hybrid

Actually, here is how the whole system works I'm gonna give mine a good going over as well now that I know how it works properly. hope this helps (attached) 60087943_BMW_E39_Integrated_automatic_heating_and_air_conditioning.pdf

I have this issue too. I think its something to do with the seal on the recirc flap getting old. Its so annoying and one of my pet hates in any car. He'll even my e30 works better than the 5 series. Im yet to do something about it sorry so can't help. The flap is controlled by the climate control module over MBUS and it has its own stepped motor.

Happy birthday

I love how they're called luxury in this country. These days they're the standard. And most other cars are shitty made and feel cheap.

Just do what I did and make one out of billet. Here is what I did. http://www.bminfo.co.nz/?page_id=67 Make sure you have the whole lot balanced together afterwards.

The info on the occupancy sensors and airbag is not quite right above. If you dont have any one in the passenger seat and have a broken occupancy sensor. The air bag WILL go off. The sensor is there to tell the car that there is no one in the seat so dont fire the airbag in a crash. It help cut the repair bill down. When you think about it, why would the airbag system rely on a occupancy sensor that has the potential to wear out and is a big failure point? All doing the bypass does is make it so both airbags will fire in an acciedent. The information on dont cut corners is right however, it really should be replaced else you could void your insurance.

just phone him 021 2 hell bm

Finally a proper review! One really worth watching. 23mins Enjoy

enjoy

get-a-car-finished! and Happy Birthday man ...

Here you go http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....mp;#entry447778

Lol sport the pit crew trying to hide the headers from the camera.

exxxxceeeellent ....

ahh yeah international bandwidth is pretty slow .. when you get home its a lot better

explain ?

different firing order .. still a v8

You guys will probably notice its a lot zippier too. No more bandwidth limitation.

Enjoy

You talking about his or mine? Mine is already certed for the stock break line mods. These pictures don't show the final work. Its 1000 times more tidy.

Sweet all sorted! I must say TBH it was a pain in the ass re-routing the brake lines for it. Nothing to bad however it did take a mate of mine a few days to get it perfect including removing the horrible pre face lift bias distro valve and buying all the tools to do so etc.

cheers!

On an S50 I needed to move mine over 40mm towards the side of the car .. Im not sure of yours I dont think you have the problem with the plenium as I did. Your UK MK2 1.3 golf booster will most likely be enough. This is what I did. Used two stainless plates infront and behind the firewall for the booster and MC setup. (from here) http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....24294&st=75 more on the painting of here http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....st&p=325193

Nice man! .. feels great when you get the engine finally rested and in place aye! Let me know if you need the firewall relocation plates for the booster.

You know 20 years a go I use to be one of those cap backwards fellas .. (it was all about basketball back then not dubstep) I remember reading those articles you wrote a few years later when I got into cars and dreaming of owning something half way decent than my 1980's poo brown mazda that I chopped the springs on. I was mates with Randle Edgell's daughter .. and I remember being around the dinner table one time talking to Randle when I was 17 asking him what mods I should do to my poo brown mazda to make it go faster. You could imagine what was going through his head haha. The guy had just finished prepping half of the WRC cars for the NZ round and heres me asking how to make a 1.5 4cylinder sewing machine engine to go faster. I guess we were all there at one point.

I wish it were that simple but its not. The housing has several caverties .. its not a simple temp oil switch system. Ultimately when the thermostat is open in only allows 'some' oil through to the cooler... not all. The problem comes when you come along and replace the oil cooler or lines with a greater oil volume. The pressure going into the line simply doesnt have enough pressure to push the oil through them as it takes the path of least resistance back into the sump. I have a spare one and have done quite a bit of testing on it opening and closing the thermostat using boiling water and having some interesting results that confirm this. There is also and over pressure dump valve that sits in the bottom of the oil filter reservoir. Here is a link that confirms what I found. http://store.bimmerworld.com/e36e46-oil-co...valve-p980.aspx Here is datalogging output I have done/developed also that backs up the claim (its also not a general low / high oil pressure issue as I have another graph tracking pressure) Note: the Oil sensor is post cooler and I have replaced the whole housing with a new one only to have the exact some data / temp problems. Its not a thermostat / blocked lines or airlock issue. this was out when I was testing my new brakes .. hence the Throttle / RPM spikes (RPM is on its own axis and doing 7k spikes ). which quickly raises the oil temp. After a normal 100kph drive it falls, but remains over temp. (above 100c) Should be seeing around 80-90c If you run a greater volume oil cooler and lines on one of these housing types (s50/s54 housing) the only way around it for true track temp control is a true bypass 'plug which blocks it and forces all the oil down into the cooler. If you use the car on the road in winter, you really need an external oil thermostat, else your oil never gets up to temp.