sonic_attack

I thought of just grabbing them but ive enough on anyway. The welded portion is only the inner and outer right? The centers would remain unscathed.?

Pretty banged up, but no enquiries? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=742660834 Just out of curiosity. Can they be redrilled or slotted to 4X100 for e30 fitment?

I don't mind so long as it's not huge drama. Why don't you call Swanson Transport and get a price for delivery? I practically drive past their depot twice a week.

Must be able to sort something. I'm out west on Friday evening to pick my boy up. Swanson Transport just there too.. Where was pickup?

Swapped waterpumps on m60 a couple weeks ago. One of the ali tubes fell out even though I was caeful as $#@& prising them off. Figured id have a go at just slipping it in and hoping. I was lucky. Next time its plenumn off and fabricate some type of hold at the firewall end for those ali tubes. Obviously theyre fine when a waterpump is jamming and sandwiching them tight but the waterpump swap is a mare for that reason alone. Seems an odd design. Or a weak point in the system at least.

Nope. The steaks are twice the size and half the price! Easily the best super in NZ by a healthy margin.

Sorry. Missed this. Anyone local is welcome to drop by and pick this up for use. Its a cheapy from tm but worked well on my e34. I forget the model# rs-800 or something similar. Theyre still advertised on tm but I figure its a bit of a waste for the amount of use they have. $60 new ive no problem lending it out though. It will determine airbag fault and reset. Obviously the fault should be fixed when determined and then reset after. But anyone wanting to tackle whatever fault they have is welcome to it. Airbag fault code reader and resetter only. It has no other function. From memory its good for bmw up to 2004.

That 4 block sitting unused is bound to be electric seats or seat heating which you won't have. I'd keep looking around at that wiring thoroughly. Trace it all to the ends and check/clean the connections. I'd be peeling back that accordion cover for the seatbelt latch itself and looking into that. That would seem a likely wear point for chaffed wires and disconnections. Looks like a great time to be hoovering up all that dog hair, orange peels and old Macca's fries anyway..

It's a mare there alright. That's at the extreme end of nasty parking but.

I had wondered this yesterday. Not for this particular wheel or stud pattern but just in general. Surely it would just rely on there being enough material at the 120mm pcd to safely cover the slotting. And the center bore size was rigjt or could be machined right. It would be wheel dependant? There's a set of Autostrada Modernas on tm cheap. Wrong pcd and offset which got me thinking.

Old girl in probably the mintest OG red 318i e30 on the planet on Victoria Street in the city. Someone is going to score when they pick that one up. (The car that is..)

I wouldn't need them. I'd prefer a 6 speed and install and a bunch of cash saved as well. My personal requirements for coilovers would be purely aesthetics. I think if you're going to drop $1000+ though you may as well throw a little more at it and have the koni branding in there because it's an established brand with reliable history, the internet is littered with satisfied users praising the decision in getting them too. At a guess most punters wouldn't be too far removed from my own requirements. Get the car a little lower to look nice around the wheel arches, a nice comfortable ride with a noticeable increase in suspension performance over stock, reliability and longevity, and at a reasonable and affordable price. All for a street driven car that will see a little spirited driving occasionally on an open road.

lol. awesome^

How many e34's could you buy for the price of an Ohlins coilover setup?

KW come bolt in with spindles, pretty sure Ground Control do too when you pay the core charge. They cost though. GC around US$1700 + Shipping and KW several hundred more. I've looked at it too recently and was thinking it's worth waiting for the Fortune Auto e34 coilovers which are a matter of weeks away and around US$1700ish for all four corners. I'm a bit dubious of the quality of the cheaper setups around, probably wrongly though, but still for piece of mind I'd sooner spend the extra up front for a quality brand shock associated with the KW's or GC's. The GC's require a core exchange or payup a little more US$150 from memory. The Fortune Auto setup is different entirely. They're a bespoke service custom built. http://www.fortune-auto.com/ Servicing when required might be a problem but. I haven't researched enough to determine a bolt in system inclusive of spindles. I don't really see that as a problem though, more a minor inconvenience. I'd be pretty confident in saying if you don't mind paying you could have whatever you want. Alternatively, acquiring components and producing your own might produce a marginal saving, probably on par with GC or KW though by the time you paint or powdercoat depending on your level of fastidious presentation, you may even spend more if you're farming all the work out. Still a bit of outlay though and welding/shock shortening would be required. a1racing.com have sleeves and perches at decent prices. You might be lucky in sourcing springs in the right weight you want locally new or used. a bit of searching around will turn up a variety of camber plates, springs and other componentry. It'd be quite cool to go this route for wank factor and a nice project to have for a month or two. Then factor in the $500 or so to cert it regardless of what you turn up with anyway. The obvious and sensible choice for me personally would be a set of KW's. I'm kicking myself for not pulling the trigger on a brand new set of V2's for US$1200 - I chased a large case LSD diff and ring/pinion in the 3.25 ratio I wanted instead though.. :-/ Completely unnecessary right now but I need something to toy with. A lot more reading and looking at what you like, have cash in hand and ebay.de will throw up exactly what you want. I've a wishlist of around $12,000 lol! Coilovers, OZ Breyton's, supercharger.. FWIW there's an entire world of retail out there who're happy to work with the loopholes our customs expose themselves to in order to avoid GST or duties. Keep your purchases under or on the limit. Choose DHL door to door for shipping. Even organise it yourself. For what it is though it's well easy enough to keep your orders under the $400 limit. 99% of foreign retailers are more than happy to invoice and ship separate components for a sale.

FWIW I got those screws when I got mine in. Everything is packaged pretty awesome so no chance of scratching. Just philips screws though, I didn't even use my plastic clip on screwhead covers that came with it. If anything X2 50mm pieces of D/S velcro closure system for either side of the plate surround would be a good call, I did it to mine just to keep it all solid and strong. The fitment of the plate inside the frames is sweet and solid, but the fitment of that massive piece of plastic with the two screws was a little weak IMO. More based around the location of the existing mounting holes on the bumper and boot lid than anything. The velcro with D/S sticky-back mounted on the backside of the outers of the plate surround firmed that up nice and solid.

I was thinking (probably wrongly) the entire drivetrain would be utterly sweet seeing it's had no use, but been suspended in oil that's never seen any use either...? Likely every rubber component on the car would be as brittle as the toffee covering on a creme brulle though. I could see someone driving off in it and the fuel line cracking open and engulfing the car in flames and the brakes failing when he frantically tries to stop and smashing into a tree on the side of the road. lol!

They could just start it and not drive it..52 OG miles but it's had 700 litres of fuel through the tank.

I'd expect most folk would be quite embarrassed and apologetic, likely doing the quick exit to avoid any confrontation which would seem quite common these days. I couldn't imagine much worse than some regular placid couple hanging around after doing that, and some nutter winding up and tripping out in some frothing rage. At the other end. I live in a CBD block with a few apartment buildings around and some interesting if not straight up super-eccentric neighbors. One neighbor (John) has his car parked out front, nothing too flash just a regular old run around, another neighbor has the worst parking skill imaginable. Her 3-point skills invariably leave carnage resembling an autobahn pileup. She ends up backing into this guys car, it's happened a few times so this particular neighbor decides to hit her up about it, quite politely but firmly. Next thing this womans husband is out on the footpath demanding that "In the interests of good neighborly relations" John just drops it! lol *BOOM*!!

Conveniently, mine practically fall out with very little coercion, but aren't loose. The kidney surround themselves are 4 clips - like a conventional snap-in hook on every plastic component ever created. Alternatively there should be a couple of clips under the bonnet at the front there that'd be helpful in removing that center section of the grill. Are you removing the kidneys to return them to their nice chrome lustre after some hack has painted them black?

If you did the google search I did using the same words I'd suggested, clicked on the first link which is a PDF file explaining in detail the fault code and repair, inclusive of OEM part numbers and clear easy to follow diagrams to fix the fault (which reads practically identical to yours). Taking around 20 seconds to cut/paste/look and establish whether this document outlines the fault and whether you're prepared to tackle the work involved shouldn't cause so much nay-saying or spit 'n vinegar. Use it, don't use it. Whatever. Seems folk are pretty quick to jump to conclusion and bandwagon. The same procedures are detailed elsewhere too. I'd figured a PDF document is fairly standard, printable and simple to follow. It seems not though.At least not if you're not prepared to take the effort to simply look. Good luck anyway.

I had a crazy setup to crack the 36mm? nuts on the reduction boxes of my split kombi's. One had 9" wheels on the back so had a 3/4" power bar with a 6" extension balanced on a portable trolley jack with a 6ft piece of rusty old pipe you had to practically jump on to crack the nuts. Used to scare me everytime..

You're a pro now. All us Auckland folk will be calling on you to come and do ours when the time comes!

I don't. How safe and effective is a 15-16 year old airbag anyway? FWIW the PDF details replacing factory components with instructions and placement.

From what I gather and have read in my own airbag drama searches it's not an uncommon problem, as is the seat occupancy sensor. There's bound to be instructions or some bypass trickery available, either through retail or some technique worked out and exposed via youtube.. Actually I just googled "e36 driver belt tensioner bypass" and all you need to know with detailed instructions is available on the very first result in PDF format.