mops

did you manged to check the diff ?

Thanks Yes... much bigger undertaking both in terms of man-hours needed and money wise, and how mcuh custom work in necessary. Stuff in NZ is a bit dearer than in USA. Some stuff i didnt budgeted is killing me... like... just connecting turbo and engine.... bow ($100 cheapie), sections of alloy pipes ($50 easily), 4 silicone couples (i managed to organize what i need from ebay NZ$200 landed.. buying in supercheap you would ~ $400), tclamps (size you want is approx $10-12 per each, and you need 8 at least)... intercooler... $200), misc bits, nuts/bolts to mount IC, vacum line(s), abother maybe $50. i stopped adding it all up cos it's destroying all the fun. On the positive note... my rebuilt engine runs. Right now i'm fitting bigger injectors and converting to wasted spark. That's further heap of custom work that needs to be done that requires custom machining spacers and welding brackets and stuff... by now i got pretty much complete automotive workshop in my garage, with welders and compressor and i dunno how many $1000's in tools... ... but the next build will be cheaper

carbs are difficult to use with turbo. two flavors, 1. draw through (carbs before turbo) 2. blow through (carbs after turbo) they both have their ups and downs. but EFI is the way to go with turbo. I'm not going to write an essay here. do your research. efi will cost you less in the long run. it's easier to tune, more flexible and will get much better fuel economy off boost. i suppose if you are building turbo racecar then it's acceptable (i'm not saying desirable) really these days EFI is probably cheaper than carbs. to put together and tune (Fi setup)

damn, if you posted that few weeks earlier.... realistically, what kits can tou offer, what price for what torque rating/drivability ?

PM sent.

what's the ratio of the differential ?

no you cant, but there are at least two good places for that. read e30 turbo faq on e30tech.com forums

you would know whether they would fit e30 ? these are pretty much the biggest wheels that will fit without rolling guards, but only if they are 20-25 offset... I'm pretty keen to try them out, but you are in chch and i'm in akl and shipping would be kinda xpensive... what did you had them on ?

still available ? what's the offset ?

I'm in process of building one right now.... http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55733 It is all doable for 3G if you are carefull and if you know what you are doing... Problem in NZ is that some parts are hard to find, and that means if you fin them they are expensive. And then sill require a rebuild. Ideal (once you have 325i) is to find 525e bottom end in good condition and just swap bottom ends (you want 'e' bottom end with 'i' head). They are rare here in NZ. I went through 3 until i found one in usable condition (sill required full rebuild). Maybe better solution is to buy 525e and part it out, keeping block for yourself... and making money on the part out to offset build cost. from there it will depend on how much you can do yourself... worst thing is that all those old high milage parts... people who sell it say, oh yeah, "it's sweet ass mate, work working great when i pulled it out, i was changing oil every 5k", etc, etc, etc... or that clutch pack LSD with 100k kilometers on it is 'sweet ass mate' and machining is expensive.... basically if you get into welding/machining costs go up very quickly.... from there: manifold ($60-1000+) turbo($100-2000) exhaust($200-1500) wastegate($80-120) megasquirt($400) wideband($150-250) large injectors($20-1200) larger or additional fuel pump($20-500) charge piping ($40-1000) BOV ($80-500) EMS tuning ($0-$$$) as you see alot of options there... That Jaycar thing is kinda BS. It requires hand controller (sold separately) and quite possibly other 'addons' (all sold separately). And how many people recommend it ? AFAIK it's big unknown. MS is cheapest and fully capable. I wouldnt try without a wideband. some people do... good tune is essential for optimim performance, reliability an fuel economy. Good cheap DIY wideband is JEW. I got my LC-1 becasue i didnt know about JEW but next time I'll just get JEW. Aparently there's some company in NZ that makes/sells wideband with egt and digital display with under NZ$500..

hm... there maybe be many reasons for run bearings... Really hard to run a bearing with proper lubrication and no detonation (good tune)... It's hard to say, depending on their current condition... mine after 130k miles were really good... I still had good oil pressure with sh*t work oil... but i changed them anyways cos I'm doing full rebuild anyways...

I got m20 323i cylinder head here.... it's disassembled.... but I have all the parts... As for bottom end... i dont see why it would put too much stress... it's only getting it back into specs...

Sorry for reviving old thread... but how did that ended up ? what was the problem ? Soon I'll be starting my rebuild m20... I didnt know that oil system needs to be primed...

do they actually retune stock EMS ? which models/engines/MY are they capable of retuning ?

Hey guys... I don't want to cross post form other forums, just putting up a link to my thread on e30tech.com if anybody is interested. http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=55733

so i'm a bit lost here. you you are saying e36 might diff will not fit into e30, but e28 medium case will ? how much are you after for that e28 3.46 one ? I think 325i's auto's had factory 3.46 diffs.

hey brent. I did some research and as far as I can find, all medium case diffs are the same, and just have different backplate between various models.... can have a look and confirm please? how much would you want for one anyways ? I kinda need it asap.

yes, early (if not all) e28's 525i were running m30b25 blocks.

not much help, but flywheel will be xpensive to ship. any engineering shop that has a large enough lathe (really any metal lathe should be ok) should be able to machine it for you.

As title and description says, I'm after a stock differential in preferably good condition , with 3.25 or 3.46 ratio. I want the NON-LSD unit, i.e. stock open diff. Ideally auckland pickup...

thanks for replies guys. yes, i read all the docs, and even spoken with the certifier today. They said that yes, if i retain oem rails and seatbelt anchors, i will be ok, BUT i can have issues if the wof officers are an being difficult. I'll get those bucket seats anyways, cos i just got fresh warrant and by the next one i'll need cert anyways...

yeach, i'm looking at getting those too... but i'm not 100% regarding the fitting. some ppl say that i'll require cert.... that place adaptor brakcets for $100 each, but that seatbelt anchor on the looks flakey to me... reusing stock oem rails would requiring chopping off the seat from them.... i can chop and weld as required and make them structurally sound, the only question is what would require a cert ?

yes, a great car, but i think the price is a tad high. it's an old classic that requires constant attention...

Ideally in auckaldn, but realistically I'll pay shipping.

well, i do not intent to make any shortcuts. I'll make it so it is structurally sound, i'm just concerned that some a**hole wof inspector in the future tells me that i got non-oem seats therefore i require a cert. the seat is reclinable, i don't think it has the 'sliding forward' motion, i dont think any aftermarket seat does. it is not possible to retain that feature as it isunique to the factory seat mechanism (not only factory rails), but i'll investigate that. I have an option to purchase adapter rail that will make the whole operation bolt-on, but it does not look 'structurally sound' to me. it's bassically a fdlat plate with some holes in it. the plate is maybe 2mm thick ? aswell the seatbelt anchor is 2mm thick bracket welded on. i want to do it myself, but i just need to know the details for cert requirements (so i can avoid it). I'm experienced fabricator and wont have issues with making it stronger than oem, and make seat sit lower than oem (no pun intended), i just need to know the regulations regarding modyfying factory seats/rails.