smokenbaby

This will cause a nightmare to police the rules, It will make for a very very very slow teching proceedure at the track. The amount of veriable rules to accomodate the various classes, car spec etc would kill the class.Mazda pro7 is the only sanctioned series class that is growing stronger and in terms of members is one of the biggest on the MANZ register. It is one of the only classes that have embraced the “towards 2015” document from MANZ and is being requested from all North Island tracks as a support class. This has got EVRYTHING to do with the way the class is structured and the GREAT racing that is seen on the track. No other class in the country can hold it's head up as high as Mazda Pro7 Racing. They have kept the class to an affordable level while still introducing newer cars. The class has been around for 15 yrs and couldn't be stronger. We do still have problems when it comes to teching. Seem I am the Tech officer for the series I know firsthand what a nightmare it is having more than one spec car. Our series 1 cars are a well sorted car these days and I haven't been able to catch anybody out thus far. They have a single spec and only 1 rule book. The Pro7 Plus cars are a different story. There are basically 2 body types. Series 4 and Series 6. Now even though we can run either of the 2 body types, they still have to be from a set Chassis number range, NO special limited edition bodies can be used (Series 6 Sp - Bathurst spec body etc). There are 3 different spec motors they can run, all non turbo. ie. C10. ENGINE There are three engine options, being: Pro7 Plus single specification engine may be used in both Series 4 and Series 6 cars. Srs 4 original engine in accordance with these regulations for use solely in Srs 4 cars. Srs 6 original engine in accordance with these regulations for use in either Srs4 or Srs 6 cars. Pro7 Plus Single Specification Engine: The 13B rotary engine (Wankel type RE), In line two rotor enclosed in housings made from parts from Series 4 and Series 6 MAZDA RX7 model engines, minus turbo and associated plumbing and fittings, shall be used: Front and rear rotor housing – N3Y2 10S70 and, or N3Y2 10S80 and/or Part No. N3181B10A, and or Part No. N31810B50C, and may have the external sparkplug ledge removed. Centre housing- N3A1 10D00B. This housing may be drilled and tapped to accept mountings for Srs 4 car installation. Front end housing- N3F1 10C00. Rear end housing- - N3YC 10C50 Manual. All housing sealing faces may be reclaimed. All other internal parts can come from Srs 4 or Srs 6 engines. Oil Sump may come from either Srs 4 or Srs 6 engines. Inlet Manifold: Use of the original Series 4, or Series 6, or a composite manifold made up from Srs 4 upper section and Srs 6 lower section joined by a Control adapter Part number IMA-S4/6-1 is permitted. Nuts and Bolts may be locked. Srs 4 Original Engine: The 13B rotary engine (Wankel type RE), In line two rotor enclosed in housings, as fitted to Series (4) Four MAZDA RX7 Turbo FC3S models, minus turbo and associated plumbing and fittings, shall be used: Front & rear rotor housing- shall be Part No. N3181B10A, and or Part No. N31810B50C, and may have the external sparkplug ledge removed. Front-end housing shall be Part No. N31810C00B. Centre housing shall be Part No. N31810D00C. Rear end housings- shall be Part No. N31810C50A. End housings and centre housing sealing faces may be reclaimed. Nuts and Bolts may be locked. Srs 6 Original Engine; The 13B rotary engine (Wankel type RE), In line two rotor enclosed in housings, as fitted to Series (6) Six MAZDA RX7 Turbo FD3S models, minus turbo and associated plumbing and fittings, shall be used: Front and rear rotor housing – N3Y2 10S70 and, or N3Y2 10S80, and may have the external sparkplug ledge removed. Centre housing - N3A1 10D00B. This housing may be drilled and tapped to accept mountings for Srs 4 car installation. Front end housing - N3F1 10C00. Rear end housing - N3YC 10C50 Manual. All housing sealing faces may be reclaimed. Nuts and bolts may be locked. 10.5 Non Turbo 13B 6 port engines: are specifically prohibited. 10.6 Engine rotors: may be substituted with 13B rotors from any original Mazda, domestic production road cars, including RX8 rotors. Apex seal grooves may be machined larger for the sole purpose of allowing 3 mm apex seals to be fitted. 10.7 Stationary gears: may be substituted with 13B stationary gears from any original Mazda, domestic production road cars, including Mazda RX8 stationary gears. Stationary gears may be modified to allow the fitting of needle bearings from other any original Mazda, domestic 13B production road cars. 10.8 Counterweights: may be from any original Mazda, domestic production road cars. 10.9 Eccentric shafts: shall be original, the oil galleries may be modified, and the oil temperature control valve may be removed or modified, the ball control valves may be modified to increase he rotor oil feed. Competition shafts are not permitted and excessive removal of material when balancing is also not permitted. Rotor apex seals shall not be ceramic but otherwise are free. Side seals, corner seals & springs are free. Balancing is authorised for the following components: The counter weights, flywheel, clutch assembly and eccentric shaft. The rotors provided the balancing is performed on their end faces within an area 35 mm from the centre of the corner seal. Flywheel: Aluminium or composite materials are forbidden. Note; a minimum weight and installation specification will be formulated in conjunction with MotorSport NZ for the 2006-2007 season. Clutch: Single plate steel diaphragm type. Make and lining material free provided no modification to any associated part is required. The clutch plate friction surface shall be no less than 213 mm. Twin plate competition type, provided 10kgs is added to the vehicle weight as described in rule 3.1 part (iv). Automatic oil injection pump: may be removed and replaced by a blanking device Fuel Injection: All cars shall be fuel injected under article C10: The original or composite class control fuel injection system shall be used excluding the turbo. This shall be controlled by a NIMRRA control ‘Link’ engine management system (computer) that shall: Specifically exclude traction/launch control and other such functions not necessary to start and run the engine are subject to spontaneous technical checking. Throttle bodies; S4 turbo, or S6 throttle bodies may be used, no modification down stream of the butterflies is permitted, additional secondary damper butterflies may be removed. Butterfly linkage systems are free. Upstream of the butterflies is free. Inlet manifold and throttle body gaskets; are free but can not exceed 3 mm in total between any joint. Inlet Manifold: Pro7 Plus Single Specification engines; refer article 10.2 part (viii), Srs 4 and Srs 6 original engines shall use their original manifolds. Throttle position sensor: may be fitted. Oil pump shall remain original. Oil pressure relief valve settings are free. Dry sumps are prohibited. Oil cooler: and its location is free. Oil hoses (flexible) are free, provided Schedule A compliance is maintained. Oil filler: neck may be modified solely to facilitate cold air box fitment. Engine mounts; rubber may be substituted. Drive pulleys and belts are free. Exhaust system from the external face of the rotor housing is free. Radiator, radiator hoses, hose fittings, and location are free. Thermostat and its housing is free. Cooling fan is free. C11. INDUCTION SYSTEM Cold air box and filter type is free but any form of mechanical forced induction including turbo and or super charging is prohibited. Note; the cold air box could in the future become a control item. C12. IGNITION SYSTEM Spark plugs and HT leads are free. Ignition coils are free. 12.4 Ignition (fuel injection cars) shall be controlled by the NIMRRA control ECU computer, (as detailed in article 10.13), the ignition coil igniters are free. As you can imagine, it is a real time consuming thing having to tech cars. Not only is it the motor spec, they also run different weights depending on what motor they are using. Anyway. This is a huge reply. Will let you all ponder on it for a while.

From Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Evolution II Front Spoiler (E30 M3) Part #: 51712238178 Applications: 1988 - 1991 M3 (E30) As the competition heated up in touring car racing in the late 80's, BMW Motorsport created different evolutions of the E30 M3 to stay competitive. This Evolution II front spoiler lip is an example of the aerodynamic evolution of this car. This lip bolts on to the bottom of your existing front spoiler. Factory BMW Motorsport part. Comes primed and includes mounting hardware. Price: $369.95 Sale Price: $299.00 Savings: $70.95 Keep the wheels center lock. You can still buy from BMW new M3 front guards and rear quarter panels. Do the conversion. I plan on doing it for my future project.

So you are asking people who might be interested and then making them out bid each other on trademe. Like your styles. Seems fair to me. (not to be read as sarcasm!!!!)

Not to bad an idea.

What are after exactly?

2x front guards - great condition 2x coupe doors - electric windows - great condition Boot lid with factory spoiler - great condition interior is shot, but dash is in good condition. 325i struts - complete with disks and calipers front and rear windows side quarter windows towbar Ring me and make me an offer on what you want. If I don't like the offered price I'll tel you. NO TXT's 021 425 264

I have decided to sell my 2.5ltr. $600 for the motor alone. If you want the computer and engine loom that will be extra. Motor is complete minus flywheel as it is an auto. Anyone interested must ring me, TXT's will tell me you have no money to ring so no money to buy. Don't post interest here. 021 425 264

Carl, These are the lugs i'm on about

Has the flywheel been resurfaced on the clutch contact face? If it has, did the Pressure plate bolt-up face (flywheel surface) get machined the same amount. If this has not happened then the clamping force of the preasure plate will be lowered. In this case the clutch will be lighter underfoot and will take less Km's for small amounts of wear effect the opperation of the clutch. You will have less wear but will resemble worn clutch plate sooner. As the thickness of the clutch linning is reduced over time the clamping pressure will drop (slipping clutch) and the pedal height of clutch engagement will get closer to the floor. Alot of people (shops) over look this and it is a common problem. On a positive note, if you machine the Pressure plate bolt-up face (flywheel surface) more than what was removed off the clutch face you will increase the clamping pressure. Caution must be taken that you don't take to much off or the clutch wont disengage and render it undrivable.

Without knowing how you drive, I will offer this bit of advice.A while back when I was racing full time, my van developed the exact same synario with its clutch. I had no idea why, what or how. When I had trouble driving back from Pukekohe to Wellington after a very long race weekend I decided I would pull the box out and have a wee look. What I found inside was a perfect looking Pressure Plate. The clutch plate was how ever some what worse for wear. The liners were as new but the center was screwed. Not the splined part but the metal between it and the linings. What appares to have happened was the springs that take up the initial load and cushion the off the line slack had actually worn the slots that they sit in and fracture the steel surrounding it. This deformed the clutch center and in turn made it very hard to get a gear and gave the clutch pedal a funny feel. The cause of all this was the strain on the clucth while trying to hill start with the car and trailer on the back and also stop starting driving through towns. The same can happen from doing tomany burnouts, hard launches, stompies etc. As stated above, I don't know how you drive so I can't point the finger. There is also a very likelyhood that the clutch linnings are just worn, hard to believe for a 12 month old clutch but anything can happen. Using the clutch to stay still while at a red light on a hill. Hope this gives you something to think about before pulling the box out and having a look. No point in doing so just for the hell of it. I find it hard to believe the car needs to be level to bleed the clutch (ex Mechanic) but you never know. Once the box is out and the clutch is removed you may find that one or more of the Pressure Plate fingers may be bent. If so take it back to the place you got it from and see what they say. Good luck.

Someone must have a gearbox out there.

If you have to edit a post to make it readable then so be it. Just drop the giving them sh*t routine.

Why are you such an ass. Always slagging people and giving them sh*t. I am just about fed up with all your bullshit *Sic. You need to take a course yourself. I'll suggest a course on Politeness.If you want to carry on being a bitch to people, go and join a chat room where you will find like minded immature retards longing for a mid night encounter with a pimply faced 13 year old gimp. Or is it that you are not happy with your own life and you have to make everyone else feel as sh*t as you, and bring them down to a lower level than you, so you can feel like you have a higher status in this would????? Grow up and stop bagging the piss out of people. I would like to see you loose your mod rights and be knocked back a few pegs. Hell, blocking you all together would be better for everyone.

Go to Shelly's. you can buy them new for $500 each. Oh, and the rear quarter panels are $1200 each.

Sorry for not posting pic's yet. Have been to busy and had no time to go to my old's where the car is parked. Looks like it might be sold and if so, will be built into a class 2 classic rally car to compete in the Silverfrn rally later this year. we are talking: E36 M3 touring car motor (rally cams fitted) E36 M3 Close Ratio Box with straight cut Dog selection (no syncros) E36 rea end (or fabucated tube space frame and “A” arms. E36 Plate type Factory Race LSD Should be a nice project to sink our teeth into.

Ok then, So what I am after is a pre F/L 325i gearbox. Does anyone have one that they want to sell. I will also need the Flywheel. Please phone or txt 021 425 264

This is what I need

This is where the conflict starts. My car ('84 320i - early Motronic) doesn't have the sensors to the bellhousing. The donor car ('87 325i - late Motronic) does have them. Have checked my Bellhousing for the sensor ports but there ar non. Was going to swap Bellhousings over but the Auto has a longer one. This is not suitable. What I am after is a 260 gearbox with sensor ports. My 320 box is a 240. After looking at the 320 and 325 flywheels (compared mine to Grants spare) there doesn't appear to be any pick-up on them. The flex plate on the auto has a “tit” on it that one of the sensors must read. If you unplug the sensors the motor wont start. I have no idea what is picks up on but no doubt there is some sort of Voodoo black magic involved. Please help This is what my car has in it

Must be late model with the holes on the starter motor side of the bellhousing for the Position and Speed censors.

As the topic says. Car comes complete minus the motor and ALL engine bay wiring, radiator, plugs, switches etc. I'll leave the Auto box in it for the lucky buyer. Has rust on the rear of the car and a small bit on the bonnet. Easy fix. will make a good base for BMW race car. Reg is on hold. Interior is not to flash with a broken drivers seat. Missing Sunroof winder handle and glove box. Has complete set of 5 Bottle tops with good rubber. Asking price $400 firm. No offers no nagotiations will be entered into. Will send pictures to any interested parties.

This is exactly the sort of mindless modification that has caused the LTSA to come down hard on TRUE enthusiasts. Running on the bumpstops is dangerous, to say “Yea i dont really care about the handling too much but what im trying to do is actually trying to improve the ride quality.” has got to be one of the most pathetic, irrasponsable, dangerous to other road uses statements I have heard in a long time. If you want to lower your car so it scrape on the road, is ill handling and changes direction from bump steer every second you drive it PLEASE make a public announcement so all of New Zealands educated people driving their families and friends on the same roads as you can stop, park well out of the way and wait for you to kill yourself. Hopefully you don't take someone elses life in the process. Speed on brother, hell ain't full yet. RIP:slideways 02/06

What does it feel like when it is not loaded up. Reason I ask is that the extra weight in it will cause it to bottom out. I have the same problem with mine when I have a full car load.

Go to Pick a part in the Hutt. They have 2 5 series out there. Shouldn't cost you more than a few dollars. You have to take the part off yourself and they don't lend tools.

At a last ditch resort, file the slots in the guard to match up with the holes in the inner guard.

When I sent my car into the panel shop for it's make over I supplied 2 new front guards from 2 different cars. They fitted up without any hassle at all. No need to file/redrill any holes. The factory have supplied the guards with sufficient slots to juggle the fittment. Don't butcher the car just to fit the guard. Spend a bit of time to line it up properly with the factory slots. If the holes don't come close to lining up them I would say you have bigger issues. ie. something is majorly bent.