jin108

This sold months ago. Lazy dealer.

Yup your right i should check my links before i post them It works really well and surprising how nimble it makes the car despite its size and weight.

Thought i would give a plug for this 550i for sale on trademe. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1064986264 For $19k this is a steal and is fully optioned m-sport including comfort access, comfort seats, logic 7 sound system, dynamic drive*, active steering, 19" rims, remus exhaust and a 2 year autosure extreme cover warranty to go with it. I have seen this car myself and it is absolutely mint. *dynamic drive prevents body roll see here and here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUsokHgmyio. I think its a rare option on E60s.

Would have been more interesting if they used a GP bike and raced around IOM.

"Yes that is correct sir. I put an aftermarket IC, charge pipe and exhaust on the car but didnt touch the ECU its stock and I have no idea why the turbos are blown"

I was kidding dude. I guess i should have used sarcasm tags.

Did the coro loop on my bike yesterday and saw a very nice AW M5 in its natural habitat, the gas station. Driver was pouring some oil into it as well. Also saw an E36 M3 on the northern last night being driven like a maniac. Number plate was "M3AN".

OP would you really be happy if the retailer ordered the part from ebay and charged you a mark-up?

I notice theres something else listed incorrectly with the car

Its possible the seller had no idea their car was a 2008 and not 2010. It was first registered in Japan not NZ. think the lesson here is to check when buying a car.

Depends what your interpretation of "year of car" is. I know id be more interested in when a car was built than when it was first registered.

Interesting i didnt think there was so much hate for the E60 M5. Personally i think the S85 engine is incredible (and the S65 too). But numbers dont lie prices on E60 M5s are taking a beating.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1039131262.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1027100103.htm Is it because the older one is NZ new it has same asking price even though its 6 years older, previous generation and has 55k more kms on it?

What turbos are you looking at?

If you have comfort access them is not rechargeable. Otherwise it should charge when engaged in the ignition.

Yes i got this to replace a bad coil. Works fine.

I use the St 1 98RON map (with BP 98). There is a noticeable difference with the 95RON map, not huge but its there.

Getting a CEL after a tune is the norm rather than the exception. Swap the #5 coil with another and see if the code follows the coil. Same thing happened to me and just bought a new coil off ebay. You might not need to change plugs of there are no more codes or timing corrections. -8 psi is normal just the way it reads boost pressure. Mine is the same. 2FA3 code i don't know what it is think it's nothing. I have this and lots of others but doesn't seem to do anything. Looked it up in the Bentley manual also told me nothing. Wouldn't worry about it. From memory it might have something to do with the ecu being updated and triggering the code when you get CEL.

I wouldn't rule out the shop screwing up and not changing the o-ring. Most likely is been on there for a long time. The top one wasn't even on. Others may disagree but imo there's no way an o-ring would go hard and brittle after just 8 months.

Did you figure out why the oil filter housing was leaking?

This is what the 0-rings should be. Cant tell from the pic if OPs filter has it or not. Imo it should be clearly visibly protruding and not flattened out even after 8 months. The pic posted above is not helpful as the o-ring doesnt even look like its on.

Enlarged the pic but i still cant tell for sure if thats an o-ring flattened out on the bottom rung. If it is then it not likely to be only 8 months old.

Ive been getting a lot of PMs asking about the MHD app so best if i update this thread with my comments. With the app you can flash OTS maps which are by all accounts very safe and conservative. You can also flash a custom map or backend map to use in conjunction with JB 4. If you are just starting out its better to get MHD as its cheaper than all the other options, easier to use and is constantly being updated. Cobb has ceased new development of their maps. And arguably its better than JB4 as its not a piggyback but a ecu flash. MHD is tied to your phone, google account and vehicle. So if you ever sell your car the app becomes useless to you. But, if you purchase on a standalone device and google account you can onsell it with your car. Cheap android devices are easily available. I bought cheap ebay cables which worked for me. No guarantee they will for you too but these are the cables I got: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251698392855 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Micro-USB-Male-To-USB-2-0-Female-OTG-Adapter-Cable-For-Samsung-Galaxy-S3-S4-Mini-/151532877345?hash=item2348103621:g:sCUAAOSwGzlTxcKg I recommend you get a 3-way OTG cable not the single. That way you can charge your phone through the USB port at the same time you are logging. When first flashing I had a charger hooked up but its not necessary if you have a good battery. Before you flash backup the ECU as you cant do this later. Or you can just flash to map 0 if you want to go to stock if you dont have the ECU backup to flash back. Once the car is flashed then its time to start logging. Go WOT from 2500RPM in 3rd gear then shift to 4th at 6000RPM and keep going for a bit (do this discretely as you will be going well over 100kms at 6000RPM in 3rd - i think 160 or so). Upload results to datazap and post on E90forum for feedback. Using a higher boost map will show up all the weak points in your car and you are very likely to get limp mode / check engine light. MHD can read codes too which will help. In my case I had vacuum leaks and boost leaks. Replaced all the vacuum lines and cleaned out the diverter valves and disconnected to get a bov sound. Im running the Stage 1 FMIC map although I dont have a FMIC. In summer will either get FMIC or use a less aggresive map. This map targets 15psi (stock is 8 psi) and totally transforms the car. Heres some old logs I took using the St 1 FMIC map - im comfortable using this with no aftermarket FMIC as the IATs are nice and low and not getting any timing corrections. http://datazap.me/u/jin/log-1439094819?log=0&data=4-24 http://datazap.me/u/jin/log-1439095087?log=0&data=4-24 Any questions id be happy to try and answer them. Enjoy!

-1. Perhaps im mentally challenged but I cant see o-rings where they should be. There are supposed to be 2 - one large one on the lip of the cap and another small one at the top nipple.