nzsapper

Yes dealer, we have chat about cost as I got the feeling it wont be issue by the language they were using. I

Back Story Car went in for leaking Vanos in Nov, car all done early Dec parts ordered ex Germany, car went back two weeks later, hadn't ordered enough seals according to second mechanic, wait another 10 days seals arrived car put back together, not done well, car doesn't even leave shop new parts ordered got car back, sealant all over valve cover and streaks running down windscreen and wing mirror (suspect detergent left to dry on glass) cant get this off Taken back yesterday re noise So far wksp have been excellent and have said everything will be repaired, including windscreen/mirror When showing the head mechanic the broken seal, it completely broke off and wasn't too impressed by workmanship and said it will all need to be redone. Funny you mention oil - I swear I can smell hot oil every now and again I will keep you all posted

Yes noise repetition increases with rpm Took it to BMW, they also said it sounds like a vacuum issue, taking it back tonight to leave it there so they can have a proper poke around tomorrow.

Yeah recording isn't a very good comparison compared to actual, as for the where its coming from, at first I thought it was to lower rear engine, definitely engine block level vs being higher in the engine. To be honest I m probably asking too much for someone to guess The noise is faint until hood is lifted and that is when you hear a noise likened to a some vacuum issue but then at the same time you could say its a knock (hope not). Will try your suggestion. Thanks

Afternoon all, after recent engine work, some vanos seals done , I have strange noise coming from the engine. I only noticed the noise this morning on start without the radio going, sorry recording isnt giving a very good representation of noise, to me it sounds like air or somethings broken. I have not noticed any issues with performance or the like. Picture is another piece of poor workmanship I found this morning from this one job. Going into workshop on Monday re the poor work and hoping this is noise is a simple fix that is related to head off and vanos seals done. Any thoughts much appreciated Cheers 20200201_191033.mp4

Random act of a good bugger yesterday at supermarket Sun was out yesterday in Palmy so I risked a visit to the supermarket in the M3, saw a nice Alfa 159 wagon decided to park next to it (therefore person cares about their car and wont let his door hit mine). While parking this guy walks up to my car and asks if I would like a new mag wheel for my car for free, it was the owner of the 159 who at one stage had an E36 M3 and this wheel had been sitting in his garage for years. He wouldn't accept payment so if you are ever in Palmy for the night and need a motel the manager /owner of http://citycorporate.co.nz/ is a good bugger and I assume he would run his motel the same way. He also had a Gulia in the garage

Nice 635 in the carpark at Manfield today

Fixed, took seat out fully declined seat and heard a click, fixed, probably didn't need to take seat out in hindsight. I Was surprised re the weight of the seat, a lot heavier than I expected.

Hi looking for info on how to fix my passenger vader seat, I have search the net and no luck yet hoping someone can point me in right direction I fully declined the seat and when I returned it to upright it wouldn't lock in place. Elecs still all work, have poor vid of what it does now, Im assuming something plastic has broken Any help appreciated Cheers paul 20190922_175824.mp4

Is the E36 out of Waikanae , ex 1996 M3 rego?

Cheers - not my car belongs to chap at work, assume he must have something wrong to run them first. Will pass on

Looking for help re fault codes Chap at work has 2007 320i ran a scan and has the following codes, I know absolutely nothing about fault codes so please excuse my ignorance in this area. I have tried to find info and what I find doesn't look like below He is wondering what should he deal with first A0AA CAS:Control unit fault present A0AB CAS: Control unit fault not present A0B2 CAS: Supply terminal 30E/30L not present AOBO CAS: Input brake lights, implausible not present A0B5 CAS: Fault road speed signal present 2F9E DME: Thermal oil-level sensor not present 2A6F DME: Valvetronic minimum lift exceeded present What does all this mean?, thanks in advance

Went to the hot rod swap meet at Manfield today and got my timings wrong. So popped over to track where testing for tomorrows race meet was on , couple of Bimmers on track and a number in pits, hopefully weather holds for tomorrow and I'll make a better effort, in the meantime short clip of E9 on track. cruise_in.mp4 2_BMW.mp4 e9_csl.mp4

Same I been running fk 453 as an apparent replacement to the FK452 which I have informed is being run out. No issues with seem to be a pretty good all round tyre, was also informed by a few tyre independant tyre dealers that for my not so common size 235/40/17 they are good option. Would say I have only got around 12000 - 15000km out of my rears

Kelvin just seen your question. Well still a huge improvement and loving the ride, sadly didnt fix the "lean" entirely but enough to keep me happy for now. Just looking at new tires now currently running Falken FK453s but want a change.

Some light entertainment for the BMW fan, apoligies if this has already been posted

Kelvin I had the exact same issues, sounded like a lump cam, rich fuel smell, car rocked when stationary at lights, issue was intermitant and was fixed by replacing 02 sensors. Andy at Manawatu BMW worked on my car and fixed it. I know this dosent help as you stated you dont have sensors but I had same problem and now fixed Regards Paul

Olaf The new springs have completely transformed the car, I didnt realise how bad the car had become over time and the Turner motorsport write up is basically bang on and couldnt have put it better myself "H&R OE sport springs provide a minimal lowering and still maintain ride comfort. Only from H&R, OE Sport Springs are for those who desire a slight increase in handling and control. You can expect reduced body roll and superb ride comfort with better driving convenience. OE Sport Springs provide a subtle upgrade"

All Thought Id post some before and after pics of my new H&R Lowering springs fitted I have spent much time trying to get to the bottom of why my E36 was leaning, changed shocks, had some bushes done all made no difference and never were going to make any difference to the ride hieght issues 1.Tried for OEM springs - only rears avalible at $558 2. Locally purchased springs all where going lower the car further than I wanted , plus a number of firms didnt even bother to call me back when trying to find something local 3. Looked overseas - all pretty much the same as what was avalible here , except for Turner motorsports H&R OE Sport Springs for 1995 E36 M3 . https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4343-hr-oe-sport-spring-set-e36-m3-1995-only-1996-99-with-additional-parts/ $247 us , $164 us postage and $194 NZ for UPS here in NZ to sort out the customs side Drop .7in in front and .3in in rear or 18mm front and 7.5mm in rear. , ended close at 13mm front and 5mm rear 4. Before LHS - worst side for my OCD, the front left was really pissing me off. 5. Pretty happy with ride height now and the imbalance is not so noticable to me anymore it is still there and I do wonder why?, meh, I assume things still need to settle and it may even out. 6. But not all went well at Manawatu BMW(not their fault) and the simple job turned into alittle nightmare. Approx 12mths ago I paid a suspension specialist in Palmy to fit new front Bilstien struts, they did . But they had according to Manawatu BMW crossed threaded the top nut and had most likely put it on with a rattle gun consequently the main shaft was striped in the 1.3 hrs it took to get it off. This the second issue I have had since the suspension specialisted worked on my car on that occasion. Taken to machinist who said , shock/strut needed to be pulled apart and the main shaft need to be rebuilt so a new thread could be done. Was going to cost over the price of a new bilstien replacement strut. So had to purchase a new strut, now need to approach said suspension specialist and try get some funds back - dont fancy my chances.

Heres my one and only experience with Swann over the last 2 weeks 1. Asked for a quote for my M3, 25k cover for $428 per year, unlimited ks, couldnt be a DD, cheap I thought, might have to go with them, then she asked if I belonged to a club, said yes (BMW), no not on the list, if they were 20% discount applied.wow I thought thats bloody good must be a catch somewhere. 2. Emailed back asking for details around a club getting on said list, nothing heard for 5 working days 3. Received email from different person apoligizing for delay but the individual who deals with Club discounts had been on leave and but was back at work now and will be in touch shortly. 4. Two days later no reply - send short cheeky email saying he must still be on leave as I havent heard anything, I was now expecting someone to get onto it, 5. No wrong! nothing, so 2 days later send another email about thier lasksidasical approach in replying to me. Stating I would add comments to the Swann Insurace topic with the online BMW community 6. Received email apoligising about not replying and that chap who had been on leave is on sick leave, basically just another excuse and the really didnt give a toss 7. Basically saw this as excuse after excuse for not replying, personally I will not proceed any futher with them as I took this as insight in the way they conduct thier business, hopefully for those who are with them and they have to make a claim that I am wrong in my assumption. Classic Cover were $628 per year witn a number of conditions so will try AA

Cheers Sadly I didnt have the patience today and after a short discussion it became clear to me that they held my goods that I have spent much time (18mths) deceiding what will the right look for my car and if I didnt pay them I wasnt getting them...........I paid and will put it down to a lesson Will try Fedex next time Will post before and after photos once new springs fitted

Hi all Question for those how have imported parts using UPS As a first time importer of parts from the US I am alittle confused over my charges for importation and the way they contacted me re payment. UPS is the postal service used at NZ $164 for the 12.5kg of parts (H&R springs, Turner motorsports) worth $460 total bill $625 Items arrive in Auckland (within 3 days, yay) I then get a phone call from UPS NZ to say I owe another $194 in duty. I calculated it at around $140ish, used Customs own web site estimator for this and didnt see anything about these other add on charges that are on my UPS invoice. DESCRIPTION GST IN NZD CHARGES IN NZD Customs Duty = 19.05 Customs Entry Fee = 52.67 Customs GST = 97.66 Disbursement Charge 15%=1.65 = 11.00 Customs EDI Fee and Security Fee 15%=1.58 = 10.50 Total $194.11NZ Just find the way they contacted me strange in that I had to ask them for an invoice, is this normally the proceedure you'd expect from UPS NZ (email address is from [email protected], so not quite UPS) . Does this appers to be legit? Thanks in advance Paul

Try Crab Fram Winery for lunch on the way into Napier https://www.crabfarmwinery.co.nz/winery-restaurant/

Cheers Guys Appreciated the advice Think I will be sticking to OEM size. Like the Bimmertips site as well

Season Greetings all I have just been to price up a new set of rubber all round for the 93 M3, tyre guy at Cooper Tyres did some quick calcs and said I will be fine to run 245/45/17s all round instead of the normal 235/40/17s saving around 20% on the purchase price?. Has anyone else done this with thier 3.0 M3 with non staggered Style 22s and if so did ti work? Cheers Paul