhaust and tyres. I hadn't noticed until I filled up as there wasn't enough gas in the tank to spill out. A quick panel of the tank and a tap on the locking tabs to bend them back down so the sender could screw down tight was all that was required to fix it however I couldn't help but think of what might have happened had the first sign been the back letting go at 100km on the motorway... Was scary as f**k...
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Same - someone else mentioned this weeks ago and got no fix. I use the moxilla plug-in "Image Zoom" I can then right-click large images and "zoom to fit" - makes everything fit in the viewable window.
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good idea - got a spare one by any chance? I need the skirt it fits into too as once the duct was gone it flapped in the breeze and wore against the tyre.
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Why? Just because a sensor decided to sh*t its pants (so common on the brake wear sensor) you won't go to that mechanic?Check yourpad wear (you can do it by just removing the wheel and having a look through the inspection hole in the caliper - if pads have less than 1.5mm to go they should be replaced (according to the gospel of Bentley from memory). If they all look fine it's a faulty sensor - remove the bulb and remember to check the pads every time it's serviced.
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Expensive lesson on how not to treat your auto.You have two options. Option 1: Pull out the torque converter and put a new one in. Cost prob around the $300-400 mark or do it yourself for a few hours labour and the cost of a torque converter. If it fixes it, you're lucky. IF the 'box is knackered then add $400 - $500 for a new box and another couple of hundy labour to install it. Option 2: Manual conversion as above - cost you maybe another $300 or so on top of the cost of fixing the auto but worth every penny.
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no - sorry I didn't even check to see what model e30 you had danutt. My auto won't fit either although the torque converters may be the same? You will need a 'box from a 4cyl e30 NOT a 6cyl.
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Pretty much. These things always cost more than you budget for, but if you budget a grand and use secondhand clutch etc and you find someone to help you put it in, then you will probably end up with some over.Mine cost me $1800 including new clutch and quite a few tools that I was short. Also the conv. kits seemed to cost more back then too. Mine was $750 and although not the cheapest it wasn't the most expensive either.
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I need the brake cooling duct and the plastic skirt it fits into at the wheel end - LHS on my FL e30. Graeme McC - I got one off you before - you don't hapen to have another lying around??
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I have an auto one is what I meant. There are manual ones on trademe and E30stz has a full conv. kit but I don't know if it's for sale. If it is fo sale, then you could get all the parts (except a new clutch) for around $800 or so. There is a thread on here if you search regarding the swap, how to do it and what parts you need. It's a sticky in maintenance or performance I think.
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Andy - those prices re: man. conv. are only if you do it on the cheap - if you do it properly i.e. new clutch pressure plate and throw-out bearing, resurfaced flywheel - associated bolts, new rubber driveshaft coupling, new bushings, recond or new slave and master cyl. etc you're looking at well over a grand for parts incl. the 'box and conv. kit. If you don't do it properly don't complain if your clutch needs replacing and your gearbox has to come out agin in a few months. Saying that - it is still a much better idea than putting another auto in. I have one for sale BTW if you want one.
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un reg'd?? or on hold. if unreg'd deny ownership maybe? Long shot as you're prob last reg'd owner and your address is adjacent where it was ticketed but you may be able to find some angle.
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Must have run out of e numbers - I suppose f is the next logical letter to use??
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With dynatron any model can have the paging function added - it is an optional extra - get the alarm with the basic features you want and add the paging feature - they have a website - go look for yourself.
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Use your home contents insurance - mine covers lost stolen and damaged phones and I dont have to pay an additional $84 a year for vodafones ph insurance - they pay out cash value of the phone (or current equivalent if it's no longer available) less $150 excess. if I then want to go buy a cheaper ph from say PI for example and pocket the change - that's up to me. Done it twice now - 1 stolen ph, 1 damaged beyond repair (I had to send in the broken ph of course and the manuals and charger for the stolen one to prove I wasn't on a con and they also required the stolen one to be blacklisted).
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If you are buying it as a toy - ie not for business, just get a cheap one and buy separate devices for the other things like web or camera. After owning 5 or 6 "top of the line" phones and having all the hassles associated with new technology (it's called cutting edge for a reason), the fragility of feature-packed phones, and then the compromises of an all-in-one unit, I have gone back to $200 "disposable" phones - If a $800 ph lasts me 1-2 years, I can have 4 cheapies for that price and $200 still gets you pxt albeit with a waste of time camera. I then buy a $500 odd digicam and there are portable internet devices out there for bugger all. ipod does my mp3's - why have mp3's on your ph? Its the same logic behind rack hi-fi vs mini/midi system. The majority of people still go for the mini or midi, but the smart ones among us know there is no beating a well put together rack. Same with ph's - don't buy a flash gizmo as its basically a flash, expensive, hunk-of-sh*t, brick. buy 3 less expensive devices tailored to the use required. You'll be happier and you wont mind dropping your ph down a SW drain. (oh and if you see what I've put my cheapies thru - they'd probably survive the drain - one's been thru the washing mashine and is still sweet 4 months on.)
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Good, get used to it.
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On FL models it is part of the front valance, but I am under the impression that on pre-FL cars it is separate?
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By silver I guess you mean that relfective white colour - don't know if signwriters have much of that lying around - white would do OK. You can buy reflective sticky tape from any safety store. There's NZ Safety in Albany, Glenfield, Avondale, Penrose, East Tamaki, and Wiri. www.nzsafety.co.nz and Protector Safety (www.protectorsafety.co.nz in Takapuna, Avondale, Penrose, and East Tamaki.
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I'd be interested in the wheels if you buy those chromies :thumb: De-rice the front seat and you'll be all gd. Sparkle is on the ball - get your suspension sorted properly - these cars handle great and for that reason can keep up with quicker cars on the corners - go low, but make sure you don't ruin the handling when you do. Oh, and polished alloys look better than chromes I reckon - still shiny as, but less heavy and not so ugly. Oh, and can you break your sentences up with gaps - your posts are really hard to read man. Cheers - glad to see another bimmer on the forums.
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So you bought these second hand I guess?? You can get the vinyl from any signwriter - ask them nicely for some offcuts - clean your plate thouroghly and then spray with water, cut the vinyl to size and peel off the backing - spray the sticky side with water. Then put the vinyl on the plate and wait for it to dry. The water makes it easy to stick on and remove all bubbles - it doesn't disolve the glue unless you really soak the vinyl in ALOT of water for some time. In other words its almost impossible to use too much water and the result is way better than you can possibly get without using water.