smokenbaby

Page European, BMW, Mercedes and Audi Service. 25 Home St, Mt Victoria Wellington.

This is a call for all members from Palmy North to Welligton, I need some Facelift 320 or 325 shift linkages. Am doing my 2.5 conversion this weekend and the ones I purchased have gone missing in the post. I URGENTLY need some for thomorrow. Am willing to drive to pick up and will pay in cash. If you can help please ring or txt me on 021 425264 Thanks in advance

I jumped in to bid for Grant as he was away from his comp. We talked about a fair price and low in behold, we were raped at the 12th hour. Sent a nice little TXT to show my disapproval and had no reply. That is helping all fellow Bimmersport members ain't it???

What further research do you need to do. Iyou have the information in these posts. Listen to people who have done the research and swap already.

There is no need to change the master cylinder and booster. The cylinders are the same regardless of ABS or non ABS. There are a couple of different part numbers listed but there is no difference between them. I have been down this road and the only thing you need to do is put the pressure regulater in to stop the back end from coming out under hard braking.

There is no need to convert to ABS. There is way to much to do to do it ie, lines, hubs, wiring and ABS computer. The only thing you will need to do is put the Brake Pressure Regulator in (picture of part attached). This is found mounted to the brake booster on Standard Disc Brake E30's. This needs to be done or you will swap ends when hitting the brakes in the wet. I found out the hard way. To remove your rear end you need to undo the diff to chassis mount, Drive Shaft bolts, Shocks, Take the exhaust off to make it easier, The nut either side at the back of the sill (main subframe bolt) and the 2 allen key bolts on the out side of the sill (this lets you take the plate off and drop the subframe out) Undo your brake lines, disconnect the E Brake (do this at the handbrake lever end. Just undo the 2 10mm nuts and pull the cables out through the back. Then poke the new ones that should be still attached to your disc rearend up the tubes and pull them through to the handle. Nice and easy) Hope this is of some help. Happy conversion.

Hey, I'm Kaelib. Hate being stuck in traffic on Xmas day when heading away to a well known Party destination.

$500 with out the wheels

how much did it cost you to get the parts from Germany. What was the freight like and how long did it take to get here.

I have seen his work on many cars at the track. Very impressive and I am very happy with the $2900 approx quote. He will get a bit of work out of it for sure. Has he given any thought to becoming the “spec“ builder for the class.

Please post $$$$$$$

That just put a rather large smile on me face on a day of supreme shitness. You have WWAAAAYYYYY to much blood in your alcohol system Carl. Nice work, keep it up. Look forward to your next.

That appears to be the case.

Right, this is what I have found while wiring in the link to 325rockets 325it project. On the 3 terminal ICV you have Battery power on the centre terminal with the ignition on. There should be about 10 volts between the centre terminal and both outer terminals. Three wire ICV check. With engine off, use an ohm meter and check the resistance on the two outer terminals of the valve. it should be about 40 ohms. Check the resistance on the centre and outer terminals of the valve. They should be about 20 ohms. Basically the ICV valve is a potentiometer. I believe the computer sends varying voltage to the valve which is picked up from the Computer Temperature sensor and then tranfered to the ICV. This then turns the valve on the inside and blocks the air passage at various stages to control the amount of unmetered air and in tern controlling the idle. Hope this is of some help.

I can do a national Race meeting there for cheaper entry fees. But, it is not as cool as having “the stig” there and the poss of meeting Clarkson (is he coming over for it). Hope so. He is funny as all hell.Get in and support this.

I would love to get rid of my single spinner have no fun in the wet standard shitter.The best thing you can do is change the angle of the ramps. This will make the diff be either on or off. My friend had a BMW Motorsport Factory race LSD in his E36 Touring car. The only diffence between a standard LSD and his was the angle of the ramps. It made it a lot more predicable and put the power to the wheels alot more positively.

Where were you when I was looking for a 260 box for my 2.5 conversion. Would have been so much easier than cutting the sensor holes out of the auto and welding them into my 240 bellhousing.Oh wait, I still haven't done this yet. How much you want for the 260 box. I take it, it has the sensor holes that are required for the TDC and Engine speed sensors.

Colin, I take it you have been working with MANZ on this project. How does the E30 series full with MANZ's towards 2015 document. Reason I ask is, PRO7's where I am both a competitor and Tech officer, have had to introduce both Series 4 and Series 6 RX7's to “upgrade” the fleet to meet MANZ requirements for sanctioning. Now this leads to another question. Is it your intention to have the Class sanctioned? If so what steps/proceedures have you implemented to ensure the survival of the Series beyond 2-3 seasons. Unfortunately the NZ spectators show up to the tracks to see good close racing with speed, excitement (crashes, rubbing etc). PRO7's tend to offer everything for NZ spectators. The class was once referred to in terms of spectatorable racing as being the “hot dog stand” class. We gauged our spectator appeal by the length of the hot dog stand lines. If there were ques for a mile at the stand we didn't promote good spectator appeal. If they were short or nonexistant then we had great appeal. There are many classes at most tracks that have long hot dog stand lines ie, formula first. The best suggestion I can make towards the rules is, Sit down with 2-3 people from within the industry (motorsport NZ, Stocks and maybe Lyall Willimson - Internation Motorsport) and produce a Rulebook based on the UK one but personalised to NZ's needs. Present this as the rule book and DON'T let drivers dictate rule changes. You should retain the right to change the rules when and where needed to tighten up wording and rule intent, parts supply (example: incase of a shortage of good second hand front guards - Fibreglass replica's may be used). This will then keep the costs down, promote an even playing field for everyone, encourage new members/drivers/teams. As a suggestion you could even go as far as having “kit” rollcages supplied by one company, that way everyone has the same. No extra bars than someone else getting an advantage by increased body stiffness etc. Spec shocks, swaybars but leave the sring rates as free. Srings to be 2.5 inch race coils (reason is cost and easier to obtain an off the sheilf spring rate) Controll the car spec as rigid as possible, don't leave holes in the rules where a competitor can abuse and get an advantage. Let the cars evolve in a dictated but controlled manner. PRO7's Series 1 cars are 12 years old (in terms of evolution) and are still being developed and evolving into an out of controll, high cost car. Every year we have a remit process that seems to be introducing more and more rule changes. This unfortunately has hidden intentions from the person submitting the remit. What we have in effect is a cdriver controlled class and is very hard to regulate from a tech departments point of view. It is getting out of control and needs to stop. If you can get it right the first time and not allow the drivers to control it, then the better off the class will be and will progress in a more controlled manner. I just hope that the E30 series is a hit and will promote good close exciting racing. I have been looking from the sideline at the series (as an E30 owner) and have a good friend in Grant from STOCKS. If I do look at building a car for the Series he will have imput into the building and hopefully the running of the car. Above is just my thoughts, be them right or wrong. Keep up the good work and please keep everyone on this forum informed of what is happening. Kaelib PRO7 #4

The following link is your best bet. Very expensive but at the end of the day you get what you pay for. This is the groupe A airbox so will work very well. You will need to have some sort of aftermarket computer running your motor or you wont get the most desired results. http://www.moseleymotorsport.com/parts_e30.htm

I hold great pride in only voting for girls I'd like to see half naked/naked in Quality mens magazines. Only the sexiest, great looking girls will ever get my vote. Count yourself as one of these girls. Voted - several times.

This is a cheap option. BNT sell Brembo's for $120 each. Easy to install. Just unbolt the caliper from your strut. Undo the the “lock” bolt that holds the disk to the hub and slide the disk off. When you have it off, it is a good idea to clean the rust, sh*t, dirt etc off the hub face where the disk mounts up. This will make sure that the disk sits flat against the hub and you don't get any run out. Before you slide the disk on, use some brake clean and give the disk-pad surface a good wipe to remove the shipping oil. Slide it on the hub and use the NEW bolt to secure it to the hub. Bolt your caliper back on and put your NEW pads in. Bleed the brakes. Job done. Make sure you “bed” your pads and disks in as per manufacturers instructions.

Now that is good England

BALL BEARING 80X35X20 23121224164 US$53.01 I would have to hazzard a guess and say they will be round the $75-80 +gst

I have a rather good relationship with Grant from Stocks in Auckland and Alf at Stocks in Wellington is a godd friend of mine. Grant is helping to develope the suspension for the class and by the sounds of it the shocks will be a controlled part (more and likely Koni adjustable - same with Pro7 Plus cars) and the springs will be free (spring rate upto the driver/team to test and use their best spring set up for the track). Sway bars will be a standard item to keep costs down and the diameter will be the spec. Running a non-adjustable shock would not be of any great disadvantage as the Pro7 Series 1 cars only use a standard valved KYB non-adjustable. These work great and we tent to changed them out half way through the season. Very small cost involved.

Little bit hard to position the jack under the pictured jacking points with the car on it's side. DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME KIDS.