handgrenade

You should look into getting an aftermarket seat as their seat backs go higher. What entry angle are you running from the mounting locations at the rear to your seat? Motorsport requirements state a minimum angle for the belts for the reasons you mentioned .. Compression of the spine in a high energy impact. A harness installed and worn incorrectly can do more harm than good in an accident. I have seen aftermarket harness bars which are bolt in and gives you the higher angle. I just loop around my cage but for those who want to keep their rear seats the bolt on option is available

Again .. Do you have a source? Just hear say in her so far

AFE intake .. Unfortunately broke the silly plastic coolant hose. Why plastic!!! Looped it with high temp oil hose. The cold air box is on the way .. In a work mates luggage. Sounds nice. Performance increase probably negligible.

Those are some nice stock headers!!

I found the 4 point to be fine .. The only thing is that if you don't tighten the lap belts enough then the two shoulder belts pull up the buckle. The 5th point is good for stopping that and keeping the laps at your hips

Any material to back up that k band is no longer used by the police? Most of my falses are k band alerts ..

Epic birthday present!!

hey andy i need a new 'server' machine to play movies on my tv and run ummm downloads of perfectly legal viewing entertainment. (old one died) will a core2 duo be happy with that? my gaming rig has subbed in temporarily and it seems a little overkill to run an hdmi output and download stuffs

ive had the same concerns .. with 280kms on my engine I am expecting many ponies to have escaped the stable. However it seems to hold it's own against e46 m3s .. (in controlled situations of course), however can't judge much by that .. will wait until I get my exhaust and get it chipped on a dyno to see what it's putting out ..

each to their own and it sounds like your plan may work .. but I would disagree with some of that .. any engine, even with forged whatever won't live long with detonation and/or preignition. one of the best things you can do (what I consider most important) is get your fueling right. the first thing I would do is to make sure you can adjust the timing and fuel. (ECU) then make sure your fuel system is capable to support the power youre after, and even some headroom. (Injectors, Fuel Pump) then build all the usual turbo bits .. manifolds, intercooler, turbo etc. Then using a wideband o2 and a dyno, get it tuned. If you're running high compression factory engine, keep the on boost mixtures on the rich side. I would also suggest dropping the rpm limit a little. if you think of the components in your engine, high rpm = stress on your small end bearings and tension forces in your rods. increased fuel and air on the combustion cycle = compression stresses on your rods most rods are strong in compression (they are relatively short, and have a high i value). bearings may let you down if your oil system is not up to it, or if you run into high temperatures. keep the temps down, fuel/air safe and your revs sensible and a lot of n/a motors will handle a lot of power with standard internals. rb25de nissan engines seeing 300rwkw in d1nz drift machines for an entire season, sr20de engines running daily 260kw etc etc. so once the basics are done, the progression is easy: if you want more power, put in more fuel and air. if increasing the amount of air means driving the turbo outside its efficiency range (hot air) then it is time for a larger turbo (hotside at least). keep adding fuel and air (larger injectors, re-tune). you will reach a point where either previous/inherent weak points in the engine will break under the increased load or something like a bad batch of fuel or a hot day or a popped vac line leading to overboost or oil starvation under hard cornering etc etc etc will grenade your engine. my money is on bearing failure of some sort which will lead to that eventual death .. anyway its all anecdotal. you could do everything right and it could go bang on your first drive. or you could hack it together and run safe for ages. everyone on here will have a different opinion about how to do it.

take care of all family debts. maybe 1 mil for myself the rest to bank, maybe live off the interest. find some sort of occupation which makes me happy. oh yeah hookers and booze.

what is the standard compression ratio? for forced induction, you can do great things with high comp/standard comp engines. of course if you want to push large numbers, best to go forged .. gives you extra head room if your tune/fuel/something goes a little off.

will do, thanks everyone for their responses! have a giant bottle of distilled water in the car.

I thought the police went back to low power x band for their vans? Either way the radar emitter from a van has a very narrow beam spread and low power because they're so close to the road/target. Very hard to pick up as usually there is not much scatter. When it comes to vans .. Not too worried. Will get annoyed at the cost of ticket but better than demerits. And since all the cars blast out ka band wiiide .. Easy to pick up. Laser .. Bad luck

Can get some from overseas but won't be before the weekend!

cool thanks, going to pick up some hose clamps, some antifreeze and some distilled water tomorrow morning. just about to brave the cold to move a few things around.

cheers, might add that to the list before it grenades itself .. !

cheers .. do I need to bleed the thing?

I broke it while pulling out the airbox. but the plastic is quite fragile anyway. Do I need to bleed the system?? Should I fill up the expansion tank? I'm planning to replace the entire line to the expansion tank with high temp hose. No leaks .. after my hose splice, I went for a .. spirited drive and no leaks .. I'll check again tomorrow. Where is the bloody radiator cap??? lol. i miss my japanese cars.

hey guys, on my euro spec nz new e36 m3, there is this stupid plastic pipe which goes from the top of the radiator on the passenger side loops around and goes around the headlight, then up the passenger side of the engine bay to a plastic coolant tank does anyone else have this? its stupid. I broke it by mistake, and babied the car home, the temp gauge never went above half way. I've since replaced the broken plastic pipe by using rubber hose (high temp oil line). has anyone else broken this before? I am thinking of replacing the entire stupid plastic brittle line all the way to the plastic tank thing. is it the radiator overflow tank? or what is it? Thanks oh .. broke this bit right at the hard U bend. bit of a noob here. what is the pipe for? I lost a fair bit of coolant, the plastic tank it goes to .. does that need to be full?

Time to get some higher temp led fogs to match your low beams!

A few months back but the plate reminded me to post it here

It is not the first time a commercial plane has been taken down by military hardware http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korean_Air_Lines_Flight_007 747 shot down by a soviet interceptor .. 260+ dead. All because they flew into then restricted airspace by accident ..

well if there is so much fuel getting dumped in there, you might as well compliment it with more air ... BOOOST

H&R race springs? Will have to bring them in from USA