Gus
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Everything posted by Gus
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mounting is the same, but the half shaft splines have a different sort of little shield thing. the med case one is hard up against the place where the allen bolts joint, the small case have it half way. med case shields on small diff= diff oil flying out back
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nope..bilsteins arent not adjustable fronts are around 350 each then the rears 150..works ou around a k. call up stocks or something
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G G G G Unit hola!
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steep considering brand new bilsteins (better) are $150 each. your call though
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http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...085&ed=true cheep cheep like the budgie some one do a turbo project!
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sounds like an e30 man to me? ive driven plenty....and still have no desire to own one! would maybe go a 328i or M3 for a track car once stripped out
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stock 325 are not that quick, sounds about right as for e36 testing your driving skill more, rubbish. spits them out with little drama doesnt sound very challenging? e36 will just understeer at their limit..hardly challenging. try driving an e30 325i with LSD with bald rears in the wet and you will have lots of driving skill tests. they arent a quick car but have enough torque to make it fun. e30s are much more involving. sure will be a little slower (stock at least) but they are noisy (which is awesome) and you can feel the road i would call them more of a drivers car. just my opinion...for e30s you also have the benefit of having cheap bits and everything being easy to work on. as for better car its all subjective. some people like one some people like others...notice how in the cars thread i havent owned one e36? there's a reason for that!
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JDM!
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92 honda accord and 92 primera...not really mentionable!
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prep by cleaning and sanding/rust wheel. i meant to prime but couldnt find it. plus im not 100% sure if the primer was heat resistant. wrinkle painting is hard...mine aint perfect yet. need to do even layers and be at the right temperature
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somewhere around 150ish...thermostat easy...3bolts and 5 mins
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http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=70858112
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im fairly sure my m20 is running a little rich. smells quite fuelly when idling esp when cold, and unburnt fuel (i think) goes through exhaust to crackle and pop. which as cool as is sounds, im sure it means its not running right. seems normal otherwise. takes a while to start sometimes too. currently im thinking it may be the dizzy...a new cap and rotor is probably due. any other ideas?
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pwned
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E30 M325i '88 E30 318' 86? previous: E30 325i '89 E30 M325i '87 E30 325i '88 wrecked: E30 327i '90 E30 318iS '90 reprezentin
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well here a few random pics since i have not had digi cam for a while my car on the 16" ACS wheels. will be coming off soon for straightening/repainting to graphite and re polishing lips my sisters new e30..yes it is black. auto 318 magic my new car. sexy. anyone want bits off it contact me ASAP M42 headers M42 Pics note polished bolts! closeup of the sex machine what i spend the other half of my time on and thanks andy and finally my handy new 4 wheel engine stand - Thanks Blair
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am keeping shocks and springs currently..only selling the engine as i have had a change of plans and there no point in putting in my sisters car (which she didnt have when was originally listing). hence no mention of manual box either. gonna tardme engine soon
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well..engine is for sale again, now with black wrinkle paint on the cam cover and intake manifold..looks superb. new plugs and oil filter. all ready to go! will trademe again soon, unless better offers come on here. other bits might be..will keep updated
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have done the same....basically the easiest way to go about it (best IMO, but can be done others) is to convert the Pre FL motronic engine to FL motronic. basically this involves off the top of my head: engine loom (inc sensors on the front crankshaft pulley and RPM on ignition wire) front cambelt cover front crankshaft pulley this includes facelift cooling system: hose that leads to expansion tank expansion tank radiator hoses to radiator FL waterpump (may as well do cambelt while ya there) it sound a bit much but makes it easier in the long run, as everything is facelift and matches...i may have forgotten a couple of things so i could double check before ya went ahead and did it. is easiest to have a complete FL to take bits from really. only other way i could think of would be to use all Pre FL stuff and make an adaptor to convert the car wiring loom to work with the engine wiring loom. things like hoses etc usually need doing anyway so it makes sense
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pmed
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its a type of plastic, not sure what it stands for. the thinking behind it is that metal absorbs heat and re radiates it into the cold air box, making it warmer. having said that yours looks super balla, and should be taking enough cold air anyway.
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abs is better tane..doesnt radiate as much heat you have inspired me...i need to make mine now....question is..is carbon fibre cooler than steel? (temperature wise of course)
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better than..was rebuilt for and won ellerslie concours