gjm

The other thing about the early MX-5 was that despite having been caned day in and day out, they didn't break. Look after it, and it looked after you.

Dinosaurs, that's what they are. This is the new way!

Lol! We did that at work, when I was in the UK. With a website for Her Majesty's Government. It was supposed to be a test site, and the live one would be hosted from the DC, but somehow the DNS got messed up and the doggy POS on the desktop ended up being the live server.

Keep praying it's not the heater matrix... I didn't find any damp inside the car, but I could smell coolant so hopefully that'll not be your problem.

Just once, though, eh?

Closest I've got to a RS6 is the B7 RS4 Avant. 4.2 V8 with an 8000rpm redline. The S65 is awesome. So easy to drive. And if you get bored, it's so easy to tune, too. 600hp can become up to 1000hp, but the torque stays limited to 1200Nm to save the drivetrain from destruction. Apparently it can be beefed up to withstand 1600Nm, which the engine is happy to deliver.

Not driven the fast Audi... Did have a drive in a 10-year-old Mercedes S65 recently. OMFG... 600hp and limited to 'just' 1000Nm. Sure it's fast (funny, that!), but it's the comfort and the ease with which it drives slowly that made it even more astonishing.

The new software adapts better to detected browsers, meaning Tapatalk isn't needed.

Ta.

The 'Other European Cars' sub-forum should resolve to http://bimmersport.co.nz/forum/32-other-european-cars/, but for some reason redirects to http://www.eurosport.org.nz/.

Check the coolant level regularly and ensure it's not overfilled. It could be accumulated condensation in the exhaust as a result of sitting for a while in cold weather.

Oil typically causes black or blue smoke, so this is probably a water (coolant) related issue. Are you losing coolant? Has the engine overheated at all? Where does the temperature needle normally sit? Looks like moisture is being burned off. Check cylinder compression or preferably get a leakdown test done... Could be head gasket related, or (hopefully not) a tiny crack in the cylinder head.

Another not-TradeMe, but another great build. https://www.mecum.com/lots/CA0816-244391/1979-bmw-320i-resto-mod/

Ask Andy - Ethrty320. He was breaking one (or more) E36s.

http://bimmersport.co.nz/topic/56139-sold-17x85-et13-acs-type-2-reps/

Saw that on the conversion I did. I'll see if I can find the details. It's fixable.

Unfortunately the old software was kinda end-of-life (my perception - I've not spoken to James) and getting support for it may have proven difficult. Hence the change. (Change... I appreciate you'd not necessarily agree with 'upgrade'! )

Not possible. They're different... Give it some time and James a chance to tweak the software.

Easy fix. At the top right of the page is a link to 'Mark site read'. Click that, and everything is read. Only new stuff will show when you hit 'Unread content' (formerly known as new posts, or whatever).

I posted in the Forum questions bit. The is the same software I'm moderating elsewhere. Loads of functionality.

Sweet!

Could just be air in the system. Bleed it, then bleed it again.

The rear door is the one that has me kinda stumped. Conceptually, at least - I've not gone poking around to look at it. When locked, the locking pin is down as you'd expect. And (assuming the sequence of alarm fob/key/correct door lock) is found, the rear door unlocks and the pic rises. It's just that it doesn't seem possible to unlock the rear door once it has been locked via the central locking. Something I have just remembered: sometimes,when the doors have been locked, you can hop in the driver's seat, insert the key into the ignition, press the button on the alarm fob and then all the doors will unlock. I had wondered if autoWATCH system was designed to work in conjunction with the EWS II in the car, but that doesn't make much sense if you have to be inside the car and the key in the ignition for it to function.

Interesting (if you like that sort of thing) little problem with locking the car. Separate to the ignition key, there is a remote alarm fob, with a single button, on the keyring. One push - one siren blip and light flash - and the alarm is activated. there is also an immobiliser component to this. However, the doors do not lock. A second push - two siren blips and two light flashes - and the alarm is off. If you're fairly quick, you can get in and start the car. Take a little too long, and once you have turned the key to position 2 you need to press the alarm fob button again to release the immobiliser. Locking the car is another conundrum. I have yet to successfully lock the driver's door. Using the key in the driver's door lock will sometimes lock the other three doors, the boot and the filler cap. You can however still open the driver's door. This activity does not set the alarm, but may set the immobiliser. The driver's door lock action doesn't feel 'correct' and is certainly not as precise as the lock on the passenger side. If you then unlock the car from the driver's door (bearing in mind the door wasn't locked anyway) it may or may not unlock the other doors. And if you try to start the car it may or may not start, even following deactivating the immobiliser as described above. In this situation, take the keys out of the car, go to the passenger side front door, unlock the car, come back to the driver's side and the car will generally start (after deactivating the immobiliser). However... We have found ourselves in the situation where the driver's side rear door does not unlock, and the locking pin is ineffective. You can lift it, but it is as though it is completely disconnected - it has no effect and flops down again when released - and it is not possible to open the door. It may be coincidental but the driver's door handle has to be lifted to the very top of it's travel to open the door, which means lifting the handle, pressing the locking button on the inside of the door, and slamming it closed with the handle up is pretty difficult. Someone has had the driver's side rear door card off at some point. We've worked around this so far but I obviously want to sort it. Aside from being a bit pedantic about having my cars 'right', I guess it's a kinda sorta security issue... I've had a read of the Bentley manual and I think we are dealing with the EWS II - I've had the key apart and aside from the CR2025 battery which is dead so the LED doesn't light up, there's a chip in there. The alarm fob is from autoWATCH, a Kiwi company based in Auckland with other agencies across the country. Someone with more disposable income than I seem to have would probably visit them and ask them to sort things out! Any suggestions? I've provided as much info as I can remember, but questions may jog my memory. Or I can find out more.