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Everything posted by gjm
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Coolant flange refitted. Thought I'd be clever and fit the hoses first, then fit the flange. The idea was that this might help orient the flange correctly, simplifying fitting the securing bolts. How wrong I was... My hands are scraped and bruised, and my fingertips feel numb. Topped up coolant, drove it around a bit, saw the low coolant light come one, tightened the breather screw next to the reservoir ? (duh - forgot to do that to start with) , topped up coolant again, drove some more... No sign of any leaks. Will check again in the morning.
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Refitted the coolant flange on the back of the 318Ci engine.
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Stumbled across this on Drivetribe... https://drivetribe.com/p/how-well-do-you-know-your-bmw-e-LPtCAlxhQAyhF67UZ0WPNA?iid=aXefINjGSlGAwUtIwyuzeQ
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There's very little I can't do, but quite a lot of not done, and a fair bit I don't know how to do (yet). And by 'do', I mean 'do properly'. Not quite getting WINZ to pay for stuff... I didn't know they'd do that! I'll have to ask. ???
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Got the broken-off piece of a coolant flange out of the unreachable part of the back of the M43 in the 318Ci. Changed the oil and filter on Mrs M's Baur. Had some thoughts about what to do next.
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I love Z8s. ❤️
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Sounds like me! I try to make up what I lack in skill or training by massive attention to detail. I know when something is wrong, and won't leave it in that state. And I certainly have no money!
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Progress. An old, cheap screwdriver modified to ¯¯¯\___ did the trick. Managed to catch the back of my hand on the clips securing pipes to the bulkhead, of course... ? A couple of bits fell down behind the engine. Running my finger around the hole it now feels clear of bits of plastic - just needs a clean. (Once I've mopped up the blood from the back of my hand...) Why can't people do a job properly? (I'm certain Glenn has seen far more than his share of bodges...)
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I've just tried a slightly-longer-than-stubby screwdriver, and it's too long. I'm hoping that the recess in the head is a little deeper than the piece of plastic which has broken off, so I can get behind it a bit. The right gear is the immediate issue! I'll make something, if necessary. I'm quite happy to spend a bit of time sorting this and ensuring it's clean before fitting the new part. That could be the tool I make! Although I may start with an old screwdriver and see how that goes.
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The replacement isn't a genuine part, but the broken one is. I thought about a genuine part for the replacement but price and availability played against that. The replacement is from Meyle, so not a knock-off cardboard item from somewhere we've never heard of. This cannot be the first time this has happened - it's probably fairly common. I just need to work out how to best resolve it. (Most preferably without removing the cylinder head!) I suspect that something like a dentist's pick may be useful, but I don't have one. Obviously I need to avoid getting detritus into the waterways, too, although I'll flush everything through again anyway.
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Good engines, good cars. Remove the EGR and throw it away. Swirl flaps you can do yourself - buy some blanks online. Mine came from Ireland.
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318Ci - fog light bulbs. Coolant flange woes...
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Today I replaced the fog light bulbs. Those who have done this will know it's not quite a straightforward as replacing the bulbs - jack up the car, remove the front wheels, undo lots of small bolts, undo a couple of screws, manipulate plastic pieces to release the lower one, and only then can you see where the fog light bulbs go. <sigh> Saving grace is that they are the cheaper type H4B bayonet fitting, and not the much more expensive H11 one I thought they might be. Yippee. Short-lived celebrations, though. We've been losing a little coolant from the back of the engine - that'll be the flange (p/n 11531708808): Common problem, and not an expensive part. (There's evidence of the similar pipes at the front of the engine having been replaced already.) It's a bit of a PITA - remove the cabin airfilter and tray, remove pipes, undo a couple of 10mm AF bolts that you can't see, and remove the flange. Or... Remove most of it. Can you spot the difference? Previous owner's boyfriend - the 'mechanic' - strikes again. The last part of this flange is still in the cylinder head. In an all-but inaccessible position. Worse, whoever did this (it wasn't me - this is old damage!) then slapped loads of gunk around the broken flange before replacing it and overtightening the securing bolts. I'm hoping I can sort this without removing the cylinder head, and have asked another forum member for some pics of the back of a M43 cylinder head so I can see what I'm dealing with. <sigh> Remarkably, I've not even started swearing yet.
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How well I know that feeling! Remember the 318Ci we bought...? (SJ - @EUROHO -knows it, too.) Yep - I'm struggling to keep my spending down. Replacing foglight bulbs today, and doing some remedial work on the cooling system (that flange on the back is a pig to get off, and worse to get back on!)
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Seconded. Paul (at MillAnd) is very good. Give him your chassis number and he'll ensure you get the correct part, or he'll check that the number you give him is the right one. Fitting is fun. Not. Can certainly be done at home, though.
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Of course - apologies. I drawing on knowledge of the M54.
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In the wiring connector, about 10-12" back from the light housing. One of those tiny little ribbon-type contacts had corroded inside the plug.
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As those who were at the coffee meet at the beginning of the month saw, we had an issue with the rear right side indicator. The right hand indicators all worked, but flashed at double speed; hazard lights all worked and flashed at normal speed. The rear right indicator wasn't as bright as the left side - bulbs were swapped, but problem persisted on the right side. Found the connection... Tiny, fiddly little contacts which had some corrosion on them, raising the resistance in the circuit enough to fool the circuit sensor into thinking a bulb was out. Much fiddling with tiny abrasives and working the connection later and problem solved. Good connection, correct brightness, no double-speed flashing.
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If it had ever been made (this is an hommage) it would be a 2002Tii coupe.
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That's nice. Great colour too.
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Everyone is so hung up on AC this, Motorsport that, and Hartge the other - those are the rarest bits. The underlying car is the same. Manual? An automatic is fine, unless you're in a lot of hurry on backroads or similar.. $6750 is fairly strong money for an E30 even now. Lot's of adverts for them, not so many selling... Unless they are really good, in which it's a justifiable price.
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Cooling system!!! Pipes, thermostat... If it's misfiring that's often due to gummed up lifters (due to poor oil maintenance). Replacement is the answer. Oil consumption - often due to worn piston rings. OK - that makes it sound bad, but they're not. The S (&M) 54 engines are great. Long-lived, typically reliable, and fun to drive.
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Sorted the dodgy indicator on the rear right of the 318Ci. Corroded connection.
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Nuffin'. So far. I did have a good and friendly chat with the hiring manager post-interview while we walked around the main site I'd be at (although I could be anywhere from the top of Coromandel down to Palmy). That went on for a good 30 minutes or more - applicants not worthy of further consideration don't get the tour. But that's all I have at the moment. I have seen another job I'd really quite like (and probably enjoy) over in Hawkes Bay (again). I'm working up an application for that one.