sonic_attack

I print stickers. A couple of options. 1: Digital print - Basically a solvent inkjet printer. perfect quality for photographic reproduction, the detail isn't so great for spot colour though. Passable and reasonably cheap depending on substrate used. Longevity not amazing either under the NZ sun. 2: Screenprint - Perfect spot colour reproduction, longevity increased with ink film thickness. Expensive for small quantities. I was real happy with my plate when it arrived. Nice quality screenprint transfer for the German coat of arms. A couple of small nicks/scratches but nothing upsetting. The weight of the Ali used is a little less than our chunky plates but they conform to and around the curved bumpers nicely. It's a good product.

Doesn't read right to me, regardless of my ignorance. One piece of flimsy plastic should do it, two pieces to center the wheel seems a bit of a stretch. The research I've done turns up the same info as already listed above by Eagle. Hub 74.1 - 72.6 Wheel. At least you've got plastic rings. Mine are broken metal rings stitched together with electrical tape :-/ I scoured ebay and turned up what I believe is the right fit posted above by eagle. So if they work for me chances are they'll work for you and you're welcome to the extra set I purchased. Pay or replace or whatever. If it's right it's probably wise for us both to have an extra set stashed and handy anyway. Ta, Rod.

I was checking out your car. It's very nice, I think I'm convinced the type3 Schnitzers are my alternative wheel because of it. I'll be on the lookout for a set anyway. re fuel economy: I live around 400 meters from the alten rd / stanley st lights at the port turnoff in the CBD. It's about the most convenient motorway access you could have. One set of traffic lights and a downhill coast to access southern / northern / western Mways. and they all have the port turnoff too so I'm rarely waiting or stop/start. I basically start the car and hit 100+KPH inside a minute. If I want anything in town I just walk or cycle to it, it's quicker than driving anyway! SO that's all pretty helpful. I've done a couple thousand K's in 3 weeks? of owning it on probably $400 - $450. I only seem to be chucking $60 a week at it for a daily 35K round trip and a top up when I do something dumb like leave the eftpos card at Takanini pick-a-part. :-/

Well what do you know. This little gig turned up this morning. If you're not already sorted you're welcome to drop by and use it. Rod 0275366468

I wonder if I should be looking at something like these too. Being a bit (well a lot) ignorant of BMW eccentricities I've noticed a shake at speed. Nothing horrendous but a definite shimmy. Reduced somewhat with a wheel alignment recently though I did notice when wheels were being rotated (back switched to front) the rear hub had a bit of electrical tape wrapped around it.. Same vehicle - 18" Schnitzer type 2's.

Attacked my kidneys with oven cleaner to remove black paint. I was avoiding it because regardless of how I removed the paint I was likely to dull the chrome. Result turned out as expected but still tidier than rattlecan matt black.. Removed cut springs and installed some generic Jamex variety as a temp measure until I decide what I want. Actually I personally didn't do that, got done though.

Actually I bought one of those code readers, waiting for the bloody thing to turn up. Oddly a number plate can be manufactured and mailed from Germany to arrive well before any sight of a locally stocked product. You're welcome to use it if/when it does arrive though, I don't imagine I'll get much use out of it beyond finding out why mine is on as well...

German plate from Germanplates.com. Not convinced of the plate surround. Might look at stiffening it all up over the weekend with some super aggressive velcro type product I have kicking around. Be my luck the front falls off and goes flying into the opposite lane on the Mway.

I always thought Fort lane (off fort st) in the CBD makes a reasonable industrial/ghetto looking backdrop if a nice car was in the frame. Dead empty weeknights too, even when Imperial lane is open. Actually quite an amazing space for a cafe too but sits practically unused.

Yep, alarm still functional. Found that out today, seem to have a handle on turning it off using the key now. Picked up a new key body and chip for inside courtesy of Brent (thanks again!). key appears to do what it's supposed to (ie: red light flash on button pressing) though theres maybe a little conjecture regarding the year of chip for the key supplied? I've looked over it and everything is identical bar the inked number identifying the chip, though this is only 2 digits away from the OG chip. Had more than several goes at syncing key to no avail. It appears an actuator in the boot is dysfunctional. I have resynced the door locks using a method found on bmwe34.net. But still no go at syncing key to lock/arm. I fear a lockout of the IR module/programming is a great possibility - Dealer fix apparently. May give a call to some advertisers here who're in the Albany/Shore area and see if there's any tricks or tips. I feel pretty close to a resolution though.

So just out of interest, and I'm completely ignorant to how the factory alarm is supposed to work.. How does my factory alarm work? NZ new 1993 e34 540i. I'll have a two button remote to control central locking and presumably arming/disarming the alarm? Or would I need something else?

Send me a text when you've confirmed what you have. Rod 0275366468. Ta.

Cheers. I wasn't even aware of BMW making a diff that sluggish for an e34. It must surely be 3.45 - 3.46.

Is the diff out? Can you take a pic of the stamped tag identifying it please?

Are you sure?

If it's large case 3.23 - 3.46 I'll likely snap it up. Is it known to be a sweet runner with no grinding, graunching, or any untoward dodgyness?

I'm keen, if I knew what ratio you were offering, Large / Medium case etc.

The pink wheels are the least of it's problems. It's so low it's completely undrivable lol!

Roger that. I found the casual back-yardiness kinda pleasant though. To tell the truth I'd rather not be spending $300 at all. That's around 15% of the value of the car, for a bloody key! And then I'm only hopeful of the key itself being the problem in this scenario. Well it's only been a short and painful process. The Mr Minute key guy screwed up and gave me a 3 button key lol! he's like "Yep, we got them no problem, no problem at all" I get home to screw the internals from old key into new and was WTF'ing for a minute before cycling back down there. A bit of a long conversation in Mandarin and it turns out I can pick up the correct key body from New Lynn tomorrow. So I suspect this chip is no good, that's my gut feeling anyway. Upon closer inspection it appears only one of the two buttons on the chip is actuating, or actuating properly. Just has that feel about it anyway.

Well im kinda glad the gt motronix key didnt work. Rolled dpwn to mr minute downtown shopping center to buy replacement batteries and this guy is cutting a key with blank key body for $99! Ill have a functional key buttons at least for my chip to bolt into. I get the feeling gt motronix didnt stick at it long enough. From what ive read today the sync process is turn key to position 1 in ignition the hold unlock and hit lock 3 times, or vice versa.

I'm going to buy some batteries now and confirm that. I've actually depressed the buttons/microswitches on the chip and there is a slight depression there. That was my initial thought too, but like I said the guy at GT Motronix was confident in the key? Maybe he was just assuming it was functional.

I'm quite sure the car has an alarm. lights and indicators flashing and a loud alarm siren sound (from the horn) would suggest that.. PS: My vin shows a factory alarm fitted, this was confirmed at McMillan today.

FWIW: The gas flap has never locked. Not with the key anyway. I'll assume the electric mechanism is shot. Would this cause the key syncing procedure to fail on my car? ie: it's a component of the central locking that isn't functioning?

Yep, fuse was in when key was being synced/initialized. I sorted that prior to anything. Well I plugged the fuse back in and the OBC worked again. I really don't know what to do after that. Disconnect battery for 30mins? Hop on one foot? I just don't know. Central locking works fine with key. Just do the "double lock" of twisting the key anti clockwise in the lock and it's all locked. I can even do the half twist close sunroof / windows / lock method with the key. Edit* The key buttons have never worked, actually the buttons are gone, just a couple of holes where the buttons were. the chip seems fine. The guys at GT Motronix installed it into the new key body and apparently it was functioning, although it didn't work... I know, I don't understand that either.

Hi, the buttons aren't working to lock/unlock. the key started the car fine. I've a factory alarm system, I'm assuming the key central locking also arms/disarms that as well. I had some trouble with the alarm initially (ive owned the car 2-3 weeks) If you didn't operate the manual key locking (in the drivers door) accurately the alram would trip so it was giving me headaches until I pulled the fuse from under the seat completely disabling the alarm system. This morning I replaced the fuse which also brought back my dash computer. Oddly, the double locking action of the key in the door is no longer arming the alarm, or I can't see the indicators flash at least. For all intent and purpose the goal is to be armed with the factory key so I can press a button on it to lock/unlock arm/disarm alarm. I'm assuming it really is that simple?