Ahmedsinc

As title says, drivers side please (if it makes any difference). TardMe has drawn a blank. Auckland but happy to cover postage costs Chur!

Minor update - cam sensor replacement appears to have been a success. No reported stalls in + / - 600km driving. Still need to come up with a decent DIY smoke test to isolate this fecking vacuum leak if anyone can help. Chur!

Did you rotate the injectors 180* to have the nozzles pointing in the right direction, thereby fouling the connectors against the intake manifold? Or just left them in the same orientation as the M50 ones? Apologies for the thread jack, Andy

Need to make your own vanos blanking plate as the TU head has a slightly different cutout for the vanos unit. Stock blanking plates leave a tiny gap on the exhaust side of the TU head at roughly 7 o'clock. Took me about 60 minutes to knock one out by hand using a hacksaw & file and a flat bit of 5mm junk ali. Not pretty but it worked

Nope.

Made time to plug in the laptop and see what INPA could find tonight. 65, 227 & 228 were in the memory. 227 & 228 are my deviation rich from the O2 sensors, and 65 tells me the inlet cam sensor is on the fritz. No major surprise as the exhaust sensor went bad a few months back too. Fingers crossed I can make the time to fit the spare used sensor I have on Saturday, will add a new genuine one to the Pelican shopping cart asap. Still need to come up with a decent DIY smoke test. Fault codes from the vacuum leak annoy me. Would be nice to drive the car without the check engine light as a permanent feature on the dash cluster!

I have had a couple people say cam and / or crank sensors. Hopefully I'll get enough time on my one day off this week to have another look via INPA and see if there are any new codes. Wifey has also reported engine stuttering before stalling, but not every time. Apparently this has been happening for a couple weeks now, but didn't remember to tell me when I asked how the car was behaving. Sigh

Would the vacuum leak be a major contributor to the stall issue? Am still bemused by the infrequent nature of the stalls, it's not every time the car pulls away from a stop, and it can go a few days running without any problem at all. Both halves of the intake boot have been replaced with good used items; the two main hoses from the oil separator have been replaced; afm has been replaced, and every rubber bung has been renewed as well. Rocker gasket weeps a tiny bit of oil straight onto the exhaust manifold shield so will be getting redone soon. Only intake / vacuum bits that haven't been replaced yet are o-rings / gaskets, the flexi hose that runs from the oil separator, the oil separator itself, and the 'sucking jet pump' & its 2 associated hoses. Gonna have to come up with a DIY solution for the smoke test, 12 hour shifts & a crazy amount of overtime has been destroying my chances of taking it to a shop! New fuel filter coming as well, I suspect the original item is still in the car now - 155,000km & 14 years later. Woohoo for jap imports

Restarts fine. Feels just the same as stalling a manual. Go to put your foot down when pulling away and it just cuts out. No rough running or anything to indicate it's about to poop itself. No check engine light either, which I find odd. Vacuum leak proving difficult to isolate. Have done all the usual suspects, about to redo valve cover as I used the gasket from the project engine instead of a brand new one. Fault codes are O2 sensors deviating rich, might yet be the sensors. Have got a new disa gasket coming to be safe, hoping it's not the manifold / secondary air rail / injector gaskets as they're a royal pain to do.

So wifeys 530i has thrown a new curveball. Starts fine, idle is a tiny bit rough when cold (known vacuum leak which I'm still slowly eliminating as time allows) but it has an intermittent stall from standstill when at operating temp. Does not stall when cold. Scanning with INPA showed a misfire fault on cylinder 1 but no other codes. Have replaced the plugs with new Bosch ones (old ones were originals I think, two of the ceramic insulators fractured when removed and all 6 slugs were unbelievably filthy) but no other parts replaced as yet. Scratching my head a bit over this, am not sure it's a fuel delivery issue as the condition only occurs when hot, but I'm certainly no expert. What are the symptoms of a dodgy coil pack / packs? Will be placing an order with Pelican shortly for new rocker gasket, fuel filter etc as I'm fairly sure none of the usual service items have ever been replaced. Have had a go at googling the problem but the threads are annoyingly vague. Learned suggestions appreciated - thanks *Edit - spelling

At how many l/100?? And here's me being pleased that the 5er is finally (just) under 11l/100. Bring on the V12!!

We all make errors in judgement, sometimes it's better not to listen to a mates advice. FS post removed. Apologies for any offence caused

Fixed the f***ing busted front passenger window motor. The plastic tabs that hold the output cog to the worm drive wheel had disintegrated - three hours and three screws later it works again

Bit of a long shot there mate! Though I do recall a member here replacing his with a UUC kit a while back.... maybe a thread search will turn up the owner? Might still have the old one, ya never know!

Keen to see the S62 headers dude, they would have made a nice wee difference to the rear wheel power too!

Good to know. I've grabbed a tube of the ultra grey to be 100% safe, but what's the difference between the rtv grades? I understand that the acetic acid used in some rtvs will erode the gasket, but what's the distinction between the silicones that don't have acetic as a curing agent? I figured the learning curve would be steep given this is my first attempt at a job like this, didn't think it would be this tricky though!

Just wondering - are you using the M60B30 DME or a B40 one? Reading through your build thread a while back I seem to recall you used the B30 DME? What are the chances that the 4l chip isn't compatible with the 3l ecu? Am scratching my head as to why two chips didn't work

I'm about 20 km west of Puke (only just north of the Bombays), not that far but bloody annoying to have to make the trip when you only need one thing! Picked up the ulta black from there, will probably have to go tomorrow. Was in a rush when I went the first time (late for a family gathering, screaming toddler and impatient wifey in car etc etc etc) These things are sent to try us I guess!

Gah! Got a tube of Ultra Black instead of Ultra Grey. Only after opening the packet do you see the bit where it says 'not suitable for head gaskets' Sigh Back to Pukekohe. Again

Have got some 16s from a 530i E39 for cheap if wanted Pm me if interested

FWIW the 3.5mm Falkens that were on the family wagon used to make the traction light flicker often. Replaced them at the start of the month and now the light only flashes when it's nearly at the point of no return. Perhaps the slightly smaller rolling diameter is enough to trick the wheel speed sensors into thinking one or both wheels are breaking loose? Could also be the different friction coefficient of the different patterns on the rear has a similar effect? My guess is the geriatric tyre on your front left will cause you more trouble with understeer due to being old & hard than anything else. Might pay to drive very softly til you get new ones!

Thanks for the response. It appears Permatex Ultra Grey is an acceptable substitute, Hondabond HT is DreiBond so hopefully the Honda dealership in Pukekohe will have some. NZ Gaskets are a bit of a drive from here, I ideally need the head back on by Monday so permatex / hondagoo look to be my options

Just an estimate of the gap between runner #6 & firewall should be the last bit of info I need. Would probably make my life infinitely easier if I could find a full set to borrow to use as a template. Reckon my chances of that are pretty slim though. Thumbs up Connor, thanks!

Fu**in legend! Thanks dude

Nearly ready to put the head back on the M54, reading through the Bentley manual tells me to apply 3Bond 1209 to the joints where the timing chain cover meets the block. Where can this sealant be acquired from? Is there anything else suitable that can be used in its place? Is it 100% necessary?