e30 m20 turbo stroker project

[Jamez 2147483647]

coming along nice, really want to see what it gets at the dyno

[oscar90 0]

loving the blue! cars gonna be a machine when its done

[Guest FrantiC]

Finally got my head back from the workshop today. Took a while as they were waiting for valve stem seals.. but now it's back I can finally start assembling something Lol.

Have most things coming now, Had to find another turbo manifold as Oli decided not to sell his, afterall, but all good (just means I have to wait longer ).

T3/T4 Turbo. 38mm wastegate. Fresh m20 head ready to be put on tomorrow. Sooo making some sloooow progress hahhah. Should have megasquirt here tomorrow, Will wire what I need to and get what I can for it setup.

What I need to do:

When manifold comes, Get wastegate flange put on it.

Buy an Oil feed line (drain is all good to go)

Install manifold, turbo and wastegate.

Pipe the turbo to the charge pipes, and then to intake manifold.

Block up the ICV + PCV oil breather holes on the throttle body.

Install megasquirt, (Wire it up to run Wasted spark possibly as it's got GM Coil packs with it and the coil drivers).

Assemble head, top end gaskets etc, intake manifold back on and valve cover etc.

Find some 2.5" steel pipe to weld an o2 bung for IAT sensor and BOV flange pipe to.

That's what I can think of right now, Theres more but that is the majority of major sort of thing I need to do and should be done by the end of next week HOPEFULLY.

[Guest FrantiC]

Got the head and intake back on today, timing belt etc, radiator.....

Still gotta block off ICV and PCV holes in the throttlebody, Any ideas how ? Was thinking get them welded closed but maybe just block them off with hose somehow.. And need to mount m50 variable TPS to it.

Manifold to come.. BOV to come.. Waiting game atm

[Boost Junky 1]

Mean bro! Full props too you its comming along real well.. much quicker than mine anyway haha!

What turbo manifold are you going with dude?

Luke

[tire 10]

Block them off with a cork I've seen it done before bae. Sick project keep it up.

[topcat 11]

Still gotta block off ICV and PCV holes in the throttlebody, Any ideas how ? Was thinking get them welded closed but maybe just block them off with hose somehow.. And need to mount m50 variable TPS to it.

looking good

are you using the standard intake boot?

if so its rubber, and will happly take a bung of sum sort.their plastc and cheap

i went to my local irrigation/plumbing shop.19mm from memory.very tidy finish.

can post pic if required

m

[Guest FrantiC]

I mean the holes on the throttlebody, like one where the ICV connects to the Throttlebody, need to block that protruding piece and the one where the oil breather usually sticks into. Need something that won't get sucked in, nor get blown out at boost lol. Have to try jamming corks possibly, Ill have a look into that.

I am thinking I should probably upgrade fuel pump too. I am running 6x 440cc bosch green top ford racing injectors, Got them for $420 brand new shipped from the U.S. 3bar stock FPR. I should probably up my fuel pump, right ?

Heres the manifold I will be using. Should be all good!

[Guest FrantiC]

Here are pics of the thottlebody with m50 TPS.. Alot smaller than the e30 one, Might have to chop that bottom bit so it fits closer and will have to make my own mount for it.... fun......

circled in red are the 2 holes I need blocked off.

[topcat 11]

think for a tidy finish,i'd cut the tubes flush and have 'em welded.20min job.

plugs/caps would look to bulky,now that i see the problem

m

[Boost Junky 1]

Yea cut them and have them welded then they are tidy and out of the way

Is that manifold low mount or top? Or can you have it either way?

[Guest FrantiC]

Manifold is a topmount, don't think it fits upside down lol.

And yeah I probably will get them welded , Thing is I won't be running an ICV and will be depending on the throttleplate adjusting screw ontop of the manifold and some killer tuning for a steady idle, especially when cold that could be a b***h, But I heard it works with no ICV and cold starts aren't too much of an issue.

[CamB 48]

What about one of these:

http://www.firstfives.org/faq/aux_air_valv..._air_valve.html

The later one - it has 12v and ground in, it attached to some part of the head and/or valve cover, and when the head is cold it lets air through (so you'd plumb it from one side of the throttle plate to the other). Basically, it raises the idle when cold, but doesn't control it. So you'd need to figure out a way of attaching it to the valve cover or head in a way which could conduct heat to it.

I've got one of them from an M10 that I'm not using (ie free if you want it).

My solution was to get the manifold modifed to use a 60mm Honda throttle body with a proper TPS and a coolant activated cold start air bypass built into the throttle body. I am not planning on using ECU idle control.

Edited May 28, 2009 by CamB

[Guest FrantiC]

What about one of these:

http://www.firstfives.org/faq/aux_air_valv..._air_valve.html

The later one - it has 12v and ground in, it attached to some part of the head and/or valve cover, and when the head is cold it lets air through (so you'd plumb it from one side of the throttle plate to the other). Basically, it raises the idle when cold, but doesn't control it. So you'd need to figure out a way of attaching it to the valve cover or head in a way which could conduct heat to it.

I've got one of them from an M10 that I'm not using (ie free if you want it).

My solution was to get the manifold modifed to use a 60mm Honda throttle body with a proper TPS and a coolant activated cold start air bypass built into the throttle body. I am not planning on using ECU idle control.

Looks abit complex lol. But then I wouldn't have to block off the 2 openings in my TB as they are in the perfect place (pre and post TB). Don't know at this point what I wanna do though, ICV delete on the m20 is apparently as easy as adjusting the throttle plate stop adjust screw..

[CamB 48]

This doesn't do the job of the ICV (stabilise falling revs, adjust revs for electrical load + a/c) - it just makes the car less of a pain in the arse when cold. If you don't mind warming it up then no big deal.

It would in fact be a valid question to wonder why I am bothering with cold start assistance on the race car - the reality is that its attached to the TB in my case, so why not (its on the right in the picture - Honda Prelude TB).

Edited May 28, 2009 by CamB

[Guest FrantiC]

Getting close to the point of being able to run the motor soon.. Not with the turbo though still waiting on the manifold. All wiring is now finished, drilled some holes in a metal plat to mount the megasquirt ECU where the stock ECU fits. Plugged the loom and adapter loom up, just need to run a vacuum line into the car for the ECU.

Put the stock ignition back in, going to run off the dizzy for a while untill I can figure out how to install my coilpacks and coil drivers to megasquirt.

But yeah, Gonna go get my throttlebody welded up tomorrow hopefully, get a variable m20 TPS cos I broke the m50 one and can't be bothered trying to fab a plate to mount it to m20 TB.variable m20 one (found on e32/e34 auto m20) is a straight bolt on except 6pin plug which I will need to rewire into the loom - sure beats trying to make an adapter pate..). Then get some colder spark plugs and I should be able to run it without an IAT sensor I hope... See how I go hopefully have something going by the end of this week!

And if the manifold comes, Hopefully have it running the turbo by next week (no exhaust though )

Edited June 1, 2009 by FrantiC

[Guest FrantiC]

Hmm, Not long to go now.

All thats left is:

-Install throttlebody when it has the extra holes welded closed (doing that as we sepak)

-Install BOV and IAT sensor bung onto my charge piping (doing that now also)

-Run vacuum line to ECU and a couple T fittings for BOV, boost gauge and wastegate.

-Oil feed line, Bought one still waiting for it.. Oil drains all there, just need a gasket and bolt it to turbo

-Install Turbo manifold + weld wastegate flange to it. Install turbo then wastegate.

-New slave cylinder.

-Finish off charge piping from turbo to intercooler, then intercooler to TB (half done, need turbo in and my pipe with the BOV).

-sparkplugs, oil, oil filer, filter for turbo intake.

START HER UP! I'd say I am about 85% complete, probably within 2 weeks of having it running then tune it

Ohh 2 more things to add,

-full 2.5" exhaust, Someone help me find a nice rear muffler!!

-LVV CERT. eeep

Edited June 1, 2009 by FrantiC

[Guest Simon*]

Awesome stuff

Looking forward to seeing it in person sometime

[oscar90 0]

why only a 2.5" exhaust?, u see every man and his dog with just a 2.0 turbo running 3", i don't know anything about how it all works so im not trying to prove a point or anything haha! just interested...?

[Guest FrantiC]

Put it this way.. If you have an e30 - Look at the turbo manifold above. Look in your engine bay at the room you have already with a stock manifold, and stock down pipes off the manifold (look at the exhaust pipes).

Imagine that turbo manifold above, which sticks out furthur, in that small gap there. Then think about the room you are left with to run a dump pipe between that and the steering column!

I will have to really see after I have the manifold and it's in etc, But the outlet of the turbo is 2.5" and I was just gonna run a 2.5" with a free flow muffler and find a nice free flowing dual outlet tip. 3" would be better and more flowing, but cost much more and the downpipe thing freaks me out... I would have F all room to run one and it would be so close to either the block or the steering column.

I still might consider it, if there is a chance of it.. but 2.5" would be fine IMO. Only plan on having it on 10psi tops ATM, if that. Will be daily driven so don't wanna give it too much just yet, But from reading other peoples 2.7i setups with turbos, 10psi should give me close to 280-300hp at the flywheel.

[c.robertson00 11]

This looks tuff az dude! Cant wait ta see it round town!

[Boost Junky 1]

... I would have F all room to run one and it would be so close to either the block or the steering column.

Wanna bet dude

it can be done haha will put some pics up of my downpipe + exhaust setup when its completed... 3" right the way. I seriously nearly went 2.5" cause I just had no way of fitting 3". But after a bit of thinking and trial and error it can be done.. and id be suprised if your turbo manifold is as tight as mine haha. Even if I went to 2.5" it was still looking pretty tight anyways so worked out a way to fit 3".

Edited June 3, 2009 by Boost Junky

[Guest FrantiC]

Haha, Haven't got the manifold with me yet, So can;t really tell what I could fit.

Interested to see pics of yours though! I will do some research what everyone else runs, I reckon 3" possibly would fit but is it worth the extra effort and money is what I wanna know lol.

[Boost Junky 1]

Haha, Haven't got the manifold with me yet, So can;t really tell what I could fit.

Interested to see pics of yours though! I will do some research what everyone else runs, I reckon 3" possibly would fit but is it worth the extra effort and money is what I wanna know lol.

Yea your manifold I think will be much sleeker, mine wasnt well designed the guy that started it off was in a hurry and the very back runner comming out of number six cyl extends out a bit and gradually loops back towards the front of the manifold.. this in turn gives the downpipe no room to go down along side the manifold, instead it has to go to the back of the engine bay and the hook back round the steering arm and back out again under the car.

Either way I would have had to do it this way so thought I may as well go 3" which is what most people told me to run taking into consideration the size turbo I am using and for the boost I could possibly run. 2.5" should be fine on 10psi but it wouldnt hurt to run 3" to be safe (3" = more room for turbo to breathe) remember turbos dont need alot of back pressure.

Heres some quick shots I took:

From the first image you can only imagine the crazy twist the dowpipe does under the turbo manifold once bolted up like in the second pic

Luke

Edited June 3, 2009 by Boost Junky

[Guest FrantiC]

Yea your manifold I think will be much sleeker, mine wasnt well designed the guy that started it off was in a hurry and the very back runner comming out of number six cyl extends out a bit and gradually loops back towards the front of the manifold.. this in turn gives the downpipe no room to go down along side the manifold, instead it has to go to the back of the engine bay and the hook back round the steering arm and back out again under the car.

Either way I would have had to do it this way so thought I may as well go 3" which is what most people told me to run taking into consideration the size turbo I am using and for the boost I could possibly run. 2.5" should be fine on 10psi but it wouldnt hurt to run 3" to be safe (3" = more room for turbo to breathe) remember turbos dont need alot of back pressure.

Heres some quick shots I took:

From the first image you can only imagine the crazy twist the dowpipe does under the turbo manifold once bolted up like in the second pic

Luke

Yeah I think mine would have to be very similar to that. How does the fitment look between block / manifold and the steering linkage stuff ??

Have to wait untill next week, hopefully I will have the manifold and be able to check it all out. Pretty much all I am waiting for at the moment.

If I can run it, then yeah what the heck may run it 3", Would give room to upgrade if I ever did get a bigger turbo or something, save me re-doing the entire exhaust.

Yours is looking good though dude, is yours going yet? Certed and everything? What exhaust tip you gona be using? I don't wanna have a cannon muffler sticking out the rear of mine I want something like dual tips, clean looking.