Olaf

On 9/9/2021 at 7:35 PM, Eagle said:

M10\M20\M30 are all largely the same formula. Simple,  under stressed and refined over many years. I doubt many people were scrapping the car because of engine troubles unlike some of some of these early N series models. BMW parts and procedures may be more readily available, but labour costs aren't getting any cheaper and that's makes up a chunk of the bill. 

Neglected\not have to spend money but still able to get you to A>B is the real definition of reliability for the average person.

Back around '99-'01 in UK M20 (and M30 to a lesser degree) had a reputation for head gasket failure, cambelt and water pump failure.  Clearly a result of neglect (or not updating the head bolts?), but now we're past that, it's understood.

Get you A-B with minimal maintenance => reliability?  I think that's a great distillation!

@Herbmiester you may have some useful experience/info here?

2 hours ago, NZ00Z3 said:

Also suggest that you invest in a new set of bolts that hold the transmission to the engine.  These can be used 1.5 times on average.  They have a special coating on the threads to stop them from galling in the back of the block.  Some people get away with reusing the bolts a couple of times.  Others get a galled bolt half way in on the first clutch change.  This leaves you in a world of pain.  Cutting the bolt off and cutting a new thread or time-sert in a tight place.  Sometimes results in pulling the engine to get access.

This is complete gold Murray @NZ00Z3, banking that one away for (near) future reference!

Having run an N62B44 for 4.5 years and nearly 30k kms, my experience is that the N62 V8 is fekkin' brilliant.  

Sure, valve stem seals are a given (mine were replaced), and this is bad news.  

The coolant tube is a risk, though that risk has two mitigants in the form of annual coolant flush and replacement, and the collapsible tube replacement.  For context, this replacement - should it be needed -  is less costly than the M6x and it's timing chains and guides!

The N62B44 is smooth, very powerful for it's capacity (just compare with M6x), lightweight, and bloody economical on a trip.   In short, another sophisticated modern engine.  It compares very favourably to the N4x motors (which I agree are a disaster).  The N62 needs gaskets to stem oil leaks, and plugs/coils just like M5x motors (or most other BMW non-diesel motors).  What's the big deal?

People were bagging the M54 just five or six years ago; now they're understood.  N52 is approaching the same status (yes, you all know you were freaking out about failing expensive electric water pumps until recently!), and is now becoming accepted and respected.  The N54 is approaching the same (do fix your vacuum and exhaust leaks, don't fack it up with outrageous MHD tunes).

In summary, the N62 is rather good and should absolutely not be lumped in with N42/N46.  N62 simply needs regular maintenance, and does not respond favourably to neglect (like pretty much any BMW except perhaps the M10?).  The N62 is frequently encountered in poor condition after some oik has tried to run them like a Camry.  

If you want bullet-proof out of a BMW you're shopping the wrong badge, buy a Landcruiser.

PS:  One assumes you meant SATAN, not Satin?

How did I miss this thread?  Where did you end up @dirty doogle - Yaris GR sourced?  What a cool project.  A little more 'fun' with the whole global cycle of Covid...

Date: 7 Sept 2021

Distance: 263271 kms

1. New Battery

The batty had become increasingly less cooperative in storage since June, despite the gentle pulsing care of the CTEK MXS 5.0 in maintenance mode.  No sense in flogging the dead horse.  

I consulted the schedule on on RealOEM, and found they equipped 46, 50, 55, and 65Ah battys for the 316i and 318iS.  Existing batty was an AA 3552, which is a DIN53L, 510CCA, 50AH.  (interesting AA no longer recommend this, favouring a DIN55 instead (heavier).  There are plenty of options out there, and I've completely given up on AA Battery Service following really crappy service by them in 2019/20.  

The DIN53L is a relatively small batty, both dimensionally [L=242, W=174, H175, TH=175, all in mm], and in capacity (around 50AH).  A really stonking version can put out 600CCA/60AH, though ~500 CCA/50AH is more commonplace in Niu Zild.  Prices between about $195 (Repco 40 month on special) to over $350 for a Century with 36 month warranty, were found via a quick search.  

What's a fella to do during Lockdown v2.0 eh?  So we ordered a Koba as the quality is good (my e60 is still very happy) and price is reasonable.  Many thanks to @Autoglym for arranging.  The MF55457 is a DIN53LMF.  

Time to get a WoF and some rego.  Spring is here!

PS - it's three years of ownership on 9th Sept. Somehow there's always a necessary anniversary purchase whether I like it or not!

@E28E30 as it's your pride and joy and not a daily, you might want to talk with Jon for a longer-term view of preservation and maintenance.

Auto 38 has closed up.  Jon & Keren will be taking on project work from Marton in the near future.

If it's got to be Wellington, I can firmly recommend All European Service, in Fifeshire Ave.   I had my 855-T5 and e46 Touring serviced by Peter for years before he closed up.  He's recently re-opened in Te Aro.  @E28E30

yep, I agree Alan @Kodachrome there's a few things that are standard maintenance in any e60/61, including ensuring the sunroof drains are running clear (weed whacker line is ideal for this, on a battery drill), the cabin filter intakes being cleared of leaves, and all door and boot seals!  Got to keep the water on the outside of these rather complex vehicles.

28 minutes ago, GorGasm said:

Could be worthwhile if you have the know how:

• 2x Idle actuators
• 2x Throttle actuators
• 4x VANOS soldenoids (used to be $1400US each, now about $500 it seems)
• 2x Ionic control modules
• 1x ABS pump ($4500)
• 1x Alternator voltage regular (cheap enough)

 

The best parts of my E60 M5 experience were:

• 4500-8250rpm thrust was very exciting as there's not much going on below 4500rpm.
• Excellent handling.
• Interior comfort.

 

[deleted - not modular]

And yeah, taking that S85 up toward the redline is very satisfying, and ohhhhhhhhh that sound!  Sex on wheels personified.

Having looked up from beneath e60 M5's on the rack while the essential maintenance is being done, it's certainly packed as tightly as one of my suitcases at the end of a trip abroad.  The N62-powered 545i is comparatively roomy in the engine bay.

I've used Colorlock Leather Care system on my old Volvo 855-T5 to great effect, and for maintenance on my BMWs.  It's great stuff, just follow the instructions.  Needs to be cleaned and (sometimes, abraded with fine sandpaper) before thin layers of toner (dye), before finishing off with the protectant.  I always use Elephant Leather Preservative on top.  I've done steering wheels as well.

I've also used this on leather jackets and bags.  It's excellent system, producing lasting results.

If you're not keen on doing it yourself, contact your local Fibernew rep.  Here in Wellington, Andrew does a brilliant job.

HTH

at the risk of plugging BMW Car Club NZ again, the next issue of DIXI Magazine contains an excellent article on S85 (and 65) Rod Bearings.  Join now, the 36 page colour glossy quarterly magazine is included with your membership!

I guess I'm in the sub-set; I've always been a wagon guy, and I still like to work on my own vehicles (though confess to doing less these days!).

4 hours ago, Michael. said:

I wouldn't compare the two, the V10 is in it's own league. 

Luckily, someone else has done the work so you don't have to!  BMW Car Club NZ magazine DIXI had an excellent article a couple of issues back where an owner compares the e63 M6 with the F13 M6.  

I was fortunate enough to enjoy a brief drive of them both.  The e63 is fabulous, visceral, unique, a great experience.  The F13 is more powerful, waaaay quicker, smoother, a supreme experience.  Two sensational and exciting cars, with different characters; many of the differences not aparrent until you get behind the wheel.

The flipside of that viewpoint is "it's honest, I'm not hiding anything, there's a table full of main dealer receipts, you can see yourself in the side paint.  It's a high-speed touring machine and traveling on NZ roads attracts stone chip at the front; it's not a museum piece as I've travelled the country with my family.  You can see what you're buying, and take it to your trusted painter, or just enjoy it".

If I had the courage to own the totally brilliant e6x M5/M6 - and a garage to put it in, I'd buy this in a heartbeat.

I think he's bought it.

though now - if there was any doubt before, it's gone - you're endorsing drifting. 😐

For the sake of clarity:  no drifting was involved in the rollover I mentioned.  We went from forward motion to rotate 90 degrees/on two wheels sideways in less than half a second... and then bullet time ended and it all sped up.

You're gonna need exhaust hanger hardware too.  Might as well replace your rubbers while you're there.

Git her scanned, could be water pump/thermostat/cooling service time.

PS - I see yellow poking out from underneath, perhaps you've lucked out and the shocks have been done front and rear, and they're *not* Monroes! 

Looks like Bilstein yellow, though if you're really lucky it's Koni Yellows and you're in bizzo.  If they've been thorough the shock mounts, spring seats, bump stops, dust boots have all been done as well.

PPS:  Tyres.  So many e30's enter the parts chain after the combination of wet road + short on RWD experience + cheap-ass tyres.  Take the road less travelled, put the best rubber you can find on your e30.  195/65R14 is starting to get challenging; Hankook K415 is reasonable performance.

1 hour ago, Ghost Chip said:

Although, I do think that drifting in a car that has a roll cage, or even just drifting in a car, is way different than doing skids on a ute that has a (?) couch on the bed/tray with multiple people on it. 

The only point that the cage will help you - unless you're harnessed-in and wearing a helmet - is if you turn it upside down**.  Pretty much every other scenario where it goes remotely wrong sees your head impacting some very hard steel pipe.  Couple that with momentum and you've got fractured skull, brain bleed, and concussion and/or damage.

** and you've probably still whacked your head against the roll cage on the way there.

Drifting a car is all fine until something goes wrong.  You get to figure out how far short your talent deficit was while you tell your insurance company, and hope they're sympathetic to your plight.

I was lucky, I walked out from a rollover that wrote off the car I was a passenger in with just a scratch on my little finger.  YMMV.  Do you want to play the lottery?

now that is a tough call.  I've driven the 135i msport, and it's a capable nasty exciting thing, but not one I can carry my teenage kids in the back of.  I'd expect the 128Ti to be great fun to drive.

OTOH the mk8 is aparrently great, and has a long legacy of GTi's backing it.  I've owned MK2 GTi 16v, driven MK5 GTi & R32 in anger, and MK6 GTi's, I have some idea of just how good a mk8 will be, and no doubt I can stow my kids in a Golf.  

Haven't driven the MK8, (or the 128Ti), I think the MK8 is race favourite at the starting gate, would need to evaluate both.  For my use case, most likely 3 series wins.

it all looks fixable!  Though expect to fix a lot more than what the previous owner has neglected or butchered.

Lightweight, a poor-man's CSL!  A slicktop 316i coupe is the lightest e30, they have little sound deadening.  In rude health and with good suspension, they're a quick car through the twisties and can hold their own with 325i's (and some much bigger cars too).  Make no mistake, on a straight road with the chance to stretch it's legs, the torque and extra HP of the 325 will eat the 316i.  Horses for courses!

Air Filter: I doubt the cone/pod filter is going to give you any more HP, paper filter elements are cheap and the factory intake will be quieter and give colder air.  Selling the pod might get you some dough for a rear muffler.

Rubber: Essentially you'll find a 30+ year old e30 has probably been pretty well neglected, and you can expect to work your way through every rubber bush and mount in the car, once you've got it on the road.  Engine and gearbox mounts will look okay, but that rubber has lost it's elasticity, and replacing them improves NVH.  Same for rear subframe mounts, RATBs, diff bush.  No need to go to Poly, the OE/OEM rubber solutions are proven, inexpensive, and reliable.  

Check your fuel hoses!  easy to replace under the hood, you might as well replace the fuel filter while you're at it, it won't have been done in years, possibly decades.  Be sure to use EFI high pressure rated hose.

Lubricants:  Time for gearbox oil and diff oil.  I'm running Penrite Synthetic, don't mix them up (get the back oil into the middle and vice versa).  One assumes you've already done the engine oil and filter with quality kit (I like the Mahle)

Brakes:  Slider pins - unless they're badly pitted - can be cleaned up in your battery drill with a scotch-brite pad and Brakekleen.  I like the ATE silicone brake grease.  Brake hoses are cheap, give the existing ones a good look over.  ARB bushes and endlinks are cheap too.

316i has solid front rotors, you can get six cylinder calipers which allows you to upgrade to vented front discs, a little more meat.  Two types of front calipers, both run the same pads.  The racers prefer the ATE calipers which makes 'em more pricey (one can run brass bushings in place of rubber - though for street use not really a consideration); the Girlings are fine.  You can take your time, recon a set of calipers (seals, bleed nipples, boots, sliders, paint) then install with new hoses, pads, rotors.  Bear in mind the six cyl calipers/vented rotors are incompatible with the factory steel wheels if you ever wanted to go back there, once the pads are worn in.  You could always extract some more cash to fund your brakes by selling those D-window steelies and stretched tyres and score some bottle caps for next to nothing, ride the coming fashion resurgence of bottle caps being uber-cool and authentic 80's e30.  

Stay cool:  Give your cooling system attention, replace aging hoses, check thermostat bleed and flush it, replace with BMW Blue coolant and demineralised water.  Check passenger side carpets for glycol, this is the age that those heater matrix are letting go.

HTH

Got one in my parts stash waiting to go on, along with high pressure fuel hose.  Mine's a Rein brand, I'm finding their stuff of good quality and durable.

1 hour ago, Kees said:

Bimmer.Work seems to work for me. Mdecoder used to work for me but when I created my registry of NZ 540s I used it so many times it thinks I am a commercial entity so no longer works 😅

try cleaning out your cookies etc, and go in from another IP address eg VPN.  Should be fine.

I've been using mdecoder daily over the last couple of weeks while I look for a new car.  Works well.

AA Batteries these days are rubbish, even maintained with a modern seven-stage calcium/AGM capable charger. I now buy KOBA, good quality for the money.
 @jom if you're not driving the e36 regularly, best to hook up the batty on maintenance cycle on your fancy new charger.  HTH.