Herbmiester

I am very keen to do a manual swap on my E36 and have an M54 rotating assembly that I will likely try and make work. I also have an Getrag 220 pedals etc. I am wondering if the 220 will be ok for the torque of the M52B30 hybrid. What I would like to know is more about the ZF boxes. Consensus is they are stronger but what models fit? E36 328i S5D 320Z I assume will fit what about the S5 39 from the E46? Any other boxes that are worth a look? Also will both boxes work with an M20 single mass flywheel and clutch? f anyone has any bits mentioned here let me know.

Not for the purists but majorly impressive engineering.

I like the M3, I'm sucker for Ultra Violet.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/bmw/engines/listing-2241505048.htm?rsqid=rahp1-68f71e1a2af24d19abac69a0cf6becec

Brent dont be shy to do the MHD flash yourself, its quite straight forward. Instead on the Alpina flash you may wish to consider the XHP flash, again do it yourself.

For power upgrades MHD is your best bet, a new intercooler and charge pipe are highly reccomended.

FWIW My 2007 e92 has 90k on the clock and the rear arms were a bit worn but the front end was pretty good.

Jon. The e90 92 cars front end is not complicated, any suspension specialist will be able to dianose it. As mentioned in an earlier post perhaps you might want to consider M3 control arms up front, not only do you get new bushes but better front end geometry. FWIW E90 front end is completely different to E46.

Yes that or a cheap M Factory diff would be my first choice.

Do you know what the breakawy value is? I think he mentioned 25% lockup but I coudnt see the breakaway value.

I read a bit about the phantom grip LSD a few years back and while this is certainly similar the friction plates and ground down spider gears would seem to offer much greater bearing surface.

Hmmm could you run 235 40 17's on them ok?

I have watched this a few times now but not sure what I think yet. The video was on a 188mm diff and I have a 210mm in my 2007 335i so possibly more surface area for the friction disks. Any way have a watch and lets discuss. BTW he does a review in a later video and its pretty positive.

I bought it from Wainuiomata.

MHD is easy to use follow the instructions and use an appropriate battery charger and you are all set. JB4 is just not necessary, its a lot of money spent for what a flash tune will achieve. MHD are well advanced in thier map design so you get proven safe maps plus you get other nice features like data logging, throttle maps and torque by gear. Map swapping is something people say the want but rarely ever use. That said once you have MHD installed map changes are pretty quick. However before you tune do the following. New plugs, new intercooler, walnut clean if kms are pasy 70k and for peace of mind a new charge pipe.

You should try MHD first.

Nice to see such an honest description, GLWS.

Nice car. I think you should save your money with the JB4 and just use MHD.

These might work offset looks right. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/listing-2209222562.htm?rsqid=1f090e83f4714287ad3fde5dd24401b0-003 or these https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/wheels-tyres/alloy-wheels/listing-2204574110.htm?rsqid=1f090e83f4714287ad3fde5dd24401b0-003 if you want 19's personally I think 18 is the sweet spot, but for track use 19's may be better.

You would likely get away with the stock intercooler in these temperatures with 100 octane. However it will get warmer and you will need to do it at some stage. A test done in winter in California (so not really cold) with a good aftermarket intercooler was the difference between the DME pulling timing on MHD tunes vs not. From memory on a stock car the intercooler swap alone was worth around 20HP and the temp difference was quite noticeable at around 30 degrees c. The end tank design on the stock unit also has an effect on pressure drop and flow. I will see if I can find the test as it was pretty comprehensive. All that said an intercooler swap is pretty easy and not hugely expensive, if you look at the size of the stock BMW cooler its pretty small for a 3l engine. On my car the new cooler was noticeable with better throttle response and more up top.

Here's what you want. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-5-piece-m-upgrade-bmwmcakit You dont need aftermarket wheels just good rubber on the stock rims plus the M3 front end. Understeer is reduced and you can then focus on getting the power to the ground, that's the BIGGEST challenge.

Why not stay with a standard setup and invest the cash in the best tyres you can afford? Then front arms and LSD. After all my research that's probably where I will end up. I do have a 9 inch wide rear so could fit a 265.

Well the 100kg saving between the two is probably the biggest advantage. The Brakes however are a bit of a toss up as the piston count is up but the rotor diameter is down. For the size of the car the e92 isn't really overweight just not lightweight.

I have dried it out with sun and hair dryer and now tying vacuum.

That's exactly what I am removing , black compost.