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Jamez

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Posts posted by Jamez

  2. Posted · Report reply

    I've driven a average to rough one. A truly shocking experience, issues were as vast as you could imagine.

    Aprils 850i was a dog to drive when it had rooted EDC suspension, the fronts were like a bouncy castle and the rears had binded solid. Changing to bilsteins were a night and day difference, drives like a dream.

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Because I have nothing better to do this morning I started analyzing data:

    Here is the breakdown of best corner and straight line speeds from the 4hr vs old data.

    Front Strai, T1, Back, T2, T7, Straight, T8, Straight, T9, Straight, T10

    Hanko.. James - 211, 115, 167, 88, 102, 145, 62, 135, 60, 176, 107

    Dunlup. James - 208, 098, 161, 87, 105, 137, 57, 135, 65, 167, 97

    Summery - Due to lack of turn in at lower speeds I was getting understeer into turn 2 which led to turn 7 not being lined up correctly, this resulted in a lower speed over the crest. This was also a problem going into the hairpin as I was braking early due to under-steer on corner entry coming over the crest.

    It could be a bump steer issue or it could be for another reason.....my tires were all 30psi hot but the front left was 10C hotter on the outside than the inside with all other tires having perfect temps. I am guessing this is because I ran out of time to do a proper wheel alignment so did it by sight and until the car tracked in a straight line.

    Can't wait to get testing before the icebreaker and get the setup perfect.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Honda Integra Type R (late 90's). Cheap to build, easy to get spare parts, easy to get more horsepower, pretty reliable and cheap to buy. The Jap import type R comes with a factory LSD! 5 of my mates have them and they are doing 1.20's - 1.23's around HD with just intake and exhaust mods, coilovers, seats, belts and semi slicks!

    Most fun you can have for under 10K and faster than an E30 :D

    My old e30 325i was doing 1:21's with just semi's and decent brake pads, anything can do a decent time if it is setup properly. Even my old e30 318i auto with 14" 195's triangles managed to do a 1:28 before the brakes caught fire.

    I wouldn't go for an e30 track car.

    I have many times, its a great base for any track hack. The chassis forgives, parts are cheap and it doesn't cost to much to get a new chassis when you bend it.

    E36 328 over the M3. Reasonable power with M50 manifold and much cheaper to replace when it lunches itself.

    Throw a lightened flywheel and decent clutch in it, short E30 LSD, some decent suspension (you dont _need_ coilovers), strip it out, throw some seats in it, E46 brakes and spend the rest of the time trying to break it.

    Easy.

    Every E36 I have driven has been a bore, be it 328i or M3 they just lacked the fun factor for me.

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Nice work James - glad it all went well for you in the race! I'll bet Chris won't get a look in the season??

    With the oily residue on the slicks - did you use anything to clean off the release agent from when they were made? Usually has some kind of silicone wax in it that stays on the tyre. I use CRC and a micro-fibre cloth to rub it off before scrubbing in. Just a thought...

    Chris is focusing on driving the F5000 this season (if his body is up to it) so I will be doing the full season in the e30.

    I didn't use anything to rub the tires, drove on them straight away.

  15. Posted · Edited by Jamez · Report reply

    Managed to get the car back together and went down to Hampton for the 12 Hour, came first in the 4hr and was up to third position overall (4/6/12 Hour) before I pitted (then Chris took over)

    Her is a video of my best lap -

    I managed to set a new PB 57 laps in, then got close to beating it in lap 99.

    Because info on how the Hankooks feel and last is hard to come by (apart from a few Porsche guys complaining they go off really quick) here is my thoughts:

    I got the C51 compound 17" Hankook F200 slicks and scrubbed them in on the qualifying - 2 slow laps, 1 fast, 1 cooldown. I was 1.5 seconds off my PB. When I came into pit lane they started to steam an oily vapor.

    I let them sit until the next day and overnight they had a oily residue all the way round them, on the warm up for the race it was like driving on ICE. This could have also been because the track was damp.

    With the Hankooks I was running 23 cold which gave 30 hot

    With the dunlops I run 26-27 cold which give 30 hot

    After a few laps into the race they started to match the performance of the old dunlops and for the first 50 laps I didn't push them to hard, was running about 2 seconds off my PB.

    After 50 laps I started to lean on them to see what I could do and I instantly got into the low 1:13's and set a new PB of 1:13.187.

    After 100 laps I thought they would be well past used but I still managed to do a 1:13.201 in lap 99.

    The performance didn't drop even after 177 laps of the 2.8km circuit. Wear was minimal, maybe about 80% tread left.

    I may have got such good life because I setup the car to be easy to drive and have minimal mechanical wear but I would have to say the Hankooks are well worth the money at $1600 per set. I expect them to last the Open Series season.

    Other cool facts

    I burned 32L of fuel every hour, this means the 130L will last 4 hours.

    My mouth got really dry after 1 hour, good thing I had a camel pack in the car.

    My brakes were struggling to get up to temp, even though they are standard brakes with no vents.

    Engine Oil temp was at 110C and water was at 85C for most of the race.

    Diff was 120C at the end

    edit - I should say that I will be softening up the front and adding a bit of toe out for the race series, this will help aid turn in. Also the weight of the car will be reduced by 120kg as I wont be running so much fuel for 8 lappers. Aiming for mid 1:12's round hampton.

    post-3670-1344329472.jpg

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Finished.

    Even though i have spent a shitload of time on this rebuild, the whole thing (including getting pitstop to do the headers) came in at $2279.11 incl, Compared to what others have spent in the off season i reckon thats a pretty good deal for a car that is aiming to do 1:12's round hampton.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    clean that sh*t before putting back on the car :P

    Spent part of today giving the engine bay a clean.

    Here is my list of stuff to do before next weekend:

    Already completed:

    Move Engine Back

    Move gearbox mounts forward

    Fix Front Subframe

    Replace Sump gasket

    Relocate Oil Cooler

    Oil Change

    Steering Rack Conversion

    Fit Front Antiroll Bar

    Relocate Radiator Tank

    Replace Coolant

    Relocate Engine Air Intake

    Relocate Swirlpot

    Replace Brake Bushings

    Fit Rear Brake Pads

    Remove gearshift slop

    Fiberglass Bonnet Cracks

    Headlight Covers

    Wheel Alignment

    Fit 120L Fuel Tank

    For Pitstop to Do this week

    Redo the Headers

    Remove the S from the Mid section of exhaust

    Nearly there, I will be running some new Hankooks for the 4 hour race at Hampton next weekend.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Our rear bushes seem OK. Maybe it was pressures...what do you run yours at hot?

    We are thinking of going A class this season too as the DOT tyre cost in B is too high and I'd like to try something differant. Keeping the rest of the car the same except for weight loss through lighter wheels and brakes and no ballast. Will be well off the pace of the fast A's but should be able to keep El Preso Foxy under control!! :)

    Wish September would bloody hurry up!

    I was running 30-32 hot, I found it didn't really matter to much as they were hard as nails.

  21. Posted · Report reply

    they seemed to "hop" sideways across the corners when really pushed.

    I had this issue with the e30 on slicks, found it was flogged rear bushes as when I fitted delerin bushes it stopped the shuffling.

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