dirtydoogle

A mate of mine has a 306 gti, I really really want it! Nobody does a FWD like Pug and they drive and look damn good. Brilliant wee car, he picked his up for $2k with a snapped cambelt, off came the head, sent away, bent valves fixed etc and thrown back on. Off for a drive and sh*t what a giggle! I would like a lil pug for a daily driver, but I am too tight.

Kieran- SBC? Looking awesome dude! Very jealous.

Only Lucas left on her is the dizzy and coil. For now... No, the B never officialy stood for buick as far as all my piles of classic trivia and magazines tell me, rather it reffered to the second generation "body". As the p6 3500 never was named a B, yet it had the Buick donk. Grouse little motorcar none theless. I love it alot. Have whipped the carb out, found a split O-ring on the fuel pipe from the primary to secondary float and have replaced the needle and seats on both sides, runs smooth and a brazilian now.

Great score mate! I had an E12, I know a chap down the road with four of them. I absolutely love them! Looks like it has heaps of potential, I have some rear lovvels springs if you want them?

The 5sgt and 5egt are worth bugger all these days, I know of three I could get for under $1k at the moment. 2 of which are wofed and regd. I know of a quattro non turbo I could have for around 4500, it's a two owner NZ car. Immaculate too.

Mental health support worker, training/studying to eventually be a forensic psych and child psych. Hope to do some work with CYFS next year or bugger off to aussie.

If it was to get a different motor, I would go with a chev. But, that's not happening. I love the noise of the 3.5 and it goes nicely. It's a bit quicker than the E36 320i over taking and off the line and is sublimely comfy. what more do I need? Except a louder exhaust and a skid.

Great cars, can't beat the noise of the carbied 5sgt though. Have driven a fair few of these and absolutely adore them. Great looking, epic sound track and extremely reliable too. One mate had one that clocked 414km on the original motor, barely serviced too. Look out for interior door handles not working, simple fix involving a small steel rod. Electric windows can shag out, fuel pumps get very noisy at higher miles but work fine. Seat mounts tend to break after a while and the seats move in all sorts of fun directions. The drivers seat side bolsters wear out too.Beautiful cars for the right price, wouldn't pay that much for an a-typical 2wd with some shiny bits. A coupe quattro [non-turbo] is just worth that much.

Thankfully the P6 3500 didn't have any BL input! Otherwise it would be a square sd1 falling apart all the time. The only ecent car in the BL range must have been the Dolomite Sprint, what an awesome little car!

Have you set the float levels correctly? Could also be a split diaphragm.

I may have dropped it off at the Y pipe just to check if it sounded nice.....it did. It is far nicer than my E12 was Yeah, go the 215ci buick!

It is rather haha Owes me $2000 at the moment. that figure may be going up a bit..... Thanks mate! I never thought about that! I think they called it tobacco brown....ugh. But, pretending to be in a Guy Richie film would tickle my fancy.

73 Rover P6 series 2. 3.5 auto. 89,000 miles =) Has a nice wee four barrel holley 8007/4160, which loves to over fuel...alot....so I shall be stripping that down and using a BFH to gently tune it. Nice sharp white paint, it has had a bare metal respray by the looks of things and has a small amount of rust in a few doors. Easy jobs! It needs a few sealed beam units for a wof, which is all it needs. Not bad for a 37 year old car! It's far nicer to ride in than the E12, it's smoother and quieter than the E36 and rides amazingly well, far better than the E36 did. Brakes are....well....70's and British. Not too inspiring for a 4 wheel disc set up, but, not too bad either. The leather is all very nice with the exception of the drivers seat. Might throw an SD1 5 speed at her some time too. But, for now I will be tidying her up and enjoying the smooth V8....when it's in tune. Plans for the next few weeks is a full service, go over all the wiring and rebuild the carb. Then I shall start on the rust and get some paint matched up. What do you guys think?

Bit too much current draw Mark/Rotty? Can happen with a test light too. I couldn't comment on the cheaper scanners, have only been given the learn on middle of the range toys.

I did my hood lining myslf with an ADOS adhesive and a two way stretch black fabric [$9m]. Has been in the car for a few months and hasn't sagged, has one small bubble, my fault. Looks great, I did the A and B pillars too. I have to get around to fixing the door fabric, it's literally falling off. Please resize your pictures & repost them...about 800 X 600

Thanks mate, I didn't think of that! I'll modify the diagram.I've run into a problem though, turns out the signal is not a constant voltage, the signal is a solid 5V when 12V [100% duty cycle] is needed at the pump, when "9V" is needed at the pump the signal is 5V at a 50% duty cycle, not like 2.5V as common belief dictates. This effectively tells the fuel pump ecu to cut the fuel pump down to around 75% duty cycle...so I have to figure a way of translating the 50% signal into a 2.5V or, ideally no signal at all. I've been looking at the effect of a step down buck converter, but, I don't think that is going to work. Perhaps some clever trickery with some SCRs? I've never worked with PWM before so this is all new to me. Any suggestions?

That's what I was thinking too.

Only the germans or ford could manage that =) Sorry sir that's a 302 mexico not a windsor, that part won't fit....

Coupe, I wasn't aware there was a difference?

Right outside the public toilets in Eketahuna!!!!!! I never knew an M5 went through my town.... Bleeding nice M5 too!

A we drop of irony there on my behalf.

Would help wouldn't it?

I like simoms location. I also like grammar that is correct.

Problem sorted, low voltage SPDT relay. Pharque I'm good Look out for pic sizes. Hopefully this could help somebody else?

Right, I am designing a replacement for a fuel pump ecu from a toyota soarer [uzz3* and jzz3* series, same as a jza80 supra and jzx8* chaser]. Basically it is a switching device that switches the voltage out put from 12V [engine cranking and haerd throttle/load situations] to 9V [cruising, idle/low load and rpm]. The original unit has a sender/signal wire from the ecu, obviously to trigger the voltage regulation. This system is prone to dying and nobody seems to have designed a replacement part. All I am having trouble with is deciding what kind of switch to use. It obviously needs to switch when a pre-determined current passes through the signal wire, I have thought of a SMPS [switched mode power supply] or going with a triggered switch [Transistor? Circuit opening relay? etc] that will bridge the 12V circuit and go through a .75 ohm ballast resistor. Pics may be a wee bit big due to detailing. Attached is my hoary microsoft paint idea, but I can't decide what switch to use! Also a schematic for the original system. Any ideas/advice would be cool thanks.