Mad_Max

No can do compadre..... that one is just the "mostly complete" parts car....... I say "mostly" because most of it is in the boot ???.... it's nothing spectacular though.... plenty of surface rust and a couple of bad holes, but has 99% of the trim I need to sort the good one out that I should be picking up in a fortnight or so. That one I will grab a few pics of to share with the masses, hopefully it'll be a short term project before it's first cruise in 15 or so years ?

Spotted last night heading from Balclutha towards Invercargill, a 1970ish E3 S on a trailer behind an 80's Landcruiser. Couldn't get a photo because I was too busy driving the aforementioned Landcruiser at the time ????

Very slow to add this one sorry - @Arron - bought a motor and some mags off him, great guy to deal with, great communication and everything exactly as described, I'd definitely deal with him again.

Yes I believe the M20 is the common "semi performance" upgrade. You can get away with the M4X SMF and clutch as well, they can slip a little at high revs or when being pushed hard but I got away with one behind my "slightly modified" M52B28 for a year or so - not ideal but will work. And there are places around that can rebuild the M4X clutch to have more clamping force than a stock M5X one.

Sorry didn't have a good look the first time around.... was searching for E3 parts when I came across it. Looks like @Mikan has got you a potential score ?

https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/bmw/auction-1608461343.htm?rsqid=ec3615ada6bd4ae2b3d8afa881652c75-002 in Palmy North at a dealership, not sure how the pricing is but looks tidy enough as a starting point.

Guessing you saw the Baur that hit TradeMe the last few days?

I'd like to think it won't be - otherwise the issues might be a little more than just a "rattle" ?

Being it's a poverty pack 320I, I seriously doubt it's LSD lmao.......but we shall see when the diff gets yanked.... Have now overheated it 3 times.... it's still running - sounds like a Remuera tractor though ??. Still spinning both wheels lol. Wondering how much more punishment it will survive before I get to rebuild it......

So just picked up an E36 320I coupe, it's most likely just going to be a donor/parts car as it has a lot of issues, may be turned into a track hack or something, not sure yet. Decided to have some fun at a friends place, throw it around a paddock, do a skid, generally try and kill it before figuring out what to do with it. In the process, both wheels were lighting up, passenger side all the time, drivers side would skip in and out depending on the revs So before I go investigating the diff, what's the bets its LSD, welded, or on it's way out? My bet - on it's way out ????

Someone may correct me if I'm wrong, ETK's all show the same part # from 316/318 through to 328I, I'm pretty sure it's just the individual gauges themselves that change per model.

Can throw you one from an E36 325i sedan if that's any help? Cost of a courier bag and it's yours, probably around $15.

I've got an early M52B25 sitting here, it ran but needs a rebuild as was smokey. Freight might be the killer but can work out a deal with you if you have no luck locally.

Nope. I wrecked a 94 E36 325i factory manual with a G250 box. I believe the 220 box only came behind the 4cyl's. 325i's and 328i's should mostly have the G250 box (depending on the option they were specified with), with the M3's and some Msport 328i's getting the ZF. Interesting. The one I wrecked had the G250, sports suspension and seats. Open diff. So it may have just been what was specified at the time of the build?

Just a few thoughts given you've already looked at the drivetrain, might give you something different to inspect: Flywheel not balanced. Pressure plate warped. Clutch worn/shuddering (assuming G220 box and 4cyl clutch conversion kit, it will slip/shudder under large torque loads) Gearbox mounts worn. Engine mounts worn.

G250 mostly came out of 325i/328i I believe. Possibly also the 320i and 323i but I could be wrong. The G220's were behind the 4cyl models, though having said that, my 316Ti came from factory with a G250 box so they may be an option for other models. I'm not sure what the G250 boxes go for on their own sorry. Mostly only see G220 boxes on TradeMe these days, occasionally a G240 will turn up but that won't be much use to you either.

If it's currently got a cert for the cage and engine swap etc. it may potentially require changes if the cage is removed. I believe that, if the car has been certified for something, it has to have that item fitted, otherwise the cert needs to be modified/amended to reflect the changes - I could be wrong on that one though. For me, personally, I'd leave it as is, however that's also a matter of personal taste - many others will disagree and feel that it'll sell faster/easier with the rear seat installed.

Check the basics first. As @M3AN said, these things suffer from the sealant on the top of the coil packs failing, something that won't be picked up from a scanner. I have also seen a friend's rally car occasionally drop a cylinder at revs, only when turning left - turned out to be the hose from the intake boot to the ICV and manifold that caused that issue - again, something that wouldn't be picked up from a scanner. Check your spark plugs, not just the condition but make sure they are done up right. If you can identify which cylinder is dropping out, switch coils and see if the misfire follows the cylinder. Also do a compression test, both dry and wet. Check for gasses in the coolant etc. Is there any rattles or ticks coming from the top end? Is the condition just at idle, at WOT or POT? If you want basic diagnostic stuff, a cable and adapter with INPA (BMW specific software) is reasonably cheap, think I paid around $40 a few years ago. Start with the basic stuff first, these things can throw fault codes that don't always point to the exact solution so you may end up throwing a lot of money at sensors and start costing you more than you think only to realise it's a simple solution.

If this is still up for grabs in a couple of months I'm definitely keen, right now funds are quite stretched..... otherwise GLWS, I think it's quite well priced and well turned out for the right buyer.

Yep, 4cyl ones are longer. From memory, you can cut *I think* 32mm from the linkages and reweld back together to make them work if you're doing it on an extreme budget. It may be 35mm, it's around that though. Na auto and manual are the same for the water hoses. Some of the older 36's had trans cooler lines go into the side of the radiator, others have a separate cooler at the front. Either way, you don't need to change the radiator, it won't leak if the trans lines aren't hooked up.

Yeah my bad, sorry ?

Glenn is right on the money there, little turn to loosen, little turn to tighten. Helps stop it binding up. Lots of patience will be needed to get it out, take your time with it.

Hahaha yeah...... Doesn't help when the instructions jump all over the place....... Na you're all good man, no problems ?

Managed to get ISTA/D up and running, turns out I missed a crucial step during installation ?. Now just need to get the IP settings right for ISTA/P and I should be all sorted.

I'd actually be more tempted to keep it in the family with a 3.5l or 4l V8 Beamer swap lol...... won't be that hard to do if you get a cheap donor car. If you still wanna go the M50/52 swap I can sort out a motor, box, looms, DME etc for you for a decent price for a kit, engine and gearbox mounts may have to be custom made etc. but should be able to throw you mostly everything. And again, the offer is there if you're willing to be patient - I'd be happy to actually do a motor swap for you. Set out what you want to achieve, sort a motor, box etc and physically do the work ?