polley

They probably don't appreciate you f**king them either.

Haha thats awesome.

The smaller braid turned up this morning, I think I ordered it on Thursday and it had come from Australia. So I finished my wide band loom off this morning. Ive made it to be universal since I will be getting a different wide band to use permanently in my car. I use this one to tune friends cars etc, I used a go pro suction mount to mount it to the wind screen. It can log 7 analog inputs + AFR and RPM and EGT. I've only wired up the RPM pickup and 2 analog inputs and the wide band of course, I doubt I will ever use more than that. Heres a shitty cell phone pic, I just need to add connectors for the battery and analog inputs. Looking forward to starting on the engine loom this weekend.

Found some on mighty ape, like $30 iirc.

Where can you get those horse masks?

Hrrm, that is true and some thing I hadn't considered. Possible, turn on overrun fuel cut and see if it helps.

Im not sure if there is a suggested distance (as it could possibly be different for different engines, but I guess there is a rule of thumb people go by), the only thing I read in my wideband manual was that it needs to be at a distance that allows the sensor to run at the specified temperature. It pretty much suggested that if the sensor was too hot to move it down stream, and that if it was too cold to move it up stream. You can get heat sinks for the O2 sensors if they are getting too hot and you dont want to move it. I havent read the LC1 manual, maybe it says somthing about a recomended distance?

How are they attatched?

Hrrm that kinda sucks. The SLC can do it, and I was amazed at how close it can keep the sensor at 750[c] under all engine loads.

Yes the O2 sensor needs to be at 750[c] +/- 25[c] If the sensor is out of this range it will be inaccurate, if it is run for prolonged times at a temperature that is out of spec you can cause damage to your sensor. Does the LC1 software allow you to view the current temperature of the sensor? As this should give you good indication if the sensor is not far enough down stream or too far up the manifold or exhaust. I think it is unlikely that your ignition timing would be far off enough to effect the O2 sensor, tho possible (if your timing was that retarded it would run like crap?) If the sensor is in factory posistion, I guess you can rule all this out and put it down to the tune or LC1.

Yeah. IMO I think hes just slapped some cheap paint on it for a car show or somthing, and plans on painting it later maybe. Edit: Maybe not, just went back and looked at it and its all stickered up.

I think he means it could be his tune. Possibly too rich / lean? Should'nt really effect the sensor tho.. Maybe the placement is not too good and it is getting too hot or maybe too cold. Is it possible to view the temperature of the sensor with the LC1 while it is operating?

Haha. ok..

The LC1's are known for randomly dying. Ive got one of the original SLC DIY's from 14point7.com It seems to work fine, and can also log 5 or so analog inputs, RPM, MAP, and a thermocouple. The newer version does even more and even has a accelerometer. Mine seems to be working great. But if you're looking at spending $700~ on a wideband, you probably aren't looking at buying something like this.

Yeah, the steel braid is pretty cool. I picked some nylon braid up off kerry today. http://nz.element14.com Also sell it, you can get it in 5 and 10 meter lengths, or buy it in rolls. I just ordered a bunch as I need some smaller stuff, it was like $4 for 5 meters, I thought that was a good price.

Yep.I cant remember the last time I paid for gas. It looks as tho by the time I get my car running I wont be able to afford to run it :/

I think its most likely the same body he has been using for along time, its been through quite a few engine swaps, so it's prob getting a bit tired. But it dosent look finished at all, maybe he plans on fixing up the body later on, or he just dosent care.

Yep

Damn this dude is nuts!

Had the same problem on my E32 on both seats. The problem was the inner calbe had shrunk and pulled out of the motor drive. This is how I fixed it: 1.) Pull the cable out of the motor. 2.) Confirm the drive is not stripped out and that the cable has just shrunk 3. )Heat the metal end of the outer cable and pull it off with pliers. I just used a normal lighter to heat it. 4.) Cut the outer cable with a knife enough so that the inner cable will correctly engage the motor drive ie. If the inner cable is too short by 1/2 inch, cut 1/2 inch off the outer. 5.)Re-attatch the metal end of the outer cable. Hold it with pliers and heat it with the lighter, when it is hot slide it back over the outer cable. This fixed both my seats, it had problems with front / back slide movement, back rest twist, and the head rest. Now they work great!

Facelift would be easyier.

Is this where the pistons pop out and say 'hi' to you every morning?

My E32 is constantly blowing on low speed, and wont turn off. The only other speed it will run on is full speed. I take it this is another failure mode of the sword?

Also need to change cooling system over then. Either convert the car to the FL setup or the new engine to the PFL setup. Why is he better of going with the FL engine?

Heh, I get this all the time. "You cant turbo a BMW it'll blow up! Get a nissan instead"