MLM

All installed. Went together without any problems beyond access to a few nuts which was tight, but i knew this would be the case. Clearance to the steering column is ample with no risk of hitting, may even be better than factory. Underneath everthing tucks up nice and tidy. Sound wise its louder but its hard to tell how loud with it reverberating in a garage. I will see how loud this works out to be when i drive it. At idle the note is low and bassy but when revved has a raspy quality to it. Again will see how it settles down as im not worried about the tone of the exhaust provided its not overly loud and performs well. Almost time to put it on its wheels and see if all this effort amounted to anything besides alot of fun in the process.

I suspect they have full control of the clutch so that depending on driving style, pootling along vs full power shifts, they can modulate gearbox loading in combination with ignition cut or retardation. Throttle blip could possibly be done by taking control of the idle stepper though may be limited in flow, an electronic TB or an external arangement which effectivly shortened the throttle cable effective length opening the throttle.

Sure, would be an interesting challenge.

Sounds interesting! Have been playing with the idea of a H -> sequential pattern shifter (pull for up push for down change) as a design challenge for myself. Ive seen many different options for cable etc but all look bulky ugly things. Converting from there to a actuated shift wouldnt be a huge leap and could safe guard againt incorrect gear selection. Lets us know how you go.

Yes it does does though its not its main feature, or rather they also offer an out right thermal coating in black. Thanks for the pic, I managed to get about 15mm minimum clearance to the steering with equal lengths hence the loopy shape.

Pro coat did the headers with their "cermachrome" coating. I was going to go looking for a picture of your headers at some point to see how you dodged around the steering column. As for expansion joints there are none, the header is all welded one piece.

Had the headers coated this week. Looks nice even and will keep away corrosion. Should help out thermally too. Hanging out now to get this all fitted and the car started. Should sound a bit different with the airbox and exhaust.

I powder coated my wheels. see here http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....c=26638&hl= Excellent result and finish and not too bad dollar wise either from memory. Prices are in the tread somewhere. If powder coating keep the bolt face and bolt holes clean with tape/corks otherwise you will need to clean them afterwards to avoid wheels loosening as the powdercoat softens from heat and will creep. Cost wise you can paint is cheapest but the cured finish of powder will last longer than most diy paint ups.

Headers finish welded. Just need coating now. Rest of system finished and painted. Building headers was quite a challenge and not somthing im going to rush into again. Hope its worth it.

RIP, one genuine guy I had the pleasure of meeting at the events he arranged for us. You will be missed

I would avoid doing that. Bog has a high shrinkage rate which may distort the mold. Add a few layers of glass to the gel coat first before. Resin infusion is a good method but also look at vaccum consolidation which i did. A little less cosumable/equipment intensive and keeps the fibre to resin ratio acceptable.

Awesome stuff, hope you have fun giving it a go. I took a few practice runs till i got it right. Pre prepare everything and lay it all out before you start and its becomes much easier. Happy to help where I can.

Somthing like this looks cool imo. http://www.motorsport-sales.com/index.php?...5e0697ff51f6054 Just imagine the matching red rims

http://www.mulfordengineering.com/contact-us.php Engineering plactics on the North shore too. PSP plastics http://www.psp.co.nz/plastic-sheets PP maybe easier to source

I have done carbon work before (http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index.php?showtopic=28044&st=120) at the hobby level not professional. It came out well though wouldn’t withstand close scrutinizing a cosmetic part requires as some tight corners suffered some cloudiness. Looking at your part the complex area seems to be the central depressions which look like they locate another part? If so any defects in this area would be hidden. I could give this a go for you, or the best place ive found to buy resins etc is NZ fibreglass.

If you were to do it yourself in carbon i would budget about $400 for the resins and products required to make a mold using your original as a buck. Wouldnt be too difficult and would make a good introductory part if you wanted to make more items. For the CNC from plastic you could get the price down to about $450 using overseas vendors, The other pricing would drop also (possibly half) but how much i couldnt tell you without getting a quote.

FDM of this size would be in the $1500+ in NZ. Fdm is weak and would require alot of finishing SLA would be more like $2000+ in NZ. Stronger part and less finishing required. CAD models required for both Silicon mold with RIM could use the original part and replicate the part well. Unsure of price but expect $1500+ Carbon fibre using the original part could be approx $1000-1500 for wet lay up more for prepreg. Labour intensive. I have worked with carbon before and would suggest this if you spending the money for a replacement part it might as well look special. CNC from ABS/PP would at a guess be $800 from overseas. 11 day delivery from order. I can do design and arrange manufacture if required. PM me for further info. Edit:Note pricing only for manufacture design work additional.

Did you get anywhere with the Nissan pistons? I see some red sock filters there as well, looks interesting...

And some gangnam style

Cool project. I re did my wheel and it came out really well for a complete novice. I used thread i found at Spotlight which matched the colours. From memory it was upholstery thread which is thicker. All up it cost me $25 to do using leather bought on trademe and is still going strong without getting loose or slipping even without using glue 3 years on. Post lots of pics of how you go about it. Looking forward to the results

Will do, Thanks.

True, they shouldnt be detrimantal though untill I can save up for cams and all the other bits and pieces that could go along with them.

Finally an afternoon in the garage. Tacked and ready for final welding. By far the biggest challenge to date!

6:38 ohhh so thats what a tank slapper is....

Hi Peter, No updates just yet, things have been busy as i am now engaged and have just bought a house so priorities have been elsewhere for a while. The project is still going though. I have driven it with the new air box and it goes well. The exhaust manifold is turning out far harder than i anticipated but i think I have got a good arrangement now. Trying to pack in equall lengths into the space is a challenge. I hope to progress this soon with updates. Your project sounds like it will be awesome, access to wtcc and etcc parts and hopefully some advice will be a huge help to yourself. Post up your progress. It will be great to have some more international input.