bravo

Not urgent at all - it all depends on whether they were reset at the last service. To turn them off requires you to remove the instrument cluster so as to remove the cluster batteries and/or the LED's themselves. Most people either just ignore them and leave it on red all the time, or reset them whenever the car has its oil service. A bmw mechanic can reset them using a tool, or you can do it yourself by following the instructions here. Welcome to the forum.

I'll up the bidding - $150? My G/F will put up the extra $50.

Oh I just had a thought: You have removed the driveshaft??? And also there is a throttle control cable from the gearbox to the throttle on top of the motor - you have to undo this (easier at the motor end). Also have you undone all of the cooling lines from the gearbox?

Bolts are on the engine side of the flywheel/flexplate. on the 6 cyl engines (may be the same for you) there is an inspection cover held on with torx head bolts that forms the lower part of the engine bellhousing. After opening this (you should already have it off to get your gearbox off) you can see the engine side of the flywheel - turn it by turning the engine on the front pulley or by using a screwdriver on the flywheel teeth (you wont break them so use some muscle). Undo the three bolts and begin.

Are you sure you've totally undone all of the bolts? Starter motor unbolted?You should remove the torque converter intact with the gearbox to reduce the chances of damaging it by bumping input shaft of the gearbox into the converter etc (or so the info I read before I did mine says). You need to unbolt the three bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate, then lever the converter off the motor - it gets quite stuck on there and you will probably have to use a gargantuan screwdriver to get it off. Gargantuan - I do so like that word, but I rarely get the opportunity to use it in a sentence...

Nice quote from the latest AA magazine. No, you are not the only person who reads it.

I've always tended to Nissan over mitsi myself after driving both. Driven Evo 1, 2, passenger in a 4 and 5 and VR4. Driven R32 GTS, GTS-T, worked GTS-T, extremely worked GT4 (wow!), passenger in r33 GTS-T, worked bluebird sr20det atessa (almost wow). Hit the nissan every time... Plus a worked gts-t will go as hard as an early evo for a fraction of the cost.

Don't forget that you have to make the box small enough to get it into your boot, or assemble it in there - if you make it as big as the space available in the boot, you wont be able to get it in. I made mine a fraction too large even after checking this - to get my sub out I have to remove my amp tray, slide the box over to that side of the car, slide the carpet out from under it, lots of swearing to squeeze the spare out, then push the box into the spare well (I had to cut down the thread that secures the spare) and then it just gets enough angle to come out. Pretty theif proof, but a bitch if I ever need to get it out. Google winisd you lazy bum - it's the first 6 results. If your too lazy to search, your probably too lazy to put the effort into designing it properly too.

Use WinISD (free on teh interweb) to enter in your sub specs and calculate the volume for ported or sealed. This volume given is box volume minus sub displacement, port displacement and reinforcing/bracing displacement so you have to add all these when working out the total volume - fiddly calculations invloved, but oh-so-worth it. Basket-out shouldn't be a problem. Ported is better than sealed in 99.9% of cases. width by height can be altered as long as volume doesn't change and it is not too disproportionate. You WILL need bracing and at least 18mm MDF for a 15" RF. It will be one heavy bitch but go so hard! you've bought some good gear. I spent almost as long calculating my box dimensions as I did constructing it and I have made a $100 sub sound good and that's not just my opinion, but the opinion of the few car sudio geeks I have auditioned it to. Worth the time to get it right in other words.

Price range?

how do you know? Unless you sit at a constant value on the gauge for a set number of kms and then check the gas used. Otherwise its all in your head - the needle is constantly moving as terrrain and road conditions vary - at the end of a trip you may average fuel consumption somewhere in the range you saw the needle hovering but that's the point - its rough, rough good enough, but not accurate by any means. Vacuum gauges for fuel usage are indicative only. sorry.

how many kms?

who cares? it's a gimmick and dubious to it's accuracy in any case. Probably just getting on. Pull the instrument cluster apart and check for carbon build up on that needles track but otherwise it's probably just done it's dash. escuse the pun.

Wheel alignment, uneven tyre wear or something in the suspension or steering worn/loose. Tkae it in to somewhere like Midas for one of those free vehicle checks. Unless someone actually drives your car to see what exactly is happeneing then has a look underneath those symptoms are pretty tricky to diagnose.

incl. CSL air dam - or standard m3 one?

Don't worry - we've already seen it here Junglegus who asked a question on it is a member here also.

link

That's why the second I realised what was happening the fire extinguisher came out from under the drivers seat where it lives ready just in case.

Looks to me as though the door handles are the only e36 bits on it... I like it in that if it were mine I'd rip off some of the kit and replace it with more tastefull items and then it would be kickasss.

I hope that was an attempt at irony.

Hope I don't get into trouble for revealing, but it's pretty obvious if you ask me - i've noticed the following: gmccormack brent49

Deftones - biggish bump and the very end of the bump as I was trying to go sort of around it and at an angle as you do - hence why it hit the tank not the chassis rail. sic - I rode a bike for 4 years in Dunedin. Dunedin = cold. Cold = black ice. I've had a few near-death one's down there I can tell you including a proper 180 at close to 50km/h with no harm done and dropping the bike totally on the higway with it sliding to a stop under the car in front - no injuries thank god. Gus - yeah new celly - PM'd you the numba. 318is - yup - self diagnosis, and the old BFH cure - Big f**king Hammer (piece of clean wood tapped with a hammer through the hole to panel the dent, and light taps with a hammer on the locking tabs). Andrew - got your funny undies on bro? Tim still beats me.

I have sent SD European an email pouinting them to this thread. f they bother to follow the link I feel it may help you situation as they realise how much bad press they are generating.

My e30 is lowered - 105mm off the ground to be precise. A day or two ago with a car full of passengers I scraped over a speed bump as usual. This time however, the weight in the car and the angle on the bump I put a good sized dent in the fuel tank on the passenger side - no biggy me thinks as it has been dented before and it didn't crack or stress the tank too much. The next day I got a WOF and the dented tank passed. I filled up with gas yesterday and went on my merry way - a couple of kms on I came to a roundabout and proceed to go round it at around 20km/h - half way round the back just lets go and I'm into a full opposite lock skid - at 20km/h in the dry!!!! I carried on carefully trying to figure out what happened - I thought diesel on the road, but then why didn't the front let go. A couple of corners later - this time at 70km/h in the 100 zone the back starts to let go again so I stop and have a look at the car - there is a puddle of fuel under the car and a trail behind me. Fuel is dripping onto the hot exhaust and then the cause of my problems - it is spraying back onto the rear tyres creating a total skidfest. The source of the leak? When the tank was dented it pushed up on the bottom of the fuel guage sender (some models will also have a transfer pump here) and it pushed up onto the tabs it screws down into. This meant that it didn't screw down tight on the top of the tank and fuel was splashing up around the sender all over the electric terminal for the guage and then down onto the hot exhaust and tyres. I hadn't noticed until I filled up as there wasn't enough gas in the tank to spill out. A quick panel of the tank and a tap on the locking tabs to bend them back down so the sender could screw down tight was all that was required to fix it however I couldn't help but think of what might have happened had the first sign been the back letting go at 100km on the motorway... Was scary as f**k...

Same - someone else mentioned this weeks ago and got no fix. I use the moxilla plug-in "Image Zoom" I can then right-click large images and "zoom to fit" - makes everything fit in the viewable window.