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Hi-Tek

Nissan R32 GTR track car build

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That cage is a work of art. Good to see 1/8th cleco's being used on something cool (instead of planes!) ;)

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Sorry Jack, Not much news mate.

I'm stuck down in Wellington during the week on The Hobbit and only fly back in the weekends.

Hoping to drop it off to Paul at Precision Autowerk to have the cage/ interior painted in the next week or so.

Really desperate to have it finished before my Christmas break on the 17th December.

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Rightio lads, very small update unfortunately.

Not much progress has happened although its now at the painters (Precision Autowerk), hopefully being painted next week.

We're hoping to have the car done by the end of next week in time for some trackdays over the summer break.

(excuse some of the poor quality cellphone pics)

Door card template (have now finished them, made from ABS plastic)

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Test fitting both seats and harnesses

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Quick release spigot welded onto the steering column

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Steering wheel test fit, still not sure if the off set will be correct

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Harness shoulder strap stays welded on

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ECU holder nearly finished

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Brake reservoir bracket welded in

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Wiper motor mounting point moved to the left slightly as the roll cage interfered with the old mounting point.

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Helmet box mounting brackets done

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Driver and passengers floor pan done

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Brake bias nob ready to attach to the roll cage

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Edited by Hi-Tek

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Hell yeah awesome mate.

If you haven't already made the door cards up let me know, I may be able to help.

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Bit of an update fellas as to where we currently stand with the car.

The cage and interior are painted in a mat grey which is the same colour as the factory engine bay

Had the car out to Hampton Downs 3 times this year (2nd, 7th and 12th Jan), brakes are terrible and the new N35s Endless pads seem to been having a good go at the stock discs which are starting to crack (see pics)

Dodgy 3" brake ducting in place (temporary)

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Brake bias adjuster in place, can be moved about but this seems easily reachable when strapped in

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Steering wheel in place, we've retained the factory adjustments which is good (up and down, in and out)

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Drivers and passengers floor mats fixed in place with rivnuts

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Passengers floor mat, fire extinguisher and window breaker in place

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Helmet box mounted

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Door cards are on (temporary as we want some carbon or fibreglass doors) We tried the car with no electric windows but got so hot we had to cut a hole in the door card to poke the switch through

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Looking inside

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Engine bay currently

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Ranga Cusco 2L Oil catch can (seems to fill up after about 15km of hard track driving, quite boring to drain all the time)

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Gauge panel mockup

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3 trackdays old stock brake discs with Endless N35s pads (already starting to craze)

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At Hampton Downs draining the oil catch can....................again :?

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Racing! (Willie driving)

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As it sits this morning until the next outing at Hampton Downs Saturday February 19th (Open day)

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absolutely beautiful example mate. I hope to see it out on track soon.

Be careful with the factory brakes, they are most definately not upto track duties for any length of time.

Running slicks with a standard engine you are experiencing the RB oil surge where all the oil ends up in the head and out in ya catch can.

Annoying yes, dangerous also when your oil pressure drop on high G turns.

Edited by M5V8

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^

Cheers Darren.

Some big APs are on the list but not quite within reach yet.

Oil pressure seems to remain fairly consistent which is a good thing, the sump has been enlarged ~9L and has a Tomei baffle.

We're aiming to put the oil restrictiors in and also run an oil return off the back of the block. We're also hoping to weld a fitting onto the sump so the catch can can just drain back into the sump at its own free will.

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I'm running D2 8pistons 365mm in the front, basically a AP design & takes AP pads with standard rears & uprated disc's and pads. Had to go to a 18" wheel to accomidate but it stops really well. AP's would be def b better but the D2's do the job.

I have a port on the back end of my head draining to a catchcan which drains back to sump and run custom baffles in the head and sump as I had the same problems with mine.

So far it's working well for me but I haven't had the semi's back on it just yet to check the oil pressure in high G turns.

Sounds like your got the right idea's to do it right the first time. Eddie & the lads from here and GTR-elite will be sure to help you out with advice.

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Here's a video of me driving (badly) at Hampton Downs, constructive criticism welcomed :)

Can someone show me how to embed this in my post so the preview shows rather than the link?

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dang those brakes are squeally!!!

sound like my Pagid's, but they are up to temp and quiet after 1 lap.

and the 4wd makes it look easy.....

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Looks smooth on the track and sounds great, what was your best time in it, it looks fast!

Can you go to a R33 GTR Brembo set up with new pads and floating disks as an economical upgrade, I run a newer version of the GTR’s Brembo’s on my car and they are 330mm, car weighs circa 1,300kg and had no problems with brakes at track days or on Targa.

Also, try Chris Petch at Autoquip Marketing in Penrose, they are New Zealand’s Brembo Performance dealers and you might be surprised at how economical there BIG brake kits are, much cheaper than you would imagine.

Edit: R33.

Edited by Apex

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Rightio lads,

Small update, slowly working towards fixing the over oiling issues.

New oil catch can is done, holds a lightweight odyssey battery which is new also.

The can has a sight glass on the side and a small tap on the bottom to drain the oil (which we'll eventually remove the tap and run a return feed straight to the sump so it will just gravity drain.

We're not quite at the removing the engine stage yet so we can't access the sump to weld return oil feeds from the catch can and the breather plug on the back of the block.

We may just tap into the oil feed return line from the turbo to self drain the oil catch can for now.

In the pipeline is

- Cam baffles

- Oil restrictors

- Drain on the back of the head http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SPOOLR...OilDrainKit.asp

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Edited by hybrid

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Looks really nice man... Also any change you can tell me who did your cage? I've got a friend looking to get one very soon, and wanted to pass on the details. I pm'd you but you didn't reply.

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Small update, no new pics sorry.

Had the plugs out, re-gapped them as they were quite out. We bought a set of cheaper NGK plugs to take to the track to see if they sort the misfire issue before we shell out for a new set of platinums.

Had a little spend up on some Ikeya bits also

- Roll centre adjust pillow arm kit

- Front upper link (non adjustable)

- Rear camber adjuster upper arm set

- Traction adjuster rod set

We're hoping to move up to some 18x10.5 or 11" rims and run Michelin 27-68-18 slicks (if we can get them to fit) or something similar in Dunlop as we plan on running some large brakes soon.

We've had the injectors out and them serviced

MARGIN OF ERROR +/- 2%

02.05.2011

NISSAN/JECS 1 2 3 4 5 6

WIDE OPEN FLOW TEST % 100% 99% 98% 99% 100% 100%

WIDE OPEN IN 1 MINUTE @ 300 KPA 500cc 495cc 490cc 495cc 500cc 500cc

PULSED FLOW TEST % 100% 99% 99% 100% 98% 99%

5.0 M/S PULSE WIDTH @ 7000 RPM 276cc 274cc 274cc 276cc 271cc 274cc

LEAK TEST pass pass pass pass pass pass

PATTERN TEST excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent excellent

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Bit of an update fellas.

We've got a fair few suspension parts on their way over from Japan so will hopefully be installing those next week

We've dropped the rear subframe out of the car along with the diff.

We're solid mounting the subframe and replacing the diff bushes with Powerflex ones.

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powder coat that subframe purple while its out to keep with the powerflex colour scheme :ph34r:

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^

There's going to be enough fruity colours going on under the car without a purple subframe :P

Ended up spending a couple of hours on the lathe on Saturday making some aluminium spacers and bushes for the rear subframe.

The factory Nissan bushes from the top of the subframe to the chassis measured 30.5mm at the rear and 28.5mm at the front.

The bush kit we bought reduced that down to only 9mm both front and rear of the subframe which raised the rear roll centre.

We machined up two 4mm aluminium spacers to put in the rear of the subframe to give us a bit more anti squat than factory which has meant the rear of the subframe now sits 2mm lower than the front

We might make up a few 'C' shaped spacers for the rear of varying thickness's that we would be able to slip into the subframe whilst at the track (would only have to loosen the subframe nuts off and slip them in on the go).

4mm aluminium washer for the back of the subframe

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Washers and spacers done

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Rear about to be tightened up (showing how the spacer slots inside the subframe bush)

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Rear

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Front

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Diff bolted back up with new Powerflex bushes

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Edited by Hi-Tek

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did you ever find out why it kept cutting out at the trackday?

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