B.M.W Ltd

The buyer paying for the PPI dodged a bullet.... you should see the rest of the list.... and someone on here could end up buying it

All good then..

Correct... you still trying to be the local dick here ??

No not Amber.... was the owners wife & child.

Sorry Josh... that's wrong. There are witness marks on the bolts and other items. I'm too wise to not see this BTW... this is the front cross member on a E46 not the rear....look a little closer and you might see the witness marks and location

I shuddered

The owner told me he knows nothing. I don't know and I won't disclose what I do know unless someone misrepresents it or tries to take advantage of someone. Yes we did fix it. I'm seeing far too much of this sort of sh*t lately... DIY maybe or dodgy workshops with untrained grease monkies... unlike trained technicians. If the owner or the purchaser want's to comment.. that's fine... I'm not going there...yet

Also a reason for licensing the Industry too, establishments and technicians

I might add. Everyone is capable of making mistakes...sh*t can and does happen. We all strive in the industry to prevent this sort of thing happening. Injury or death from this negligence would put you before the courts.

A lady with a young child drove this car over the harbour bridge & motorway into our workshop yesterday for me to do a pre-purchase inspection. One subframe bolt was completely missing and the other 3 were only secure by 2-3 threads. I have no idea who worked on it and nor does the present owner.

Call me

What year is the car ? and do you know if it does have the smart system ?

Glad you listened to the options I gave you. Cam should give you the right answers.

With ?

http://www.botanymotorworx.co.nz/ We use a more professional scanner

I can check it Friday and work from there. But it will require more time for a fix.... depends on what fault codes are present. Code 23 means f**k all to me

I'd be using a proper scanner first before going through all the rigmarole youv'e gone through. ^^^^ up there

Was it just a faulty coil ?

If you are replacing the thrust arm, you could try fitting the lock nut back on the ball joint, but not tight. Load up the tool and hit the nut with a drift & hammer or hit the ball joint in the thrust arm to shock it's release

Seal size & material are probably more the cause. A 6mm valve stem doesn't give a lot of area for sealing , however, other manufacturers seem to get it right

These tools often don't push squarely on the taper and the base quite often doesn't support the steel seat base correctly. This caused the tool to press slightly side ways and not break the taper and all you'll end up doing is bending the tool

Show me a picture of what you are using and how you are using it. You should not be pressing the steel insert out of the aluminium housing. The tool should be pressing the ball joint taper out of the insert. Some tools sold will not do what the manufacturers say they will. Googling what' s available just proved that to me, even on other BMW sites

There are not many "right" tools out there. You don't going hitting sh*t out of it with a hammer. You'll end up damaging or cracking the carrier. We use a specific factory tool.

All valvetronic motors can give valve stem seal problems.. 6's & 8's too. On a ratio though, the 4's are more problematic