Jamez

Selling this to make way for another BMW so up for sale is my SUZUKI RS-R WORKS, very rare.

1988 SUZUKI RS-R WORKS, NZ new.

543cc 3 cylinder, double overhead cam, 12 valve, multi-point EFI, turbo, inter-cooled with oil cooled pistons. 5 speed transaxle with full time 4WD (2WD can be selected by a lever from under the car). Suzuki only sold one of these cars in NZ and this is it, the first model Works were manufactured in limited numbers and are difficult to come by.

This car has really good handling characteristics for a Japanese car of this era and is at its best going fast.

This car has only done 90,300 kms and is basically original except that the turbo and injectors have been upgraded by a previous owner and they fitted a Momo steering wheel.

The car was in a private collection for about 6 years and then the last owner had it for about 3 years, they carried out extensive maintenance. New tyres, brake parts, engine seals, water pump, cam belt, alternator & water pump belts. Overhauled transaxle, alternator, starter motor, turbo , battery etc. I have owned the car since May and had no troubles at all using it as a daily, it is also very good on fuel.

The Lifters are noisy so will need some head work in the future. What this car lacks in size it more than makes up in ugliness and attracting looks for all the wrong reasons.

Sadly I need to sell as I need a tow car. Please feel free to ask any questions.

Here is the promo video from when the car first came out -

Here is the trademe auction for more pics and I am looking for ~$4k - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=408193598

Here is a writeup on the 2wd version - http://autospeed.com/cms/title_Wicked-Alto...97/article.html

There should be, we are trying to borrow some for the event.

Not a Porsche, but this car is full of nuts....

...it also has way more 'Stance'

Hi People,

The H.R.C.'s Box of transponders were stolen from the boot of my Dad's car last night, there were 34 of them at a value of $32000.

These are worth nothing to who ever has stolen them as we can pickup when they are used and hunt them down.

The following transponders were stolen:

9541759 9866108 9504842 8706553 9588578 9489436 9699423 9540070 8844275 9358517 9547704 9390990 9666382 9248518 9531014 9684372 8753044 9642557 8925894 8744026 9426496 8753415 9681404 9726844 9720221 9490876 9496124 9399491 8686405 9808521 9376730 9339173 9611299 9628566

They look like this and are an AMB TranX 260:

There were stolen from a BMW X3 parked outside the Lido Theater at 427 Manukau Road, Epsom. Most other cars in the area were broken into and had smashed windows.

They also stole a bag of rubbish but we are not to worried about that.

I have put on 20kg in the last few months so its time to get back into it, starting today My Cycle is:

Monday - Do 100-200m sprints and suicides. Also sprint up Hills.

Tuesday - Weights

Wednesday - 5km Run

Thursday - Weights

Friday - Sprints, also play at the kiddies playground on the monkey bars ect

Saturday - Do a trackday or take the day off to work on the car

Sunday - Do Lengths at the pool and weights afterwards

This routine stops me from massing up to much but also kills my weight realllly quick.

as always, awesome work.

A bit OT but do you find people wanting to buy stuff on VWVortex from New Zealanders? I wouldn't mind shifting my sets of RS001 and RS003's.

I've got an assortment of RS's if your keen. Swap for your style 5's

Yeah, but have you got anything sealing the rear fire wall from the boot?

its just the firewall with a bit of tape covering the holes.

This is what I have got.

There are only 3 things it can be....Spark, fuel and compression. I would turn it over with a spark plug on the block and make sure it sparks. Then take the hose off the fuel rail and turn it over and see if fuel sprays all over the place (put it in a bottle if you don't enjoy this), if both of those check out put a compression gauge on each cylinder to see if it has compression.

Other than that you could keep taking wild stabs in the dark

Can you get a scope on it?

Is it still running variable valve timing on both sides and factory cam sensors?

What do you mean by putting a scope on it?

It is still running variable valve timing on both sides with factory cam sensors. The ECU shows the cams as adjusting within tolerances so I don't think they are having any issues.

From what I can research on the web the engine should not work at all with this error so it baffles me why its only at a particular RPM it occurs. Will have to give Gavin a call on Monday and see if he can shed any light on it.

If its worth noting there are only 4 sensors:

-1 off the top of the block

-1 off the front of the crankshaft

-2 for the vanos

I'm guessing its either the one of the top or the crank that's gone faulty.

So my autronic SM4 is giving the following Error at just under 4500rpm and it cutting ignition when it hits ~4480rpm:

Sync(Cam or reference) I/P sensor fault detected.

Reason.

Sync I/P which is used to sync engine to 720 degree cycle is missing or has extra pulses. If not a mult-coil engine, engine will still run with out this signal.

Mult-coil engine will not run with this error.

Here is pic of the logger, you will see it sometimes will rev past 4500 fine, then when you go back under and up again it wont go past 4500. After a bit of playing round it seemed if I tapped the accelerator around 4400 it would rev past 4500 fine. I can't get it to rev past 4500 while driving around, only when revving in neutral or changing down to a gear that gives over 4500rpm.

Is this a faulty sensor or can I change the fault tolerances so it doesn't put a limiter at 4500rpm

Update:

Have been working hard of the last few weeks to remove 2 Seconds or more off the lap time.

-First I have given the car a clean so it looks faster

-Next I Added a more efficiant rear wing that I will run with very little angle

-I have bought a set of heavyier Eibach Springs to trial

-I have bought solid gearbox mounts as the standard ones have heaps of play

-I am going to mount the fuel tank 20cm closer to the rear axle so the car is not so susceptible to fuel load changes

-I am going to mount the front splitter 1cm lower so the gap below the car is 10% less

-I am going to reduce the play in the shifter

-I have some new NZV8 Slicks lined up for a great price as can't bring myself to spend $3000 on a set of Michelin's The current ones have had about 50 heat cycles now

-I am going to get a adjustable front anti roll bar as the current one keeps hitting the sump and causing a whole lot of secondary problems

-I also found that the right hand side had 2 more degrees camber than the left, I have since reduced ir to match the left and I suspect this is will resolve the problem with the front right always locking up before the left

-I am yet to do a wheel alignment so will do that before the next outing

-After doing the 1:13's I found the front right was an inch lower than the front left so have since corrected it

After doing all this I hope to get into the low 11's at Hampton, otherwise I will probably not enter the BMW series

Last but not least, thanks to Ray at HellBM for the boot.

Needing a heavier rear anti roll bar for the e30, already have a standard 12mm one so anything bigger will do.

only 500hp would have thought they would be getting 600+ by now.

How close are the strut towers to the bonnet??

I think there is about .5 to 10mm of clearance.

I had to wind the suspension up about an finger width from where it is in the pics as it was rubbing on the wheel arch but I took it for a drive yesterday and managed a new PB of 1:13.9 then 1:13.6 then 1:13.5. There is still more in it but I was surprised how late I can brake on the front straight, before I was braking at the start finish line but now I am braking just after the start lights which is at about the 125m mark once I get my foot on the pedal, With bigger balls or if I had to pass under brakes In a race I could probably do the 100m mark. Also I used to brake just before the crest of the Hairpin but now I am braking on the other side going down into it.

The car is so easy to drive and I am really looking forward to entering the BMW series at Hampton, it will be nice to see what lines other people are taking and reduce my lap times a bit more. I also told myself if I get into the 1:13's I have to buy new slicks in order to try be on the front of the grid as the current ones have had about 30 heat cycles which makes them about 2 seconds slower than new, they also have a million flat spots from previous testing gone wrong

Thank for a great day

cars with transponders will the time be posted on mylaps ?

http://www.mylaps.com/results/showrun.jsp?id=1991533

Thanks to all those that came today, was a great day with not to much rain.

Thanks to Heath for being the eyes of turn 2

For those that I took round I was doing 1:18's but once most people had left I went out and tried to set a new PB, I managed to get a 1:13.5 which is near enough to what I was aiming for. All I need is a new set of slicks and I should be in the 1:11's in no time Link to mylaps

I went today, tbh I preferred the selection of cars NZFMR. Cant wait till the BMW festival.

They have tap and die sets, though i'm not sure if they would have the correct size.

nononononono, you could pick one up from supercheap or repco on the way down as they open at 8:30?

Got the front turrets raised and welded up all the cracks in the front chassis rail, now it doesn't creek and is so much more responsive in the steering and feel. Front guards have also been flared. Also supplied a pic of my $15 intake mod that added 20hp

edit - forgot to mention the reason its way nicer to drive is its no longer sitting on the front bump stops.... should be a bit quicker now that it has working front shocks

picked up the e30 from Autocolour European, the turrets look soooo pretty I will update the project thread tomorrow.

These sort of people turn up to track days and last about 2-5 laps before something is smoking / on fire or they have crashed.

true story

This, have seen so many clowns go off the end of the front straight due to boiling the brakes in the 2nd or 3rd lap of the day.