my_e36

My 323i only had 205/55/16 fitted all round (I changed down from 225/50/16) because of a tyres special back then. (It's still within BMW spec) Anyway, 235 is fairly wide. Are you sure it's not gonna rub with the 18s?

Repco can get them in for you. Few other smaller parts places do too. I bought 2 off e-Bay back then and shared one with a mate, landed in NZ for around NZ$80 each.

Yes, it's below the rear seat for Coupe and Convertibles. Not 100% for Sedan & Touring though... Have a list of option code if anyone need to decode the build sheet from under the seat.

Hope these can help... Arrow is pointing at where the engine number should be. plus Ways to decypher a 2-line or 3-line engine data field

Many later model cars (BMW or not) have ellipsoidal headlamps where it can produce projecter light pattern & cut-off. Evidently by having a look at the projection your headlight makes when skining on a wall. Ellipsoidal headlamp have a clean cut off line with a bit of halo/rainbow on edge of the cut-off. After you've installed HID, the cut-off will be blurred because the actual length of the bulb that produce light is of different length (and geometry). Halogen bulb only give out light on the filament, HID bulbs have (almost) the whole length of the bulb giving out light. Plus the fact that any HID bulb that is not D2S or D2R fitment has re-engineered base to make them fit on what they say it would, which could make the glaring worse. Enough technicalities, aftermarket HID is illegal on NZ road because it doesn't have self-leveling and headlmp washing. Info from LTNZ (ex-LTSA) paper "Get your lights right". I thought HID runs lower wattage then halogen? They do both.

Nice car. Seems it has the factory premium sound package installed (2 speakers on the door card + 1 in the kick panel). Some aftermarket 3-way splits will make the sound awesome.

2. Fuel gauge: In e36, the wire for the sensor can come off inside the fuel tank OR sensor itself get damaged when people constantly trying to top up the fuel tank after the fuel gun has clicked. Not sure if this could be similar in your case though.

It's a car that is affordable with super-car rareness.

Those wheels are nice. But I can't imagine the cost or the difficulty in getting the tyres though.

I thought the light switch has a "middle" position for door operated. Would that be it?

I presume you are not talking about proper HID system here. (with ballast and the works) H1, H4, H5 represent the shape of the bulb and its base and filament geometry, it has nothing to do with its rating and colour. Those $20 Trademe bulbs are not good. You should avoid anything with blue glass darker then sky blue on the bulb, which is merely blue coating on a normal bulb to acheive the white colour. Not to mention the ridiculous blue tint in your headlight during the day when the headlight is not on. If you want something half decent, you can try Narva Artic Blue or its equivalent from Hella. You can also get Philips and Osram from these people (http://www.autobulbsdirect.co.uk/home.php) which has Internation free shipping. Remember, Hella, Philips and Osram bulbs are actually endorsed by BMW for replacement bulbs. Finally, please don't use TXT language. Edited for typo.

Signed. Whales are cool.

I think, to sum up, is to get the 98. I too can notice the extra power difference, that equates to using less right foot to get you going, meaning using less fuel.

I'd like a McLaren F1 road car.

BMW themselves have some really nice one. But I heard changing from the "T" bar to the straight ones require the gear stick itself (include the kidden part where it actually connected to the gearbox cable) to be changed or modified.

If you had successfully got the whole roundel off, you can see the paint work and two holes to plug the new one into. I suspect you've only taken the top part of the roundel off.

98' E36 323i (2.5 litre) -> 12.1 l/100 km 60-70% city in Auckland

Did you mean the light switch? It does light up when the key is in position I or II regardless of the lights are on or not. To remove the switch... 1. Remove the panel below the steering wheel 2. Remove the know (pull it straight out, it helps if you put double-sided celo-tape on the knob) 3. Remove the plastic nut that hold on to the switch 4. It pretty much drops off from the back.

For one of those wings, within speed limit, the only downforce that is going to make is its own weight.

Space is a bit tight, but should not be too bad. Which bulb is blown? For turn signal, you need to take the turn signal housing out (it just clips onto the headlight housing). For the rest, there's a plastic cover on the back. Take it off then you can see all the bulbs retaining clips and wires.

Enjoy!

You should see the amount of Porsche and Ferarri park on street in Mission Bay.

It looks like air-bags weren't deployed? Being a X5, shouldn't air-bags be everywhere? (6 or 8 standard?)

There's also Euro Collison Repairs in Glen Innes (near Auckland Uni Tamaki campus). They specialise in BMWs. Evans is also good, but they are quite busy, so could be a bit of wait.

First of all, welcome... Have you check if the maintenance is up to date? Air filter (K&N panel is great) and fuel filter Fresh diff fluid (Make sure you can open the fill hole before you drain the old stuff out!!) Spark plugs (You can also change valve cover gasket as preventative maintenance, since you need to remove spark plugs before you can change the gasket) Run a bottle of injector cleaner and on 98 Octane fuel helps a lot too! These all help response and fuel consumptions.