smokenbaby

yes Grants was the complete hub. The guy we used to get cheap bearing etc from has now changed jobs so the hook up is no longer there. Just when I was going to start a new Race Car project, worst timing ever.

I got a (sponsors) price from BNT of $150+gst

Series 6 RX7, bang for buck. If not then maybe a S13/14 silvia.

rear brakes are gone sorry, that is why I didn't list them. Front guards are under negotiation at the moment.

2 different listing and part numbers for the same year car.

This might help

In general ALL cars will generate more heat while under load. ie, up hills. My 320i used to climb a bit on the guage. I also had a blown head gasket which doesn't help but was controlled by turning the heater to hot. I would recommend you do a reverse flush before you go out and get a new radiator. Basicall, just take your radiator out and blast water through the bottom hose. (radiator to be upside down) this will help delodge any rust or sh*t stuck in the top of the tubes. You can also then take the hose off your header tank (catch bottle where you fill it up) and run your garden hose through this as well. I did it with the motor running (radiator still out of car) and after 5 minutes the water ran clean as it went it.

other thing you need to look for and be wary of is the front of the crank tends to break. That is motor out and serious $$$ to fix. Forester sti are just a WRX sti with a different body. Floor pan and chassis is all the same. They have the same inherent problems as WRX sti. Standard sti runs 17psi boost. That is how they get the 205kw. Standard steel crank and rods is a bonus and that is how they stay together. Expensive to fix all the same. My ma has a 2000 sti wagon. $450 for an oxy sensor. Common fault. They also leak water out of the manifold bypass tude. 2 o-rings per side. These are a cheap part but the labour will kill you. 7-8 hours to do it. Water pumps are also a common failure. 5 hours labour.

mouse ran over

how did you know I have a DVD copy sitting right here on my desk. If someone can rip a DVD I'll be more then happy to provide. I will be getting it ripped this weekend anyways.

I read in a magazine somewhere that the Tony Longhurst M3 was good for 355hp. Revving to just shy of 11000rpm a missed gear change ment the car would last 1 more lap before the motor was an over prices paper weight. These cars were running under the Groupe A regs but were more interestingly DTM spec'd motors.

I will swap my setup time on the Frank Allen invoices for a copy.

this would no doubt be a great avi to watch, but would hate to have to download it on dial up. Can't really download 641mb at work either.

I will give Andre the BIG thumbs up. He did the tuning on my Formula Atlantic Powered Datsun. He is amazing at tuning and the to think he was getting 230hp out of my little N/A 1600. This was about 5 years ago now and he has come along way in that time.There is no doubt in my mind that he will get the most horsepower out of Grants 325iT with the limited amount of engine work Grant does (standard comp) and it will be a VERY safe tune as well. I can't say enough about Andre and his wizard like Brilliance.

It is possable to make clones. I would have to work out a labour cost for the welding as I am the one who has done it for grant. At a guess you would be looking somewhere around 8-900 mark.

is the early motor. Am in negotiations on a gearbox so may be holding onto the motor. Will inform if that is the case. From memory the motor is 230k on it. Wellington

clamp1

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Good to hear it was a simple fix, no money out lay and the rapping has now turned into church music.

Sorry, 2 thumbs today, bad hair day and lack of mental power due to flu. Ment to say “2 discs.......”

Don't waste your ime with DBA rotors. They are only a road disk after all and will not last the distance. That is what I used on my RX7 and they were a good dick but I only got 2 race meetings out of them before they cracked. The only plus side of them was I only paid $100 each for them from BNT. That made it cheap enough to replace regularly. If you want a RACE rotor but want to keep the price down, I would suggest Coleman rotors. Or if money isn't a problem go with the AP disk. But make sure you get a RACE disk not a Road disk. Nothing worse than brake problem. Especially while trying to pass someone only to loose the pedel and beach it.

Word of caution. “DONT LIGHTEN CAST IRON FLYWHEELS” the with fail and make a hell of a mess. When you remove material you are removing the strength. Cast iron's strength is not onlt the material in general but the surface is criticle to it's strength. It is like a skin. remove it and look out. If you want to good to a 10-12lb flywheel, buy a custom made billet steal one. You can get them made at precision engineering in Auckland. Last one I got made cost me $600 but that was made from the highest grade billet high tensile steel. Only because it had to be rated to handle 10,000rpm all day. You can go to a lower tensile as you wont be revving as high. This is your safest bet.

2 things here, DS3000 are a great pad for medium sized cars like he E30. The only thing I will say about the DS3000 is. DONT use them after they have hit the half warn thickness. They fall apart and you are left with no brakes. On our PRO7's we use them and they work bloody well. Great peddle feel and there is no fade and they work pretty much from the first corner. We use BNT Rebonds at the Manfield 4 hour enduro last june. Brand new Bedded fronts at the start of the race and we got the whole 4 hours out of them. OK, on the last lap, we had no brakes left at all and the pad backing plate was melted to the caliper piston. Wilwood Dinalites are a good Caliper. I ran them on my Datsun 1200 SS2000 car. 240hp Formular Atlantic motor in it and it stopped fantastic. OK I was using the Wilwood Peddle box and Dinalite rear Calipers as well and the car only weighed 700kg. But all in all they were a great setup. When going to a larger diameter disc, be carefull as they have some negative effects as well. They will help you stop but up an have pad knock off (when the stub axle flex's under braking and this “knocks” the pad off the disc causing poor braking) which can be as bad if not worse than the current setup on your car. Also they require more effort to stop (braking force) as the larger the disc the more inertia (Spelling) it carries. Also it adds more “unsprung” weight to your car. But on the plus side, BIG brakes not only give you the chance of stopping better and more controlled, they also look blood cool in behind your wheels. Good luck with your brake upgrade and hope it all turns out good.

without pic's I'll have to hold back. $8.75