E28 535E M30B35 Swap

[M M 250]

Hmm strange. Everything I have read says the arms should fit.

You're more than welcome to grab my subframe and compare it to yours. I also have two sets of late arms here if you want to plaY also

Yeah, same here which is why I was quite surprised. Might take you up on that to compare later.

The rear of my 85 is quite different to my 86. Maybe they only work on later cars?

That did come to my mind also. Probably the case.

[E30-323ti 66]

Yeah, same here which is why I was quite surprised. Might take you up on that to compare later.

The rear of my 85 is quite different to my 86. Maybe they only work on later cars?

That did come to my mind also. Probably the case.

The early E28's have a different subframe and trailing arms than the later (same as E34 arms).

The sweep angle is different 15° on the old (same as an E30) and 12° on the later, they also have the 'dog-bone' links that dynamically control toe to reduce the toe-in as the suspension squats.

So best go find yourself a later model subframe.

This is what I have in my E30.

Edited April 13, 2016 by E30-323ti

[eliongater 718]

Could you put the entire e34 subframe in?

[M M 250]

The early E28's have a different subframe and trailing arms than the later (same as E34 arms).

The sweep angle is different 15° on the old (same as an E30) and 12° on the later, they also have the 'dog-bone' links that dynamically control toe to reduce the toe-in as the suspension squats.

So best go find yourself a later model subframe.

This is what I have in my E30.

That makes sense, as my one does not have mounts for dog bones at all. Sort of wish I knew this before doing the bushes but it will be a job for the future. Thanks for the information.

Could you put the entire e34 subframe in?

This is what I was thinking to do, but apparently without a lot of work it won't, and looking at the e34 compared to the e28, I was inclined to argree.

[E30-323ti 66]

Yeah, the E32 / 34 subframes are too wide, and the diff casing & mounts are completely different.

A late E28 one should be easy to find, Brent use to have heaps of them.

Obviously you can't use the late arms with the early subframe...

[M M 250]

Found an E36 radiator that fits perfectly between the chassis rails so made some mounts and now it's in.

Also fitted my engine mounts and adapters. The adapters needed a couple of small alterations before everything lined up 100%, somewhat like a custom-made suit, if you will.

Also sideways mode has been activated with the installation of the LSD:

I also replaced the center bearing in the driveshaft but the front needs to be modified as it's not the same as the e34 one, meaning it doesn't like up with the guibo.

And this one's entitled "A new perspective":

[qube 3570]

this is so exciting

[Olaf 3342]

Also sideways mode has been activated with the installation of the LSD:

outstanding.

[M M 250]

Went in on Friday afternoon to do some more work and things were going well, on track to have the engine in the car this weekend. Until I went to swap the exhaust manifold to the e28 one. This is where things came to a halt, much like a stance car that has hit an unforseen bump.

So 9 of the studs came out nicely, either stud and nut or nuts came off. But 3 didn't want to play along, snapping under the nut. There was some stud protruding so I thought it was in luck. However this was not the case.

I tried doing the double nut trick, welding the nuts to the studs, vice grips etc. Either the stud would not budge, or it just snapped, leaving me nothing to work with. Still, not the end of the world, time for the drill.

So I went about trying to drill them out, which went well on 2 of them, however on the third, the drill bit snapped inside the hole.

If my emotions at the time could be expressed in an image, I think this would be fitting:

The offending obstruction that will need extraction:

If this wasn't enough to set me off, I went to try and buy some tools I thought might work to try and resolve this sinkhole of a situation, such as carbine tungsten drill bits to hopefully drill through the drill bit, every shop I went to was either closed or had nothing.

So not only do I now have extra expenses and the awaiting of a very unpleasant task, but my weekend is also wasted as I couldn't do anything further. Which has also delayed my driveshaft as I can't drop it off to be modified until I am sure how long it needs to be, which I need the motor in for.

So there you have it. Here I was hoping I could show you all how to do an M30 conversion in a week. Might be 2 weeks now.

Edited April 16, 2016 by M M

[Ahmedsinc 414]

Bloody hell, that's unfortunate!

Do the older engines have the copper exhaust nuts as well? I chickened out and drowned the ones on the project engine in AC-90 for 48 hours before I removed the studs. Worked a treat

[M M 250]

Bloody hell, that's unfortunate!

Do the older engines have the copper exhaust nuts as well? I chickened out and drowned the ones on the project engine in AC-90 for 48 hours before I removed the studs. Worked a treat

Don't think these were as they were rusted. I blasted these in good penetrating fluid before trying to undo them but it didn't work.

[BM WORLD 1286]

gotta use lots of heat sometimes that breaks up the rust etc

[eliongater 718]

I might be doing this swap to my engineless m535i soon, so I'll probably need some tips.

[duvey 245]

Bad luck re stud. Making good progress nonetheless!

[M M 250]

gotta use lots of heat sometimes that breaks up the rust etc

That was the first thing I tried, but it didn't work. So I hoped that the heat from the welder would be enough but even that wasn't.

I might be doing this swap to my engineless m535i soon, so I'll probably need some tips.

Feel free to ask me anything you need, I'm happy to help but I am not the most knowledgeable here by any means.

Bad luck re stud. Making good progress nonetheless!

Thanks.

I decided to put my Sunday off to good use and do some work on my new cluster.

Pulled it apart and removed the batteries. I don't care if the SI lights don't work if it means the cluster lasts longer. Unfortunately the batteries have already leaked a bit so I'm hoping this cluster works fully, I haven't tested it.

Painted the needles red and polished the clear cover on the front.

I wanted to remove the red lense for the lights that light up the cluster to get a white light, however I found out that it's moulded into the top of the cluster so it's going to take some work to do. I'll work on that once my other cluster is out so I have a spare to mess with.

[eliongater 718]

That was the first thing I tried, but it didn't work. So I hoped that the heat from the welder would be enough but even that wasn't.

Feel free to ask me anything you need, I'm happy to help but I am not the most knowledgeable here by any means.

Thanks.

I decided to put my Sunday off to good use and do some work on my new cluster.

Pulled it apart and removed the batteries. I don't care if the SI lights don't work if it means the cluster lasts longer. Unfortunately the batteries have already leaked a bit so I'm hoping this cluster works fully, I haven't tested it.

Painted the needles red and polished the clear cover on the front.

I wanted to remove the red lense for the lights that light up the cluster to get a white light, however I found out that it's moulded into the top of the cluster so it's going to take some work to do. I'll work on that once my other cluster is out so I have a spare to mess with.

I hope it doesn't turn into a... Cluster f**k.

Sorry couldn't help myself

[M M 250]

I hope it doesn't turn into a... Cluster f**k.

Sorry couldn't help myself

Hahaha. Good one.

[Jibs05 86]

hmmmm

[Olaf 3342]

gotta use lots of heat sometimes that breaks up the rust etc

That was the first thing I tried, but it didn't work. So I hoped that the heat from the welder would be enough but even that wasn't.

I think this is where these new-fangled electric welders aren't much help. this is where you need a gas set, and if I recall correctly, the flame trimmed orange... slowly heating up the area till it's glowing orangey-red, cooling (naturally), then another cycle or two.

[M M 250]

I think this is where these new-fangled electric welders aren't much help. this is where you need a gas set, and if I recall correctly, the flame trimmed orange... slowly heating up the area till it's glowing orangey-red, cooling (naturally), then another cycle or two.

I first tried a blow torch. The welder thing was just as a "if the blow torch didn't do it, this should have" remark. Interesting point though.

Update for the thread. All I have to say about last night is this:

[Ahmedsinc 414]

I first tried a blow torch.

CNG / LPG burners aren't a hell of a lot of use in this situation, they only burn at 1950ºC compared to roughly 3500ºC from an oxy - acetylene torch.

[M M 250]

Well, it's out now.

[francoisv 466]

Hey man, what radiator did you use? Out of an E36...?

[M M 250]

Hey man, what radiator did you use? Out of an E36...?

Yep, e36. Fits like it was made for this car.

[francoisv 466]

so any e36? Im about to get to the water cooling system for my 28 and need a radiator to fit. I have another one from the 325i but its doesn't quite fit right