polley

BNT.

Now im hungry for mc donalds.

Somthing wrong with the car, or the technician was a monkey.

It is the coding plug for the rev counter. Used for setting it between 4 / 6 cylinder. Might do other stuff aswell with the econometer possibly but im not sure about that.

No thats an m52b28, and they are full alloy block and head, much lighter than an m50.

Even a 8 blade hx40 will be enough for 400hp.

I have 1 in hamilton with a tyre, however it has camber wear down to the canvas / belts in places. Can have it for free, take it away.

I had a similar problem. Could of sworn the noise was coming from the back, was worse when turning right instead of left, and went away when de-acclerating / braking. Sounded quite similar to when I blew up my diff, so thought I might have done that again or buggered a CV. Turned out the front left wheel was loose.

Probally heaps of clutch dumpies.

Did you really have to quote the OP?

$250 for the amp? Thats on the cheap side of amps.

Working, every second day for about half an hour in the morning. Pretty much f**ks up any plans of going away too far.

Its pin 12, brown wire with red stripe. Not sure if it is the blue or white plug, just check both plugs for that colour wire on pin 12. It is a pulsed ground. This is the speed input wire from the diff.

Yeah it has to be brake line or it will collapse under vacuum. Will have a look at my diagrams now and find which wire it is.

Im not sure about the m62, but how much is it going to cost to swap in a 1JZ and get it to 400hp? M20b25's are dirt cheap, bolt straight in, and can make 350-400hp relatively easily once turboed. Edit: I see you are from russia, maybe turboing an m20 / m20's are not cheap there?

Just turbo a m20b25?

1.) Check coolant, is it infact low? If not low, derp, sensor. 2.) If it is low, then the sensor is working fine, and need to find where it is leaking from / into. 3.) ???? 4.) Profit!

Vacuum leak. A rather large one at that. My guess is either brake booster line has come off, blown brake booster, or the idle control pipe / connector has come out / broken. Where abouts are you?

Isnt it AKG or someone who sells the shifters that are mounted to the car itself? I think hybrid has one in his car.

I think I used e34 m20 mounts, I dont have my car here but I think it sits lower than that. I think I just used the m20 hose that went from the back of the head to the heatercore.

Looking pretty sweet, should go well. What engine mounts are you using? And how much space do you have between your sump and steering rack? Looking at the distance between the booster and the manifold, it looks like it sitting quite high? Edit: Nvm, you have a different booster.

I like the front. Rear end looks rude.

It dosent have the mount. Get your grind / weld on

The steel shifter console really is a bitch to try and make work. In the end I think I used longer bolts and a bunch of washers to space it out and twist it around so it was usable. It wasnt pretty and the gearshifter wasnt centered but it was drivable. Even a non modified FL shifter is worlds better, (and easier to modify) if your gearbox has the mounts for it.

For the battery cable there is a piece you knock out of the firewall / battery box for the cable to pass thru, same for the holes the junction box bolts to. Dont have any pics sorry.