Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted July 16, 2013 What kind of starter motor do you need bro? I have a couple lying around, am pretty sure one is an early m20 light one, and another is an m42 ( I think) you can have them if you want to come and grab them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve K-B 51 Report post Posted July 17, 2013 Im running an M20 flywheel so need an M20 starter to match the ring gear. If you have one that would be awesome! Ill bring some beers. Will send a pm. Thanks! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1044 Report post Posted July 17, 2013 Cant wait Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eddie 66 Report post Posted July 17, 2013 The car is looking good. Is the angle of the sway bar links going to be ok lock to lock? I could be wrong but it looks to me that the bar rate will change as the steering is turned. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve K-B 51 Report post Posted July 18, 2013 (edited) Cant wait Believe me, neither can I haha! And cheers for the photo, I like the black rubbing strip. Am kind of torn on what to with the door mouldings. Was origionally going to leave them off but a few of the mounting holes on the car wernt cleaned up before painting so I have a few indentations that stick out... Easily hidden with a bit of black rubber and it actually looks ok. The car is looking good. Is the angle of the sway bar links going to be ok lock to lock? I could be wrong but it looks to me that the bar rate will change as the steering is turned. Thanks for the heads up on this as its a big posability. To be honest I had not considered their position. I just welded them up in place where I thought they looked straight with out geting any strange angles through out the turn. Im all ears on how its supposed to be done, theres only one way to learn! Altho if I change them it will probably be after the first event when I have a bit more time. Edited July 18, 2013 by Steve K-B Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yng_750 247 Report post Posted July 21, 2013 alot of variables to be seen on the sway bar being mounted to the strut. Bear in mind that they are very strong as they dont experience a massive amount of movement. if the strut turning outwards lifts swaybar say 20mm and it turning in on the other side drops it 20mm you will have alot of tension going through the bar resisting the steering forces. This will make the steering heavier and less responsive as a results. it also means wheel movements will try to push the steering, so body roll will try to take the steering away from you. this is only a relevant problem if the sway bar moves opposite directions at each end at any point of steering lock/suspension compression. so i would be jumping under the car and watching the bar while someone winds on lock. do it at full droop, standard height and compressed, if you have the springs off that is. mr2s mount to the strut and have no issues. personally i would fix it to the lower arm, as it only moves in one direction and is easier to eliminate if you have weird handing issues, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hybrid 1044 Report post Posted July 21, 2013 personally i would fix it to the lower arm, as it only moves in one direction and is easier to eliminate if you have weird handing issues, Agreed, I did this and its the best thing since slice bread. Especailly if your running an adjustible setup. One less thing to worry about PS Steve, I called past your workshop today and saw the car in the flesh. I really really love what you've done with it and it truly is a high quality build. Very impressed and you should be hell proud of what you've done with it and all of the hard work of your own that's gone into it. Love the cage and its features. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted July 23, 2013 Hi Steve - car looks mint! Where did the heater core come from? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve K-B 51 Report post Posted July 23, 2013 alot of variables to be seen on the sway bar being mounted to the strut. Bear in mind that they are very strong as they dont experience a massive amount of movement. if the strut turning outwards lifts swaybar say 20mm and it turning in on the other side drops it 20mm you will have alot of tension going through the bar resisting the steering forces. This will make the steering heavier and less responsive as a results. it also means wheel movements will try to push the steering, so body roll will try to take the steering away from you. this is only a relevant problem if the sway bar moves opposite directions at each end at any point of steering lock/suspension compression. so i would be jumping under the car and watching the bar while someone winds on lock. do it at full droop, standard height and compressed, if you have the springs off that is. mr2s mount to the strut and have no issues. personally i would fix it to the lower arm, as it only moves in one direction and is easier to eliminate if you have weird handing issues, Thanks for explaining it. The only reason I mounted it to the strut was because it now moves at a 1:1 ratio with the suspension moment as opposed to the arm where it may be 0.6:1 (or similar) and thought a heavier bar would be more suited to the cars application. IM no suspension expert so ill be checking it out on the hoist this weekend! Agreed, I did this and its the best thing since slice bread. Especailly if your running an adjustible setup. One less thing to worry about PS Steve, I called past your workshop today and saw the car in the flesh. I really really love what you've done with it and it truly is a high quality build. Very impressed and you should be hell proud of what you've done with it and all of the hard work of your own that's gone into it. Love the cage and its features. Thanks Josh, I feel I went backwards last weekend as a few things had to come out including the dash before your visit but overall im fairly happy with how things have gone so far and I appreciate your nice comment. Hi Steve - car looks mint! Where did the heater core come from? Hi cam, Long time no see! I got the heater core and fan from Demon tweeks. The company that makes them also does a slightly bigger version with options for vent direction. up, down, left, right etc. Its not on the demon tweeks website but it its out there some place on the net. Its a very small unit! I kind of wish id bought the next step up but we will see how it goes http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/c...ks-micro-heater Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CamB 48 Report post Posted July 26, 2013 Hi cam, Long time no see! I got the heater core and fan from Demon tweeks. The company that makes them also does a slightly bigger version with options for vent direction. up, down, left, right etc. Its not on the demon tweeks website but it its out there some place on the net. Its a very small unit! I kind of wish id bought the next step up but we will see how it goes http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/c...ks-micro-heater Cool thanks - good to know as I need to do something in mine. It is a long time no see, but the car has seen no progress (other than shifting house)... really, really need to find some time. And stop having children. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve K-B 51 Report post Posted July 26, 2013 Yeah they tend to slow people down in regards to motorsport haha. Tho Unlike cars theyll look after you when your old! A little update: Front is finally together Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MLM 57 Report post Posted July 27, 2013 This project is pure awesome. Love the thought and attention to detail. Looking forward to seeing it run Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted July 27, 2013 Well this has taken shape nicely, coolest compact I've seen! What wheel combo are you going to use to fill the guards? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve K-B 51 Report post Posted July 27, 2013 Thanks, im going to run 18 or 20mm spacers on the rear to push the wheels out but will stick with 17 by 8s. Haven't ordered my wheels yet as im still undecided on a style and it also depends on what I can get with ET15 that are a good weight. Unfortunatly the rear guards are way to big for 17s and there will always be a big gap in the arch. Its just the way they were made. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1284 Report post Posted July 28, 2013 i have some z3 hubs and rear disc brakes which push the wheels out further if needed. cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve K-B 51 Report post Posted July 28, 2013 i have some z3 hubs and rear disc brakes which push the wheels out further if needed. cheers How much diffrent are the hubs? Im running e36 m3 rotors on the rear so wont need the discs. Cheers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BM WORLD 1284 Report post Posted July 28, 2013 How much diffrent are the hubs? Im running e36 m3 rotors on the rear so wont need the discs. Cheers would have to double check i think the 1.9L is about 10mm more and 2L plus is 20mm more Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve K-B 51 Report post Posted August 4, 2013 (edited) Progress!! I finally got the engine to turn over to get the oil pressure up! Its still not running as its getting late, i don't have fuel and i couldn't actually hear the pump running so will try again tomorrow. The EWS slowed me down for hours as I had removed a few wires I needed haha. I knew that was going to happen but thank god I had access to an awesome wiring diagram. It was an awesome feeling just to hear it turn over! Stoked. The EWS interrupts the ignition, starter and fuel pump. If I now have the starter working is it safe to say the ignition and fuel pump should be working? I haven't got as far as testing them yet. Edited August 4, 2013 by Steve K-B Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve K-B 51 Report post Posted August 5, 2013 It RUNS!!!!! So stoked! Firstly I checked for spark, no problem there so then turned to the fuel system. I traced the pump problem to a faulty replay and after swapping it for the horn replay it was sweet! That first start up was so awesome haha. I'm happy as Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e30guydownunder 2 Report post Posted August 5, 2013 Needs more video's mate! Good to see your project making great head way. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve K-B 51 Report post Posted August 5, 2013 It only has short exhaust pipes with out a muffler so sounds like a loud tractor but ill get a video during the week so you can hear its awesomeness Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nobimmer 694 Report post Posted August 5, 2013 Do a skid. Theres 3 cul-de-sac's close enough to you. Awesome bro. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve K-B 51 Report post Posted August 17, 2013 (edited) Took it for its first drive! need to install windows or wait for the rain to stop before I do it again. The brakes need attention, there really soft so may need larger master cylinders to firm them up. Exhaust is done, not a huge fan of the tail pipes but that can be changed after the event. Clutch is feeling good after a swap to a larger master cylinder Everything is wired up Still need spacers for the rear. Video to come shortly! Edited August 17, 2013 by Steve K-B Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HaNs 226 Report post Posted August 17, 2013 Video is private Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Steve K-B 51 Report post Posted August 17, 2013 Sorted!! Thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
