gjm

In the absence of funds to buy an X1, we're looking at other sources for a small SUV. The CR-V seems to fit the bill... In post-1999 version it has enough get up and go to get out of it's own way, it has the comfortable seating position Mrs M needs and is easier for her to get in and out of than a much lower vehicle. It'll need to be an automatic, and preferably 4WD. Does anyone have any experience of these? The 1999-2001 facelift model appears to suit us best (in terms of reliability, availability, and price) although it's possible we might be able to stretch to an early 2nd generation model (2001-2005). The 2nd generation got a V-TEC engine which while adding complexity, also added power without sacrificing fuel economy, and they don't appear to be unreliable.

As Kyu says, 'better' can mean different things. If it's the cheapest possible option you're after, you're probably asking the wrong people! Conor's suggest of Glenn @ Botany is an excellent one. If you want someone to have a quick look over the car, I work in Papatoetoe and would be happy to do that. I don't work on cars for a living and I definitely don't have Glenn's experience, but if I don't know an answer, I don't guess: I go to someone who does know.

Well... Three of them are OK? What's the bore like?

Where in Auckland are you? If you're at all unsure of what you're looking at, we can recommend a specialist who can help.

The green-yellow-red is an indicator of how soon a service is needed. In this case - soon! The red circle with a white 'P' is displayed when the handbrake is on. Nothing to worry about. Get it serviced and have the indicator reset.

Good price. If I had 45mm struts I'd be all over these. GLWS.

Damn. There goes any chance of my jelly beans offer being accepted. It was going to be for a lot of jelly beans, too!

Jasjot.S

I'm not sure if he is still on holidays, but he'll certainly be back next week.

Doesn't sound like quite the same problem. Give Kayne Barrie a call - 027 497 5330. I have a very superficial knowledge of Getrag 'boxes - he's rebuilt more of them than he'd care to remember.

How does it feel? There should be a little pressure needed to get across to the 1-2 gate, and a lot (obviously) to get into reverse. Similarly, getting to the 5th gear gate should require a little effort, and the gear lever shouldn't 'flop' between the 3-4 gate and the 5th gear gate. I think there is a locking pin and a bush (check p/n 23311228392) which when worn, can cause the problem you describe. It is normally associated with other symptoms, too.

Does the gearshift return correctly to a neutral position, or does it tend to sit between the 3-4 gate and the 5th gear gate?

Imagine a lightweight (carbon roof, bonnet, boot) E36 M3 with an S14-derived 4-pot 2.5 litre engine, spinning to (say) 8500rpm and producing 240-250hp Nothing that can't be done, but as far as I know not something that has (yet?) been built.

Looks like Monte Carlo blue, metallic matt.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1225314342.htm Not perfect, but looks unmolested and is NZ new. Given what I've read elsewhere about prices, could be worth a look. (I don't have $12k!)

No such things as an E24 M6 with an automatic gearbox! Lovely cars, with or without a manual gearbox. I had a dolphin grey M6.

I've never heard of them! I'll take a look.

1981 - the 380SE. Not the best example of the W126, but a great car in it's own right.

The tongue that drops down on the right side looks different to the E30, but other than it could be the same.

If you could, that'd be great. A rough idea of the profile, and sizes would be wonderful.

Idle issue - vacuum hoses? This gives a good run-down on what to look for and do: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/JF-Tech/BMW_E30_3_Series_Idle_speed_troubleshooting.htm

That's the one I'm looking at. Much cheaper than anything I've found elsewhere... But only good if it fits!

Great cars. This is the coupe version of the saloon we have. The 500 and 560 are siblings. The 560 is slightly lazier, more long-legged; the 500 is more sporty. That said, I find we rarely see more than 3000rpm and even then we're deep into licence-losing territory. Big cars, but with the suspension set up correctly they handle very well and predictably. And for a 1980s V8, they're pretty economical too.

Reason for WoF failure (according to NZTA In-service WoF regulations, 8.1.19): A brake backing plate is: a) insecure, or severely corroded, or c) deformed from its original shape, or d) cracked, or e) contaminated by brake fluid, oil or grease. But that doesn't say a backing plate needs to be fitted, and in some cases will actually refer to the backing plates in a drum brake setup. Thinking about what they do... The plates could help keep radiated heat away from your tender ball joint boots and (in a few cases) may help direct cooling air where it's needed on the disk. That said, heat will likely only be an issue if you cook your brakes, then immediately come to a complete stop and don't drive away. And most backing plates won't do anything to guide air sensibly (without some sort of ducting also being in place). The only real benefit I can see is that they help keep your suspension clean(er) of brake dust. I know a lot of racers don't use them. For further thought - have you ever seen a motorbike with a brake backing disc? I suppose there may have been one or two, but I suspect 99%+ of bikes don't have them.

Damn. I looked a them earlier, sucked my teeth a bit, reminded myself it was Boxing Day and found something simpler to do.