emandru

Interestingly enough it was cranking but no start and confirmed no fuel or spark. . That's what threw me off too as I would have thought that an EWS fault would prevent cranking too.

Thanks Brent. I ended up checking the whole system multiple times and then decided to go over the EWS system. Ended up being the key ring antenna. One of the wires had broken. Soldered back up and started first key :).

Hi everyone, I'm looking for some help once again as I'm stumped on a no start issue with my car. A little while back i did a trip up to Whangarei and car drove perfectly. Parked up for the day and when I came back to start the car up that evening it took numerous cranks to get her going again. About 10 mins of trying? Fast forward, I got back down to Auckland parked up and then tried to start the car again the next day. Started first go. And then the second day, same difficult start. Now it wont start at all so I've tried the follow. The engine turns over and cranks but will not start. 1. Took the fuel relay out and jumped pin 30 and 87 in the relay holder. Can hear the fuel pump turn on. 2. Swapped the fuel relay out with 3 different relays i got from the scrap yard. Still no start. 3. Pulled a coil pack and spark plug out. Grounded them and cranked the engine. No spark. Plug was dry when removed. 3. Measured resistance of the crankshaft position sensor. Reading of 502 ohms. Seemed reasonable but swapped it our anyways with a known working one from another car. Still no start. When I crank the car over, I try to have my partner turn the key and me listening for the fuel pump to turn on. Can't here the pump turn on. Also there is no gas smell coming out of the exhaust pipe when cranking. I'm not sure what to do further? Any thoughts? Cheers Eddy

How much are you after without tires for M Parallels.

cool ya that's what I gathered after spending a bit of time on forums and realoem. I'm at the stage now where I have the ZF trans, shifter, driveshaft, trans computer and trans loom which is all good. The issue is, where the trans loom connects to the ecu loom near the steering wheel doesn't match up so I'm trying to figure out what each wire does. It looks as the jap e34 has a different wiring scheme (or at-least wire colouring) to that of the euro e34 even though they both run the same ECU. Gathering wiring info the jap e34 has been difficult to say the least.

Thanks Brent. I'll keep you posted if I decide to purchase one. I'll try to figure out the trans wiring loom out first. You would happen to have any pointers for that would you? Cheers Eddy

Thanks Allan that's kind of the path I've taken for now. I looked at both cars and realized they both have the same ECU so i decided to swap the TCU and transmission loom. Everything went smoothly but I've hit a snag. Where the transmission loom connects to the ECU loom, the connectors don't match nor the wire colours (this is maybe a jap vs euro thing?) but both connectors have the same number of wires. The connector is located in the drivers foot well to the right of steering column. Does anyone know what this connector number is or have pin outs for the jap plug? The first three photos are of the Jap (sedan) connector and the last photo is that of the euro (wagon) connector. If i can figure which wires do what, then I can complete this swap. Cheers!

Hey guys, I'm looking to see if anyone is selling or knows where to get a Jatco A5S-300J transmission. I would also be after the transmission support bracket, ATF cooler lines (if e34) and this is a long stretch but also the driveshaft if its from an e34 (e36 front section is different i think. It need to be 1361mm accordingly to realoem) Cheers Eddy

Hey Eagle, thanks for confirming. I spent a bit of time on Realoem and it does look like the sedan previously had the Jatco A5S-300J in it. I'd presume that if i were to swap out the TCU and wiring, than I'd have to replace that wiring loom and ECU as well as they are likely connected (can someone confirm this). This would make it a hell of a lot more work than scouring for a used jatco unit. I guess next logical step would be, is anyone looking to sell a working jatco A5S-300J?

Hi guys, I'm looking for help once again for the brilliant minds on this forum. A while ago i bought a 1994 e34 525i sedan (jap import) which had a previously swapped in manual transmission which i removed and placed into my wagon. Now i wanted to place the auto transmission from the wagon into the sedan. Everything went smoothly but it looks like the wire connections are different in the sedan and and will not connection to the auto transmission. The auto trans is a zf 5hp18 (i think referred to as the A5S310Z). I've included some photos below of the TCU in the sedan, what the connections look like on the sedan and the auto trans plaque. Does anyone have any idea of what I can do to get this work (if it will)? Cheers

Thanks Brent.

Ya I was going ask if you can send through some photos. I've read that the m5 sometimes came with edc in the rear also and sometimes they came with just sls. The sls m5 strut did however look different from that of the regular e34 but could be swapped between the two vehicles. Can you snap a photo of a strut and send it through? Also saw there are some guys up in Poland that rebuild them. I was going to contact some shops in NZ first to see if anyone would give a whirl as shipping would be a lot easier and then may try europe if im not successful. I am pretty keen to keep the SLS system. Also let me know if anything comes in that you know may work. Cheers Eddy

Thanks Brent. How much are you after?

Hey guys, Looking over my car today and noticed the rear SLS strut starting to leak. Does anyone know of anyone that can rebuild these in NZ? Also does anyone know of where I can purchase another one used or new? Cheers Eddy

Hey guys, Pretty far stretch here but does anyone have or know where I can purchase a throw out bearing over the weekend? Most recent BMW part number likely to be 21517521471. Cheers

Removed all the parts I need from the parts car for my manual transmission swap into the touring. If anyone has ideas on how to remove the pedal box assembly I'm all ears. I feel like i ended up removing a lot more things than what was actually required.

Hi everyone, I currently in the middle of pulling a manual transmission out of car and swapping. into my touring. Everything I need is out so far except for the pedal box. Does anyone know how to take this out? Specifically how to disconnect the brake pedal from the rod it pushes? Cheers!

Unfortunate to see the state of it but glad that its in good hands now! Excited to see how this progresses though! I too am going through tidying up an e34 wagon I bought a little while ago

while we are on the topic of clutches, does anyone have any suggestions on a lightweight flywheel or recommendations on what clutch/flywheel setup they've enjoyed? I'm looking for something that can handle a bit more power than a stock m50b25 and also endure light track use. Not overly concerned about a bit of extra chatter or noise but don't want something I would absolutely hate to drive to work. cheers!

Wired in a check engine light in my e34. Always wondering if there were any faults stored

Hi guys, A little while ago I bought a manual e34 sedan from which I plan to take out the manual transmission and place into my automatic touring. Since I've been driving it, I've noticed that the engagement point is very high up in the pedal (last couple of cms) and that the clutch doesn't bite very hard. Looking though the stack of receipts for the car, it looks like the clutch was replaced by HELLBM fairly recently so I don't think its a worn clutch issue. I'm wondering if this is normal for e34's or if its an issue with the style clutch used, length of the throughout bearing, stack height of the clutch etc. Any thoughts or how I can test further is greatly appreciated! Also worth noting that the manual in the sedan is not original but was previously swapped in. Cheers

hmmm youre right, a faulty pressure regulator wouldn't causing any flooding and would likely cause a rough idle afterwards also. I presume it idles fine after it starts up?

sounds like potentially a leaky injector(s). When you shut the car off the fuel line and rail remain pressurized until next start, but if you have a leaky injector, the injector will drip fuel into cylinder essentially flooding it causing the harder start scenario you're describing. If you wait long enough (ie. cold start) the fuel that would have dripped into the cylinder would have evaporated and this starting like normal. To troubleshoot, you can remove the fuel rail from the engine with the injectors attached and still connected to the fuel line. Turn the ignition switch on but do not start the car and place paper towel under the fuel injectors. This will pressurize the fuel line and rail. If you have a leaky injector, you'll be able to see which one is leaking. Could always be something else but this is what i suspect.

Hi guys, I'm looking for a set of lowering springs to suit my e34 525i. Cheers! Eddy

hmmmm havn't looked into that but do like the idea of a M54B30 especially considering the challenges associated with the M60. M50 turbo I do acknowledge is a lot of work but I think that's the part that excites me. I don't mind building parts myself but hate searching and waiting for randoms part to come onto the market for sale.