_ethrty-Andy_

dont know of anyone in welly that knows more about E30 suspension than here. and regardless, more than one persons opinion/experience is always useful, especially as a generic suspension shop may not have the experience of E30 specific setups

if you can have it picked up then im more than willing to pack it up for you so it can be shipped. its just a bit tricky to take an E30 gaurd somewhere to have it shipped though, as i only have a bike, and rarely have the services of the family wagon.

Hey. Got another few questions for you! I want to make sure everything is 100% taken into consideration till its all set up so few more questions. one: we all know the difference between the two struts are the tube (vertical) part of it being either 45mm or 51mm. I need to know if there are ANY other differences between them Particulaily interested in whether the wheels sit any further out in the gaurds between the two (would assume you could tell by measuring the position of the hub in relation to the bottom ball joint?) two: using M3 cabs, how much further forward to the wheels sit? has anyone actually measured? im sure i would be able to find out the degree increase on the net somewhere (i have done before), but havent seen the change in wheel placment in a straight line forward mentioned anywhere (e: i should probably say why i ask... im running slightly oversize tyres, and dont want to remove the plastic plates infront of the wheels the plastic brake air ducts go to if it can help it as they are, more than anything, protecting my two air compressors from getting wet, and so ill have to relocate them if they need to be taken off. i doubt they actually have any worthwhile effect to brake cooling) three: what would you all recommend for toe settings? I know the theory of what toe does to a car, but havent had the chance to play around with it and see what it does in a real life situation. Should i use the factory recommendations for toe despite the change in both caster and camber up front or..?

was someone doing a GB on them a few months ago on them. In for round 2 if the seller wants to do another GB

have always thought it would be tits to make an E30 offroader, but the rear suspension setup is really not designed for liftkits and the like. Never the less it never stops those US boys and thier torquey super-etas! thread here R3v edit: screwed up img tags also requested hi-res photos so if anyone wants them PM me and ill send when i get them

^ first point is correct, but because the cars have to have some japanese parts in them by japanese law, its these parts which are lower quality because they dont need to be the same quality as thier german replacements, and also to make up for the loss of economies of scale

was told by our mechanic. and cbf looking in depth right now for verification on the net, but first search result on google here; read the first three paragraphs http://www.pngcars.com/index.php?option=co...ws&Itemid=2 im sure a search yourself will bring something up if your interested

did you really just call the GT-R a ricer? lol cars look great! you need pics of your entire collection for bragging rights!

yep a nice SA version. id take a look at at for sure

not sure if BMW is included, but sometimes cars made for the JDM are built using lesser quality parts, as cars are removed from japanese roads once they hit 8 years old iirc, and therefore the cars are usually built to have a usefull life of 8 years, as opposed to 20+ elsewhere in the world.

latemodel=facelift. any post 88 engine will be fine. re diff, is the car auto or manual as it sits now? fuel economy will decrease assuming the enigne is the only thing you change as it will rev at the same speed as the B20, and has an extra .5L displacement to fill with gas.. you dont NEED it to do the conversion, but its recommended

i wish it was lmao +1 though it sounds like money is going to be needed to be spent on this engine, and with a few B25s on here and on TM for around the 500 mark, it makes sence to upgrade. Someone in the race series might be interested in the B20 for spares as well which further offsets the cost

^PMd

M20B25 should be an easy as swap then. just bolt, plug, or hose clamp everything in

what year is the engine with the stuffed bearings?

good luck..

have said that. They were fitted to an E30 and driven on prior to me, and were bolted to my car and saw no interference with the caliper.. also why would they make schnitzer reps in E30 fitment if they required spacers..

^ wheres the E30? Lol @ mindless banter on bimmerforums e: or did you mean the E30 next to the widebody?

$ for rear Euro filler plate if its still legit + clips/nuts?

Schnitzers Sold. huh?

Dig the banzai's.. but not sure if your car pulls them off because of the kit though imo. saw them on trademe and thought they would look awesome on an E30

yep mines a jap import and place of origin is germany. Through no fault of thier own, CarJam isnt 100% accurate on finer details like that, because it all depends on what the importer writes on the paperwork

quoted me $900 to move a pair of immobile E30s to me in welly from auckland, so pricing seems pretty good. Didnt follow through though as i decided i have enough on my plate as it is

DIY. just mask the stuff off you dont want to paint. done

K-Sports +17" tyres Sold. make an offer on other parts if you want them. they must go