smokenbaby

The 8 series brembos bolt right up to E30 M3 hubs, but its difficult to find a disc that will fit.

Reason I mention this, is that E28 hubs = E30 M3 hubs, so why not try something along those lines?

Are the bearings the same as standard E30 ones. If so this will make it somewhat easier to do a 5 lug front conversion. No mods need in respect to changing struts and so on.

sorry could possibly be that im drunk right now, or that im confused as to what you said , but huh?

Do you want to buy a Mtech 2 Convertable?

I believe is what he asked.

Hi folks,

I failed my WOF today on (among other small things) an exhaust manifold leak... And I've heard it's best to let these things alone if you can get away with it because the risk of snapping a nut will mean pretty much a new engine, or equally massive job...

Does anyone know of a trick on m20's to loosen the nuts? Any way to pre-lubricate them before trying to turn them? What about spraying crc on them every morning for a month?

Any ideas much appreciated!!!

I also need headlights, right outer (facing front of car) and left middle. Anyone have these parts for sale?

You should be lucky enough to undo the nuts after a spray of CRC or Rostoff (spelling - is a wurth product). you may find that 1 or 2 studs will wind out from the head instead of the nut coming off the stud. This is not a problem as you can just wind it back in like a bolt. If you are unlucky enough to snap a stud off it is an easy fix as long as there is enough stud still in the head to get either vice grips or a stud removal socket onto it. The studs normally snap where the thread ends.

I have 5 straight spare rear cross members if you want some to play around with.

I'll keep that in mind thanks.

At this stage this is just for Toe adjusters. I can get a price to do the Camber also but this will push the price up of cause. There will be no exchange system just yet. It is hard to find straight rear cross members at the wreckers. I can weld the brackets onto anyones existing cross member but all freight costs will be at the owners cost NOT mine.

Sounds like the relay is shagged. If it is like the E30 relay there is 2 coils inside it. 1 for the Intermittant/Slow speed and Park. The other is for high speed.

You will get a shock when priving a new one. The one for the E30's is $490+.

Good luck.

Drop it, my partner or nearly 2yrs reads this forum.

RESPECT !!!

Have just about finalised prices to get E30 rear toe adjusters made. From all accounts it is looking lik $100 incl GST + freight.

Who would be keen on some.

Ha, move the decimal place one place to the right and you'll get a bite

$15.01.

Oh sorry, my other right.

Ian, how much would you be looking for this. Please advise us of what you want. That way no one insults your intelligence.

Thanks

Haha nah man he didn't touch it...wish he had though..kiiiiiding

Worth a shot

$3,000,000 and a set of false teeth I found out the back of work and a fire damaged 205x50x13 Bridgestone tyre.

[quote name=

I'll pay higher than what ever smokenbaby offers.

Someone had to start the bidding.

I'll buy it. $150 cash right here right now.

Put it back on the Sparky who wired your alarm and tell him that there must be something he did.

Head gasket set from BNT. Trade Price is $140 incl.

my front right wheel is buckled (no idea how) on the inside. i was just wondering what were some good places around auckland to get it fixed? all the tire shops send it away somewhere so that'd cost more. in manukau i found a shop on the corner of cavendish and lambie drive but they dont seem too professional and they quoted me $110 which is an ok price.

thnx in advance.

You can try Arrow Wheels.

6 D Westech Place ,

Kelston,

Auckland

Ph: (09) 8188388

dowsn anybody sells shole set of bushes ? I wouldnt mind buying whole set. I called BNT sometime ago they dont have rear subframe bushes for E30 and they mentioned they can make them at approx $110 per unit (you need two). at those prices replacing all bushes can easily go over $1k.

I wouldnt mind replacing all bushings, but at that price it is realyl questionable.

You could also try BMW, they are not overly stupid with their pricing.

Use these part numbers to get your prices.

Diff to Chassis mount - 33171135242 x1

Subframe mount - 33311129144 x2

Rear Trailing Arm bush - 33329061945 x4

Rear Swaybar to Chassis mount - 33551131290 x2

Rear Swaybar Link - 33551126932 x2

Front Wisebone to Chassis Bush - 31129058931 x2

Front Swaybar to Chassis mount - 31351129139 x2

Front Swaybar Link - 31351091764 x2

That is all you need for bushes/mounts for the E30 Suspension.

Hope this helps.

can some one suggest a good company to get parts eg. brake discs &pads, front and rear bush kits

Go to BNT for your brake parts. They are $100 each for the disks (brembos). Pads will vary in price depending on the compound you use. Ferodo DS1000 should be alright.

Rear Bushes. If you want standard spec give SAS a ring. They remanufacture bushes to standard spec.

around $70? or $80? will check if you want...could post it down no worries

Cheers Gus, toying with idea of selling me car but I'll be in contact next week.

Ok here goes, I'm just toying with the idea of selling my car. What do you guys/girls think it is worth.

Or if you want to make me a reasonable offer I am always open to it.

Please don't insult my intelligence, I know what a fair price is.

'84 320i coupe

2.5ltr conversion

5sp close ratio overdrive 5th motorsport box

from standard exhaust manifold, 2" twin primary pipes into twin in twin out muffler, single pipe into 2.5" rear muffler.

Disc rear end

Bilstiens all round with Jamax super lows

17" rims with good rubber (3/4 tread still remaining)

Dark carpets, Custom Black Velour roof lining, black/grey Recaro front seats, Black/grey standard door cards

Ecipse MP3 CD head unit, JBL front components, rear cheapie speakers

Momo Leather gear knob

Sabelt Suade steering wheel

Tints

Uniden Alarm with imobilizer (central lock capable but not wired in - ran out of time and never got back to do it)

Complete set of BMW tools in boot holder.

View photos

http://www.putfile.com/smokenbaby/images/17881

months ago i made my own short shifter out of a stock one for a cost of box of beers...

but the rod mount below flurcum. inserter about 15mm (if memory serves me right) or random rod beterrn flurcum and rod mount. essnetially moved rod mount 15mm further to flurcum. welded it up. reassembled.

very nice...

the 15mm distance is crucial. 2mm less will give you smother changes and 2mm more will be too aggressive/hard/nothy. I'm not sure about 15mm... i dont remember now...

Mops, i made one for my old Nissan Sentra. 10mm was the figure I used and it was brilliant. I am now a little lazy and if Gus is willing to do it for me then I'll be happy.

15mm looks like it will be the biscuits, should be a nice shift.

Gus me ol china, how much was the bavarian motors one?

If I was to purchase one would you be willing to do the mod and then send down to me?

Right well in that case, your rails are worth a small amount over at www.mmc.org.nz forums so dont throw them away. Plenty of mitsi-heads need rails for different seats in their lancers.

In addition to that, you can use any mitsubishi evo recaro seat as they all share the same rail mounting points on the seat (although the rails are slightly different to suit each shape of evo) so, evo 1,2,3 (even early gsr) recaro's share the same rails and evo 4-6 share the same rails and I believe the 7-9 share the same rails though I cant confirm that one.

Thanks for the heads up on that.

are these mitsubishi evo 3 recaro's we're talking about?

correct

I'm looking a running no stereo - just an iPod into an amp into my front speakers? I have soundstream 6.5 with tweeters with passive xovers.

How would I hook it all up in terms of input into the AMP. (The iPod connector goes to the dock connector on the iPod and outputs stereo RCA and also connects to the battery for changing).

Your best bet is to go from the RCA Outputs into a Pre-amp then out of that into the Input on your amp. You don't need the pre-amp but it cleans up the very dirty Digital sound from the iPod. I had one made for $140 including it own voltage regulator/power supply. Don't ask me how it sounds as my Drug F#@KED mate still hasn't got around to giving it to me. Think I might go and break his legs if he doesn't hurry up.

But that is probably your best bet there Andrew. You could also just use your supplied with iPod 3.5mm jack to RCA lead and go straight into your Amp's inputs.

nz320i, you have got it easy if that is the only rust you have. I had a few little water leaks myself. When I went looking I just about died.

The drivers side: firewall where the battery sits has now be rebuilt, the lower corner of the foot well has been rebuilt, the seam that runs vertically from floor to behind dash panel has be wire brushed and resealled with seam sealer. The steering column to firewall mount has been resealed with new (made by me) gasket and a touch of seam sealer.

The passangers side: the seam that runs vertically from floor to behind dash panel has be wire brushed and resealled with seam sealer. The behind dash panel has had the area where it meets the front window repaired (about 8 inches long and an inch tall) this goes into the heater intake area and water would just gush up and in the car. The engine bay side of the scuttle panel behind the fuse box has been rebuilt, the wiring loom hole that you described has been repaired and sealed.

Every repair and/or rebuild was sealed with seam sealer. All external areas were also brushed over with texture coat as a secondary barrier.

All of this was done by myself and took a total of 2 weeks to find/fix/test with water/refix/test etc. The carpet took about a week to dry but the underfoam took 2 months @ 35 degress in a glass house to dry.

Car is now quieter and nice to drive with carpets back in. Will have to turn radio up now to drown out the girlfriend on long trips.