bravo

Badass fish! Got a few Kahawai myself yesterday - really bloody big buggers, but only "keyring" sanpper. Sounds like an awesome adventure.

That is pretty awesome.

205HP standard, put a decent exhaust and push boost to around 11-12lb - seat of the pants dyno say 215HP. Not "serious HP" but a bit better than your average e30 with 170HP max.

You'd probably be looking at the following: Gus's bottom end $900 Other parts (HG, bolts, sundries) do you have a diesel crank Gus?) sump from 320 fit? could easily blow out to $500 or $700 Installation - say $500-800 if no problems 2.7 chip ??? Total guess say $300-500 Thus total could come to almost $3k worst case scenario. Do it you self and you could knock $1k off the top. Oh plus don't forget $400 for certification and the fact yuou will have quite a hike in your insurance. and gains?? dunno, but as a wise man once said But that's me playing the devil's advocate - If you have a 320 the only way to get a big enough gain to be comparable would be to buy and work a 325 ($3k less what you get for your m20b20) or m50b25 ($5-7k or more -since you won't be installing that yourself either I guess - less what you get for your m20b20) or turbo ($3-5k???). So comparably its not the most expensive option.

Where'd you go tho Andrew - a leather smith somewhere should do it for pocket change- yuo weren't silly and went to a dealer or car upholsterer were you?

To save on Andrews hosting I won't post them all - here's the link if you want to see more. e30 Limo y0!

I'm usually loath to post something from another forum especially since I know a lot of you whore in them aswell, but this one just had to be stolen...

Umm Andy - I think he means not having to fabricate new mounts - ie he wants a motor that bolts to the same mounting points - I don't think he's trying to save $80 worth of rubber.

Ask e30stz - his Dad's bimmer recently failed a WOF due to this - apparently it affects the ability to control the car safely??? WTF! Presumably it has been fixed now Andy?? Try a sailmaker or canvas shop or leather smith/saddler.

It's your guitar - do what you want, although I would look strangely at any musician I went tosee who had a car logo-themed guitar. Emma - there is more than one band in the world and many of them better than Rammenstein - widen your aural experience.

Power Take Off? Sweet, I can run my woodchipper off it...

It's advertised with BOV and intercooler - were these present when you had a look Andrew?

Thinking about it, I wonder how many people have used the sheet-metal shift console on a m20 trans for a m50 swap - Would have fitment issues I imagine.

If you are referring to the need for a custom cross member or not, you need one to use the m20 trans as the m50 is on a tilt and therefore so is the 'box. e36 trans mounting points are in the right place to use the stock mounts if you want to use an e36 trans.The selector rod still needs to be modified once a custom crossmember is made for m20 trans, but this isn't hard - you could do a bit of bendy,bendy, but prob better to cut and weld 'a-la' r3v thread.

I thought it was 10deg, not 20.

Yeah it has to be certed. The requirements are if engine is changed it MUST be certed UNLESS: 1) it is of the same or less capacity, and 2) has equal or less weight; and 3) has the same or less power output; and 4) uses the same fuel; and 5) uses the same unmodified attachment points and system; and 6) uses the same ancillary equipment (accelerator linkages etc); and 7) uses the same family of block and cylinder head from the same vehicle manufacturer; and 8) is of the same configuration. m50 swap violates: 1) if upgrading from m20b20. 2) as it weighs more 3) as it has more power 5) if you use the m20 gearbox as you have to fabricate a new transmission crossmember. 6) as you have to use a modified brake booster 7) as it is a different family of block and cylinder head i.e m50 not m20 so it must be certed. But should fly through with no probs if you follow the rules which are easy as pie for this swap. (That is assuming that you make your g/box crossmember strong and properly, and that your certifier does not think that you need to upgrade suspension, struts, wheel hubs and brakes to deal with additional weight/performance. Which they shouldn't from what I have been told in this case, but it would be worth talking to the certifier in your area before you start) m20b20 -> m20b25 violates: 1) and 2). As for insurance - that is up to your company.

Blatantly stolen from R3v. Schmeesh. http://www.bimmerspinner.co.uk/

I don't but mines a 240 and I'd rather have a low km's 260. I've decided against it - even tho it's prob a good buy. $3k is a lot to spend when an extra 2 or so will get me very close to a completed m50 swap. Additionally my neighbour just approached me about going halves in a party wall between our properties for a new commercial building. If we decide to go ahead I'll need every cent I can scrape together, so it's a case of wait and see. If anyone is interested in the motor PM me and I'll pass on the vendors contact details.

Just so I'm not entirely off-topic. Urapukapuka Is. up here in the bay.

Otago Girls? Ahh the memories..

Take a photo of your car with brakes applied. Sounds like they are giving you the run-around. I just refreshed my knowledge of the stop-lamp requirements and it doesn't appear to say you have to have all lights working just one plus high-stop as my_e36 had said

I was one of the proponents against towing of boats with RWD low-powered, small cars such as yours (no offence, but it is in comparison to a 5-er or 7 or the all-to-common "ramp-hack" commies and 'coons) However, if the ramp is flat and in good cond, a little wee 13 footer prob not too bad. I'd still be worried it might try and overtake you on the motorway.

Well I worked it out this way - 2nd hand 'box = $500-700 2nd hand 325 engine $900+ depending on km's. So thats $1500 plus with no guarantee and something close to 200kms. Or say $1500-2k for a damaged 325 with good engine and box that I could part the rest out. I'd have to do fluids and cambelt on those too and there would be way less life in the 'box and clutch. But I prob wouldn't have to worry so much about gaskets (maybe) and other random things I haven't thought of. So if it goes well it's a great price as all up installed (by me) with new cambelt and gaskets etc and so on I'm looking a little over 3k for what is essentially as good as a recond' motor and new 'box. So its about right price wise IMO. And the idea at this stage is once it's going I could start looking for a 320 shell such as Andy (e30stz) and put my old motor in it and flick it off to try and recover costs. Anyone know if I'm likely to run into any probs with radiator hoses not matching up (thanks andy ) and also I plan to leave the oil cooler lines plugged up (as I know it's possible to run it removed and I don't have one in my 320 so it's easier that way). Keep comments coming. My other thought was that I could do an m50 swap and have been planning that, but this is much easier for a first time swap and will ultimately cost less. I know I'm going to end up with 20 odd HP less than m50, but that can be for next time maybe.

They're only willing to give a full waranty if it sells for "retail" i.e $3-4k. Happy to sell "subject to" blah blah, but no waranty as such.

For those of you who troll TM you'll have seen the m20b25 with getrag on sale that had done only 80kms (not 80,000). I bid on the auction but was outbid by a "young" bidder who then pulled out. The vendor has since offered the motor to me for my highest bid of $2200. I plan on putting the motor and 'box complete into my car and then disposing of my m20b20 and getrag 240 5spd at a later date. The engine was originally swapped from Steve Mosen for a 2002 about 12 years ago and has been stored by the current owner ( a workshop that service BMW's among others in the Eastern Auckland region). It has been properly dry-stored and oil has been poured down the bore and into the cylinders thru the spark-plug holes from time to time and it will turn over by hand. (not seized). Compressions are even but no figures. They are willing to sell subject to it starting (but obvioulsy until it is in a car with all sensors hooked up there is no way to tell how well it will run). Cam belt will need replacing obviously and it has no AFM or ecu. Comes complete with power steer pump, air con, alternator, water pump, loom and mounts. Any comments, warnings, advice ect etc. I have negotiated 24hrs to confirm purchase before it goes back onto the open market. Cheers.