deedub

Damn, that's the way to do it! Top down cruising through Northland. Beautiful ride you have there. We did a family trip around Northland for a couple weeks earlier in the year. Some rough roads up those ways. Glad you got through that unscathed (we had do swerve a horse that I didn't see until getting round the bend - classic northland).

On the previous listing I don't think it mentioned anything about it being a genuine 325i Sport (at least don't remember that on the original listing). What are the unique features of a UK Sport 325i? Pretty much the same as the M325i? Anything that was different between them? I know Sport didn't come with M badges (only difference I know of)

Been on my list to get a setup soon. I want to have an ultra wide curved screen mounted to it though (so it is it's own dedicated unit). Want an arcade machine first so will probably look into it next year.

If it were right hand drive I'd consider bidding it on it.

E34 M5 left hand drive Japanese import. https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/m5/listing/4943331428

Brave and Leo AI is solid

Have you checked out realoem? Put in your vin and confirm what was there originally for your car. Then you can search for that part online or go to a pick a part/wreckers maybe. This might be what you're looking for? (but confirm first through realoem).

True. Didn't look that close.

It is manual. But also the seller isn't claiming it's a genuine mtech 1. Just that it has the kit.

Because you have a fuel pump under the car then I'm guessing you have an 84-87 model and should have an electric transfer pump in the fuel tank.

I'm still pretty new to E30s. Someone who actually knows these cars could confirm. But according to the Bentley service manual 84-87 models should have an electric transfer pump mounted in the fuel tank (haven't actually touched the fuel system yet so I'm just going off what the manual tells me). Apparently on 88-90 models there's only a main fuel pump and that's mounted in the fuel tank. So based on that, you shouldn't only have a sending unit in there. Have you ever been able to drive it? Was it running prior to changing pump?

Forgot to mention. The fuel gauge also jumped to full around the same time as well (was around 3/4 before that which was another reason I suspected the dash). Eventually went back down before I got home.

Took the E30 out for a drive on the highway out towards Taupo. Temp gauge was sitting in the middle. Hit a bump (recently resealed dodgy part of the road that came up just after bend). Temp gauge suddenly shot up past 3/4 mark. Stayed there for a bit. Got to a safe place and pulled over (turned heater to full). No movement on the gauge. Turned around and decided to drive for a bit and see what happens (I know, risky if it's legit starting to overheat but the sudden jump after hitting a bump in the road made me think it was the dash playing up). Dial went back down to around mid for a bit. A couple blocks before I got home it shot up close to red again. Parked up and haven't moved it since. Didn't have a thermometer handy. Had a look under the bonnet. Couldn't see anything going on. Let the car cool and checked coolant level and leaks - nothing obvious. So I'm going to run some tests on sensors and take a look for loose nut on back of dash (hopefully this weekend). Going to get a infra red thermometer as well while I'm looking into things. I have a new temp sensor and temp sender that I could put on. Full set of new cooling system hoses, new expansion tank as well if I decide to go all the way (will see how things go). If dash seems fine then I'll probably take a look at the thermostat. I got the work shop to do the fluids when I first got the car. Green coolant. If I end up draining the coolant should I go for the BMW coolant? Or get the HOAT penrite stuff. Hear conflicting opinions on it so wondering what y'all think. Also if I end up just changing the sensors should I bleed the system after doing that? Any ideas/tips on what I should consider while digging into things much appreciated.

Anyone know what these rims are? My guess is 17" BBS RS? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yebd0qYeBWI

1990 325i Sedan (8-10k): https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/325i/listing/4906916916 1989 325i Sedan (18.5k): https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/325i/listing/4907140271 1988 M3 (120k) https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/m3/listing/4907078184 Tons of new E30s went up yesterday. Prices in general are dropping by the looks of it.

Yea looks nice in that colour (link didn't work for me either). https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/m235i/listing/4900242332

Definitely. Now I can focus on maintenance and improvements.

Took 87 E30 325i in for its first WOF under my ownership (passed).

That sounds cool. Do you have a link to that video (Mitsi Starion dash)? Love seeing people tinker with these sorts of things. Heard good things about copilot. Some workmates rate it. Cuts down development time. I haven't got around to trying it yet though.

Haha fair enough. I came across this reddit post the other day. Wonder if Tyler the creator and Frank Ocean are partly to blame 😁 I had a 1990 VR4 back in the day. Flicked off for about the same. They're going for close to 40k now. Saw a Lancer Evo II go for 50k in less than a week. Had one in the same condition and let that go for 18k. 80s and 90s cars are popular these days.

86 325i coupe just popped up. Looks nice. But at $27.5k I think it's gonna sit for a while. Assuming seller didn't intend to list 99,999k on the clock. It's more like 400k+ (odometer looks to have had some issues over the years). Hopefully they update that. It's misleading (nothing in description about odometer reading). https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/bmw/325i/listing/4894881850

First E30 I've seen recently that has adjusted the price. $17.5k looks like the most realistic price on trademe right now.

Not sure if there are any software developers around here... But figured I'd drop some interesting reads on Rust being used in vehicle ECUs (the programming language not the the rust we all dread). Was reading a blog post on a Rust based project and ended up on a blog post from thought works about Rust being used in automotive software. Safety critical code has been dominated by C/C++ for ages. It's refreshing to see Rust is something that could make it's way into automotive software (if you're fan of Rust already then you know why). I don't use Rust in my work but I've dabbled with it over the years for hobby embedded projects. When I have more free time I'm keen to contribute to Deno (which is Rust under the hood)... The name alone should mean it's the right language for cars 😜 Some more interesting reads if there are any other nerds out there: - Volvo software architect interview - Reddit thread - Uni students ECU diagnostics tool from a few years back (haven't looked at the code yet but sounds interesting)

Missed the factory part. Guess they wanna check it wasn't swapped to manual later.

Ha, I noticed that comment as well. You can tell it's manual just by looking at the photo where it shows the gear stick. And you'll find out whether it's manual pretty soon after your first test drive... If they can't tell that's a manual then they probably shouldn't be buying a 34 year old BMW.