polley

My 320i has no rear sway bar and a friends m40 318 had none either.

Sounds like vaccum leak. Check all the ICV hoses etc you mucked around with.

Yes. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=61311386978

I've got the 4 hole 2-1/16″.Now Iv'e got some gauges in there it seems to be in there a bit more sturdy. Iv'e got VDO spin lock gauges and the locking ring kinda holds it in there.

Check the throttle position sensor, these are actually a switch and can be adjusted. I had a similar issue, the switch was out of adjustment and the engine ran really rich at idle which made it surge.

pics

Err it's still a nice example? I dont see why everyone is so upset that the car has done a few burnouts. It's not like its sliding around on a diesel'd intersection and jumping a curb.

Battery's are coded to the car?

Did you make the manifolds? Looks good.

Medium case is bigger and stronger, came in 325i. 316, 318, 320 all got the small case. The medium case will bolt right in.

Get a medium case diff, change ratio is up to you. Your diff is f**ked, I did the same thing to mine (not doing a skid tho). Mine was very clunky and any power applied it would slip, would skip around corners. It had split the ring gear carrier in two, when applying power the spider gears would push it apart and the spiders would slip. Had a few teeth missing aswell.

Other than that does the diff make any noises etc? These small case diffs blow up all the time if you abuse them. Replace it with a medium case.

It has 4WD status so why not.

They can be removed with the head in place. You need to drill down the center of the stud then use an EZ out to remove it. It is easy to f**k up and if you snap the EZ out then the head defiantly will need to be removed. It would be best to take it to someone who has done it before, at least if they f**k it up it's their problem

Wasnt that one repo'd off that get rich quick be successful guy?

Quoted for lolz

There are a number of BMW wreckers in your area. Auckland: Ray @ HellBM Brent Synth Hamilton: Kerry & Mike @ mosens SD European Tauranga: Birch ave Autospares Wellington: Jono It doesn't cost much to get a engine thrown on a pallet and sent around the place. There is a 1989 525 at pickapart mangere, check it out, engines are cheap here. For $500 - $700 you could have a b25 in your car and running, no one will notice when it comes to WOF time, be reliable, less f**king around, and faster than a b20 on 5psi. You've then got a reliable car, and you can save / collect parts for when you can afford to turbo it later.

A cometic MLS head gasket and ARP head studs will run you $1k. A B25 you can pick up for $500 - $700 and you can install in a weekend. Even after you've turbo'd your b20 and if it hasnt blown up a b25 is still gonna whip your ass.

2 blown head gaskets. I think that shows proof of how well his setup actually is. I would'nt be following what he has done. I would start with a b25, more gains to be had, the b20 is a slug. With standard head gasket, ARP studs and bigger injectors and aftermarket ecu you should be good to see 400whp with a good tune. There are alot of headaches trying to trick the standard ECU to run a forced induction car properly.

What's your power goals? For 5psi it would be cheaper to just get an m20b25, prob make more power than a b20 on 5psi aswell.

Upgrade injectors and some sort of tuning solution

404 - Funny not found L2hotlink

Looks like the chickens have shat them selves all over your foil plate

The only person here measuring cock length is you.

A schedule 40 3" PVC pipe has a minimum burst pressure of 840PSI, and maximum working pressure of 158PSI. I think the aluminium will be fine