smokenbaby

just a quick teaser.

I am getting Jamax supalows next week. Will post a pic when I have car back from panel beaters. Will be posted in “320 to the Paint GODS“ thread

I don't like the taste of bugs, put it on the trailer. Nice and light is right. Took it for a spin yesterday in the rain. Not to flash on the traction I tell ya.

just one more

again

Here are a couple of Pics. Dropped it off on way to work this morning. Was time for a tidy up. Nothing to special or serious. Will post a pic when I get it back on the road next week.

try John Rea Insurance. 0800 ring jrHe insured my RX7 race car $15000 cover on car (fire, theift and travelling -on trailer) Plus all my spares and tools etc $5000 same cover as car. $460/year and $300 excess He also insures my old flatmates EVO3 Rally car. $25000 full comprehensive road insurance, fire theift and travel. Even included Touring stages on rallies as they are on public roads. Even the fact that the touring stages are still part of a motorsport event, their reason, public need to be covered and so do you. John races a Camaro in the Sports and GT class and know all about race cars, classic etc having trouble with insurance. All their policies are non replacement so that means they pay out on the insured value of the car and not market place. Hope this helps everyone out.

Does not need to be a BMW as far as I know.

no point in swapping subframe every 6 months and getting another wheel alignment just for a warrent. If you slotted the standard subframe and didn't weld on the adjusters then you are more likely to be knocked back on the warrent. With the adjusters on the car you can at least argue that it has come out of a USA spec'd 5 series. There will be no way they can call you on it (hard for you to prove as well) but at least they will have to give you the benifit of doubt. I will ring a place I know today who are strict on warrents and voice it with them. The testing station guys would never pick it up as they are seem to give anything a warrent. As an arguement point, if you own say a '91 Nissan Pulsar and put camber bolts in the front. Do you need a cert. Answer NO. What is the difference other than we are welding adjuster plates on. This DOES NOT compromise the strength or the ability of the subframe from performing it's spacific duty. I'll post the outcome from my decussion later.

Grant and I will offer a service to weld the adjusters on subframes. Must be clean and include return courier fee. $75 incl new black 2k paint. (camber only) $100 incl new black 2k paint. (camber and toe) Local (lower north Island) Bimmersport members can also have a removal/fitting service provided. $200 incl remove, weld, paint, install and new wheel alignment. (camber only) $250 incl remove, weld, paint, install and new wheel alignment. (camber and toe) Pick-up delivery extra

I notice the wipers are on, this would mean that your tire pressures weren't set lower to over come the wet track. This must have all started at Castrol (corner before). Looks cool though. If you caught it and still got to the hairpin with some speed on you are doing good for D1 champ status. I feel your hurt/alation as many times in the wet at manfield I to have had a similar experience in my PRO7. Nice pic

it is a manz requirement to have padding on the cage where your head is within 300mm of tube. Most rollcages I have seen and had above me require padding as it is to close to my scone. Interior wise, keep it simple. Centre console is a good idea as it covers the hand brake and sharp edges, plus makes the interior tidy. Keep the dash, but you may want to remove anything in it that is non-essential. If you want to run your car in classics on the track you should look at the class regs as I believe they require a full interior for compliance with the rules. Attached is the dash area of my RX7 race car

where are the pictures

What I failed to mention was my friend Wayne (mechanic where we did it second time round) helped out. Just set a plan and did it. While we were unbolting the rear the oil was draining. While I was putting things back in Wayne was doing the front end. Yes it fixed the problem. With the stand-up kit in it will make it so much better as I can put slight toe in on the rear and a**hole all the camber.

Changed it back out last night. This time on the hoist. Took a grand total of 1hr30min from the first crank of a nut. That was handbrake cables, diff head, trailing arms, brake lines, subframe out. New subframe in and all the rest of the hardware. Bleed rear brakes, deglaze front pads and disks, bleed rear brakes, drop the oil and do a filter. Subframe feel back in this time. Should never have taken it out in the first place. Was going to do a stand-up kit for it but left the mounts at my old's. Will do it in a few weeks when I get the Jamax Super lows for it.

Just spent a lazy Sunday swapping out the drum rearend for an 89 Disk rear sourced from a wreaker. What a waste of a day. Everthing thing went to plan and only took a few hours to do but........ While road testing and bedding in the disks and pads the rear end was all over the place like a mad womans shite. Hit a bump and rear of car steered away from the bump. Rear is all twitchy as hell. Got back in the garage and had a look. Rear wheels were toeing in big time. Jacked up car and did some measuring only to find the NEW Subframe is bent. Rang the wreaker at home and he tells me the car it came out of was involve in a t-bone crash. Makes sence that the subframe is bent. Spending tonight swapping the old cross member back in so hopefully my wheel alignment should be back to normal and the rear will track in a straight line again. So when buying a disck brake rearend, make sure the crossmember is straight before swapping your old one out. Or you can do what I should have done and just swap out the trailing arms. Would have taken a fraction of the time and been sweet to drive.

Why don't you fill the hole in the fender, remove the hood linning and fit a 90's Honda Civic arial up front.

I need to remove the hood lining to fix small rust spots behind the sunroof. These are only minor but need to be drilled and welded and the underside of the roof panel needs to be rust killed and primed. How do you remove the hood lining in one piece. I have had a look months ago but can't seem to get the front section (where the warning lights are) to come away from their clips without trying to break the backer. Any advice would be great. Someone out there must have done this that can help. PM me as I am hopeless at tracking posts.

If you look at most race car 6spd sequential gearboxes they are forward downshift, backward upshifts. Not actually driven one but due to my racing experience it would make more sence to push forward to downshift as it would feel awkward pulling back while under heavy braking. WRC cars tend to have their paddle shift set so you pull towards the wheel to upshift and push it away from the wheel to downshift. If you take note of the gear lever (on the trans tunnel) it moves back and forward in the opporsite direction as the paddles. I have driven most of the Honda tiptronic's and they are set to forward - upshift, backwards - downshift. I would prefer forward- down, backward - up.

My race car is for sale to make way for a new project (BMW based of cause) All the parts I have listed are my engine builder surplus parts. The brake pads are rebounds from BNT. Cost about %120 for the fronts. Need to give them a set of backing plates. You can also try some Carbon Metelics. The price is higher but you will never have pad problems. Give Jason a ring at Pitstop Petone and ask him what compound the BNT pads come in. Tell him I put you onto him. He gets them for my and his brother inlaw's Rx7.

The guy needs his head read. It is impossable to have an E30 as low as he has and still have any suspension movement on the back. If the set-up was the best dogs bollocks then the factory DTM and Groupe A cars would have been set up that low. He will also find out very quickly that MANZ (NZ Motorsport) Will not allow him to race at the ride height in any tin top class (Other than clubmans maybe) as they have a minimum ride height. This is measure by removing the air out of both wheels on the same side of the car. Nothing on the car is allow to touch the ground other than the tires. Plus, if he is real lucky to have any movement in the rear, he will have such a short stroke on the rear shocks/spring that would deam themuseless as they wont even have the time to dampen the bump/rebound. The springs would look more like a bent piece if wire and nothing like a spring. Good for him, we just might be rid of another dropkick on the roads.

I know that there was a problem with the NZ V8 Tourings a couple of seasons back where one car in particular was a lot faster than the rest and sounded much different to the rest of the same make. This was because the team had found (by accident on the dyno) that by swapping the order of the plug leads it made more power. This also turned it into sounding like a constipated frog at full song, but hey the result was there. BMW may have a different firing order that the rest of the V8's out there. This will change the sound and performance so it is a win win situation. Also bore and stroke and max revs will all add to the sound. F1 cars are small capacity V10's pulling upto 20,000rpm. The revs make them shrek and the small capacity makes it possable for them to rev so hi. If you listen to a Ford staight 6 and a Holden(Nissan) straight 6 they sound different, then throw in a BMW 6 and it is different again. There are so many reasons as to why they are different. At the end of the day you are correct, American V8's are unrefinded boat anchors, single cam pushrod motors.

20b is a Turbo motor, Build by Dynapack Racing and is huge in horsepower. Turbo was removed and now runs on a 600 hp 13b in OSCA Sport Saloons.

Pro7 Flywheel $350 12a pp as raced by Gavin Dawson SS2000 Autoart Bat $6000 6spd Charlie Evans NEW Style $4000 2x 6spd Charlie Evans OLD Style jammed in 3rd $1400 each 15x9" Nissan Mags with 10" slicks $1600 Front Struts Complete - EVO3 to S3 RX7, Adjustable camber and KPI with big brakes $2000 20b Race motor - incl Computer, injection etc, NO Turbo $13,000 S3 Diffs $offers Contact: Cameron Jones ph 027 241 3507

Kaelib, E30 shitter, bout to be wiped up and converted.