my_e36

So one can get a shock out of the bill (either way).

At least they can source the parts reasonably easy. In NZ, no CSL VIN + ownership papers, no CSL parts. (so I've been told)

A reset tool will come in handy (Trademe/eBay/Peake Research), or drop by to a dealer/good BMW garage for a reset. They might charge you though.

I mean see how good the condition of the oil. If they look fresh, all good. If they are dark, do a service anyway. There are different view on how the lights are count downed. On mine from 5 green to 1 green takes about 12000km, some reckons it goes down quicker if you drive the car hard. If it says "INSPECTION" + yellow and red, that means a inspection is due. They goes from OIL SERVICE -> Insepction 1 -> OIL SERVICE -> Inspection 2 -> OIL SERVICE -> Inspection 1 again.... This is a simply list the turn up from a quick Google search... http://www.bimmerzone.com/inspection.htm Could find the proper one from BMW TIS if anyone need the info. Apart from that, there's a clock symbol as well. That's annual service for brake, coolant (every 3 yr for non-M, 2 year for M) and timing belt (4 years if there's one in your engine) and O2 sensor (where needed). The thing is, the clock countdown get reset everytime you disconnect the battery.

If you have all green, that means you don't need a service for a while. It goes down to 1 green then yellow and finally red. If you've just bought your car new from a car yard, they might have just reset it rather than actually servicing it. Check your oil to make sure. As for the beeps, it could be seatbelts. Does it beep if you put on seatbelt before you turn the keys?

There was a lawsuit in US against Slick50 on the effect of PTFE (part of what's in Slick50) to the engines that used it. PTFE is the stuff that they make non-stick pans and if my memory serves me right, they are actually fine metal flakes. Probably that's what contributed to the death of your Audi engine. I would avoid anything that ask you to "shake before use" or contain PTFE as ingredient. My Civic was dealer serviced (i know... too lazy to lift a spanner) 6 month/10k for the last 10 years. It's now almost 200k and engine is still feel strong as new. Never had any addictive in its life except for injector cleaner.

ta da~~

Why not consider an upgrade while you're at it? http://www.emotors.ca/Articles/77.aspx

Cheers for that... gotta be careful now... I'm on 70 points, 9 months to go for my first ticket to reach 2 years. Edit: typo

I've read somewhere else that says switching from dino to synthetic does no harm and it doesn't matter when in a cars life time you change it. I seem to recall Castrol is somehow related to BMW as many BMW garages have Castrol logo all over.

as topic... do they expire 2 year after they are in place (like how frequent flyer miles or FlyBuys points expires) or do they drop the points ONLY after 2 years of no more points deducted? (regardless of when your first points were deducted) I know they will drop the lot if you go over 100 & lose licence. But what if I don't? How & when do I get my points back? Thanks in advance!

Isn't that from one of those partner-swapping reality show?

20-25km per year. Mostly stuck in Auckland traffic!!

I thought LSD is only available on M3 or really early (pre-93 or something) non-M3?

If you want the hidden one, what about the Beltronics RX75? Seems highly rated. Seen a Lambo, an Aston DB9 and e60 M5 has them plus a laser jammer.

I suppose you've trying rocking the steering a bit while trying to turn the key right?

Correct me if I am wrong... 94' 540i should be a e34, which has a ZF A5S 560Z gear box. They use "lifetime" fluid, that's why there's no dip-stick. Proper fluid to use should be.... Shell LA 2634 if your gear box housing has a black plate or Esso LT 71 141 if your gear box housing has a green plate

e90 330i, It was so boring, probably Team McM rep was with me blabbling along, and it's a brand new (delivery Ks on the clock). I felt the steering wheel is disconnected from the front wheels. Everytime I try to indicate, I got the cruise control stick. iDrive drove me nuts especially the SatNav part of it. Very smooth engine though.

Cost of running a BMW can be a bit more than Japs. My 2.5l 323i cost twice as much on petrol cost to go the same distance compare to my Civic. If something break and need fixing, price of parts can suprise you either way depending on what's broken, but if you are handy with spanners, a lot of people here can give you advise. I was lead to think e36's 4 cyclinder is a bit under-powered for the size of the car, so if I am to buy I'll buy a 6-cyclinder e36 if possible. You should also allow a few hunders dollars for some basic serviceing/styling after you buy your car. Oil change and the likes, alarm, tints, etc... My 2 cents. Finally, don't forget the insurance!

I don't think doubling or tripling the wattage will make the headlight twice/3x as bright. The beam certainly won't go 2x/3x as far. If you just want the colour, get the plain 55W artic white from Repco. I said that before, Philips, GE & Osram are the only OEM approved brand as replacement bulbs. These brands make some pretty decent bulbs, high brightness (at 55W) or white colour. I reckon they are the safest choice.

They were 4" pre-FL and 5.25" post-FL. Changeover is around 1996.

This is a good thread to read on this topic... http://www.bimmersport.co.nz/forums/index....92&hl=alarm

This much trouble to change an air filter. At least the car itself to fast enough to make up the time.

Remove C-piller trims first, remove rear seat trims on the side if Coupe. Fold down rear seats and unfasten 4 clips at the front where it join the rear seat when the seats are up. Then pull the finisher downwards. Good luck. Edited for typo.

Sorry for the cr*p pix as I was chasing down the street to get this... It's just too good to miss!