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sti-ted

e30 m50b25

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as far as i remember everything else worked. i think the heater fan would also turn off when it stopped working or something stupid like that.

anyway that what caused my problem, imkinda just saying think outside the box haha. i surely had to

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thanks for the info,my fuel gauge doesnt seem to work either ... :banghead: f%$%$$k

tested earth on both plugs all gud (blue&white plugs) fuel gauge was working on the old gauge cluster.

Edited by frederic

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You could try testing the service indicator batteries in the cluster. Tends to be more of a USA only issue, but does still happen in euro land, and can cause all sorts of issues with the cluster. That and a bad grounding either on the brass nut on the back of the cluster or in the passenger footwell are the main reasons these become faulty.

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thanks for the reply and info.

tested batteries they seem fine

took grounding nuts cleaned both the nut and the washer from gauges...still no go,im not even getting low fuel light coming on.

not quiet sure where the earthing point is in the footwell

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pics as promised.

oil cooler lines.

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oil cooler installed.

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few pics of car as it sits

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Hey mate, where did you get the oil cooler cap adaptor? Does it regulate oil flow when its hot/cold?

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Are the oil cooler lines entering the cooler at the top or bottom. If at the bottom would that not create a air lock within the cooler rendering it in effective. ie only a few rows at the bottom would pass oil while the rest are air?

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i have an oil thermostat between engine feed and return line, basicaly it shuts the return line off until it gets to desired temp, then opens up return line and prevents air in the system. also stops runing oil too cold.

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Very nice ..

Just about to do the same with mine .. bypassing the factory s50 filter housing thermo to go external for my cooler system. After finding out that BMW only allows a little bit of the oil at any one time down the cooler line instead of it all down the cooler. I would rather let an external thermo make the decision instead of it being pressure based as is with BMW's design.

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+1 to what MLM has said. This is rather important

Josh I don't think your right about the s50/54 filter housing. It is purely temperature based and when it is up to temp it is all going to the oil cooler.

The hole going to the filter either blocks the route from the oil cooler or sends it to the oil cooler

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This is the thermostat

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i have an oil thermostat between engine feed and return line, basicaly it shuts the return line off until it gets to desired temp, then opens up return line and prevents air in the system. also stops runing oil too cold.

This might explain what i was getting at better.

http://www.utxchange.com/faq/services/air-...ion-guidelines/

Air, I guess, can enter the system at any time from oil airation or starvation plus the air in the system from installation or oil changes??.

The ability to purge the air like you would in any coolant system is important via bleed screw or an instalation which cannot trap air by design.

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i will look into it, but so far Ive had no issues with cooling cross fingers.

thanks for the heads up

more parts arrived.

95 M3 s50b30us(us spec) cams

turner motorsport chip

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finally sorted my gauges,brought a gauge cluster from jon (jk euro parts) plugged it up everything works. 8-)

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so with the advice from fellow forum members ,i have changed oil cooler around so the lines are running from the top.thanks 8-)

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took the car for a drive look at the mess i made lol

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small update

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cool pic

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small update ,been very busy so not much time spent on beemer.hoping to have it ready for cert next month.

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+1 to what MLM has said. This is rather important

Josh I don't think your right about the s50/54 filter housing. It is purely temperature based and when it is up to temp it is all going to the oil cooler.

I wish it were that simple but its not.

The housing has several caverties .. its not a simple temp oil switch system. Ultimately when the thermostat is open in only allows 'some' oil through to the cooler... not all.

The problem comes when you come along and replace the oil cooler or lines with a greater oil volume. The pressure going into the line simply doesnt have enough pressure to push the oil through them as it takes the path of least resistance back into the sump.

I have a spare one and have done quite a bit of testing on it opening and closing the thermostat using boiling water and having some interesting results that confirm this. There is also and over pressure dump valve that sits in the bottom of the oil filter reservoir.

Here is a link that confirms what I found.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/e36e46-oil-co...valve-p980.aspx

Here is datalogging output I have done/developed also that backs up the claim (its also not a general low / high oil pressure issue as I have another graph tracking pressure) Note: the Oil sensor is post cooler and I have replaced the whole housing with a new one only to have the exact some data / temp problems. Its not a thermostat / blocked lines or airlock issue.

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this was out when I was testing my new brakes .. hence the Throttle / RPM spikes (RPM is on its own axis and doing 7k spikes ). which quickly raises the oil temp. After a normal 100kph drive it falls, but remains over temp. (above 100c) Should be seeing around 80-90c

If you run a greater volume oil cooler and lines on one of these housing types (s50/s54 housing) the only way around it for true track temp control is a true bypass 'plug which blocks it and forces all the oil down into the cooler. If you use the car on the road in winter, you really need an external oil thermostat, else your oil never gets up to temp.

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thanks guys , yeah seats are nzkw...if I was to do it again I wouldn't bother with sliders pieces of shyte oh well U live and learn.

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Where did you get the oil filter housing?

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Where did you get the oil filter housing?

ive got the crowds name in the garage, ill go have a look tomorrow and get back to you.

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