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smokenbaby

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Everything posted by smokenbaby

  1. take a close up pic of the back of it where momo is stamped into the alloy. That will keep the doubter quiet.
  2. '84 320i 2 door - $1200, minor dent front right gaurd. Couple little rust spots on body, Dead motor, Bilstiens front and rear. 285000 km's, From a wrecker. '85 320i motor - $375, recently rebuilt. New 2.5" exhaust, free grand total $1575 Just ordered new vacuum hoses for motor and Airflow Meter to Throttle Body sock from Shelly's 7x hoses in total $180 You would be suprised at the low cost of original parts from BMW compared to some other Makes. Honda are dear (used to be a honda mechanic)
  3. Has anybody got a pdf of a repair manual for an e30. Or do you know where one can be downloaded for free. Got lots of gremlins to sort on car. Either post a link here or email me kaelibo@astra.co.nz
  4. smokenbaby

    boot spoiler

    i'll jump in line for a Mtech 2 rear.
  5. removing springs does make you go faster - to a coffin that is. Got to be one of the stupidest things one can do to their car.Good on ya guys, and you wander why we need certs now. Can't be cause people do it right or fit proper lowering kits etc.
  6. Looking around for a Z3 Roadster rear end, complete diff, subframe, axles, trailing arms etc. Anyone got 1 or know of 1 around.
  7. its a manual sunroof , but i do have the bits froma E28 5 series i think they are all the same . $50 for motor and switches and wiring etc Sweet. I'll find out what the guts is and get back to you asap.
  8. How much for the sunroof motor, switches and everything to convert. PM me with prices please.
  9. did you over rev on down change or did you just rev to redline. If you over revved on down change then there is every likelyhood that the timing belt (m20 motor) or chain (e36 and newer) has jumped a tooth.
  10. quality is only as good as the mould. The more time spent cleaning, sanding, polishing and smoothing the better the finish. All this takes time so the price would have to represent this. I am not talking thousands but will be alittle more than the $300 mark like the E30.
  11. Rocker covers are a very complex thing to make. The have an internal baffle plate (for emmision - venting through to breather) and will need to be vac bagged and auto claved. This is going to cost a shite load. Plus I don't have an auto clave. Intake manifold covers are just a moulded and shaped cover that sits on top and over your existing manifold to hide casting marks, unsightly wires etc. They sit 5mm off the manifold so there is an air gap and bolt on using existing mounting points (be it throttle body to manifold and other non used but drilled and tapped holes.
  12. That's it, add some bling to the engine bay. Can also help stop heat hiting the bonnet.
  13. would need to have a manifold first so I can make a mould. It is something I would be keen to do but not till in a few months. E30 is easy as I have a spare manifold laying around.
  14. I will hazard a guess and say somewhere around the $300 mark. That will be Clear Coat finish with mounting kit and instructions. For E30 6 cylinders only.
  15. How many people would be interested in a Carbon Intake manifold cover. If there is enough SERIOUS demand I will be willing to make some.
  16. I can't believe they wanted you weld the seat belt mount holes up. That has got to be the biggest joke out. Did they not relise that if you were to sell the car later that the new owner might want to put a seat back in, then they would need seat belts. What a bunch of f**ken brain dead pricks. How did they get their warrent tickets. They were right that you needed to re-register the car as a 2 seater seem your backseat passengers would not be able to exit though.
  17. As far as I am concerned (worked at Honda Cars Wellington - and more recently asked a mechanic frind) you don't need any seats for a warrent or by law. The reason being is there are no safety standards on seats fitted to general road cars in NZ. The only requirement on seats is that if other than the standard factory fitted seats are replaced then you need to have cert or engineers report on mounts. Seat belts are the only requirement according to law as it is illegal to not wear one. So my answer is NO you don't need seats. Correct me if I am wrong please as it will be interesting to know for sure myself.
  18. Hawke Blues are good. they are a performance + pad you can get through Black Rallysport in Petone. Bit harsh on the disks but will last the distance. $ 280-350 Pagid are good as well from Simon Curry in Christchurch $350-400 Ferodo DS3000 from Neil Allport $375-420 - Don't use once they get to half thickness or the lining falls off and you have steel on steel. What ever pad you use you will want to use the same compand front and rear or else you will end up having bias problem front to rear as one end will heat up faster and end up cooking. There is no need to use %100 brake fluid as it boils just the same as Silverline from repco. I use silverline in my race car and it lasts the whole weekends racing with 1x bleed for qualifying on Sat morning and 1x bleed Sunday morning to do two racers.
  19. Strut bars are added to cars (racing, performance, road) to stop strut towers from moving around under all driving conditions. Any movement what so ever causes a change in suspension geometry which is undesireable to move car enthusist. Next time you put your car on the whell alignment machine get the guy to pull down on your front/rear cross member and watch the figures on the screen change from your desired settings. The same in true when the strut towers move. 2mm movement = angle change. The factory only spot welds the car together and after 20+ years of riding bumps, hitting pot holes etc the chassis becomes 'loose' and moves around alot easier. by adding strut bars or seam welding vital suspension pick up points this can be reduced or eliminated. Driving around town at 50 km/h will result in very little if any noticable difference but when you get up to speed on the open road and start driving the car around corners with out lifting off you will notice a difference. On the track the difference is alot more apparent. Carl is right on one hand by saying there is no difference but his statement should have been worded to say little difference at posted road speeds. Vent is also correct in saying that he noticed a difference but this would have been at speed while attacking a corner. The long and short of it is - strut bars help, but a cage tied to the suspension points is better. Fortunately a strut bar is cheap and easier to fit and there is no need for a cert or MANZ authority card. You can put it on or take it off when/where every you want. Adjustable bars are better as the slight preload helps put the towers back to standard positions but recommended to be added while on the wheel alignment machine. You will be stunned while watching the figures move while you preload it up. I would recommend a front bar for sure but back bar is not overly as important as the suspension loads are not transferred to the shock mount as much as the front. 95-99% of the load is found on the rear spring platforms and subframe. It is easy to make an adjustable bar for the front, max cost $100 for parts, cutting top plate, drilling and welding.
  20. And that is all lost when you lightn the flywheel, put bigger wheels on etc.
  21. Here is the low down, Can get them made for $600. That is the best price he will do them for. There is no discount for group buys as he said it still takes the same amount of time to make 1,2,3 sets. The manifold plates have to be profile cut and as this is an out source he can't get them cheaper. They will be designed so they join at the standard flanges just under the drivers seat. Have also been talking to an ex BMW race car engineer about the performance gain expected out of a set of extractors and he said it is not worth wasting the time and money on them as the standard manifold flows the same on the flow bench and on the dyno it makes the same power as a set of extractor. I have decided to run a stardard manifold and either a single pipe (like 325GRANT has on his cars - as seen at megameet) or a twin 2" system under the axles and into a twin entry/twin exit muffler with DTM styled tips. I can build this for half the cost of the extractors. I'll leave the decision of what you want to do up to you. You can contact Karl Robinson via MacLennen Automotive and decuss getting some extractor made. Hope this answers a few questions and gives you the info that you need. Up to you guys now.
  22. This is straight out of the latest copy of the Motorsport NZ Manual. pg2.pdf
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