Building a Garage in Wellington

[Kepes 231]

So as the rust on my E30 continues to get worse and a turbo build looms on the horizon, I've decided that it's time to build a garage. 

Before I make contact with the ~7 or so different companies who specialize in this area, does anybody have any first hand experience who could potentially reduce this list and sway me towards a particular company and point me in the right direction.

The garage will be approx 5x7 or so, just big enough for one car and a little space to work/move around. 

It seems like a steel kitset may be the best bet, however if wood is cheaper then I'll go with that. I'd like to save money where I can. The kit sets also appear to reasonably easy to erect so I'll also consider doing that myself but have a professional lay the concrete slabs, sort out the consents etc.

I'm still learning a lot about all of this and came here before contacting a garage company so please excuse my lack of knowledge, I've looked at everything I could find through google but there isn't a lot in terms of testimonials and a guide on pricing, although from what I can tell this should cost between 15-20k for a basic garage without electricity hooked up. 

I will attach a photo of the space where the garage will go tomorrow

Thanks,
Toby

[gjm 3258]

Steel kitsets are fairly reasonably priced and you can even find good ones secondhand.

Timber breathes better - I've had condensation issues in metal garages (think what it'll be like on a sunny day) but that was years ago. Could be different now, especially if it has good ventilation.

[Kepes 231]

2 minutes ago, gjm said:

Steel kitsets are fairly reasonably priced and you can even find good ones secondhand.

Timber breathes better - I've had condensation issues in metal garages (think what it'll be like on a sunny day) but that was years ago. Could be different now, especially if it has good ventilation.

I never thought about that, thanks! Quick google search reveals that it can be a bit of an issue, but like you said good ventilation would be key. Ha, reminds me of when I had an engine block in the boot of my car for a week. The entire boot was soaked through because of condensation on the block 
 

[richard 384]

consider entry points. ie   ;  are you going to enter, drive in the 7m side or the 5m side, windows for work bench etc

[allan 295]

This of any help

http://www.quinbuildings.co.nz/garages/double/double-2/

 

[zero 1162]

Build it bigger than you need.

[gjm 3258]

Just now, zero said:

Build it bigger than you need.

This. Always.

It'll still not be big enough.

[aja540i 1906]

I built a 6 x 7 total span at my place about 7 years ago, all up was around 30k, I got someone to do the slab and I did the rest. I had to get a fire engineers report because I was close to the boundary, as well as a survey to check the boundry. I also had to get an engineer to do a PS 4 because I built it myself (about $500 from memory) I have one of those wind powered ventilators so no condensation issues, but it still gets hot in summer. I also increased the wall height to 3m so I could have a gantry beam running across with a chain block for lifting engines etc. I also spent a lot getting power put in, I have 20 x 10 amp plugs, 1 x 15 amp, and 1 x 32 amp for my welders. (Still not enough!!) Inside is lined with 12mm ply so I can attach stuff to walls, and it is insulated with noise stop batts to keep the neighbours happy!

Have fun!

[Kepes 231]

 

14 hours ago, aja540i said:

I built a 6 x 7 total span at my place about 7 years ago, all up was around 30k, I got someone to do the slab and I did the rest. I had to get a fire engineers report because I was close to the boundary, as well as a survey to check the boundry. I also had to get an engineer to do a PS 4 because I built it myself (about $500 from memory) I have one of those wind powered ventilators so no condensation issues, but it still gets hot in summer. I also increased the wall height to 3m so I could have a gantry beam running across with a chain block for lifting engines etc. I also spent a lot getting power put in, I have 20 x 10 amp plugs, 1 x 15 amp, and 1 x 32 amp for my welders. (Still not enough!!) Inside is lined with 12mm ply so I can attach stuff to walls, and it is insulated with noise stop batts to keep the neighbours happy!

Have fun!

Cheers Andrew, exactly the type of info I was looking for, nice to get a price! Mine too will be close to the boundary so likely that I'll need a fire engineers report. No welding for me so power needs are not quite as complex. Ply lining is a great idea, never thought of that. Was total span easy to deal with and are you happy with how the garage has held up 7 years on?


I would love to have a great big garage but i'm trying to keep costs down here and as you can see from the attached photos space is a bit of an issue. I would like to keep some space between the bedroom window (right) and the garage to allow light into the room. With a 5m wide garage there is about a 2.5m space between where the garage would be and the house (wall, not roof)

 

 

Edited November 16, 2016 by Kepes

[aja540i 1906]

Total span was ok to deal with, but they are franchises so each area will be different, but the product has held up really well, the main reason I chose them was because of the design of the frame, no horizontal bars on the roof framing so more clearance for overhead stuff.I had similar Iissues with space at my place, 6 x 7 was the biggest I could fit!!

[Neal 544]

Can't speak on which company to go with but I have spent far too much time on the site below looking for ideas. Has everything from well planned basic to money no object sublime . Might help you decide on which way to go or what features you may want .

 

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=a02d1fe059b832c2269d740e66f804fc&f=7

[zero 1162]

Toby, it looks like you have a concrete base already.

How thick is it as you may be able to dynobolt straight to it if you are wanting to keep your costs down.

[kiwi535 538]

i work for a prenaill place.We cant touch the likes of versatile etc.They have there own garage specific designs which would not be good enough  for a habitable space.The timber ones use an absolute minimum of timber.They all use metal cladding so the condensation will be similar,but the steel frames ones will also get condensation on the framing members..Timber is a little more user friendly for fixing stuff too.If you want to lift engines etc then let them know that from the start.They may have a special truss design for that.If you can manage to get ply in the corners that will make the whole garage much stronger.Strength is not much of an issue cos they have no mass in them .

Is that part height concrete wall in really good condition?You may be able to put the garage walls straight on top of them

I would think that they(the garage people) would all have "designs" suitable for being closer to the boundary .Some kind of non combustible thermal resitant material under the stell cladding would do the trick i think.

Edited November 16, 2016 by kiwi535

[Kepes 231]

1 hour ago, zero said:

Toby, it looks like you have a concrete base already.

How thick is it as you may be able to dynobolt straight to it if you are wanting to keep your costs down.

Not sure how thick it is, however before I was born there was a car port in that exact space where I want the garage, so I assume it is reasonably thick.

The trouble with that concrete is that it is not smooth which makes jacking up the car with a trolley jack quite sketchy as the wheels on the jack can't move freely. Also lying on your back etc under the car is painful because of the little pebbles(?) in the concrete.
 

1 hour ago, kiwi535 said:

i work for a prenaill place.We cant touch the likes of versatile etc.They have there own garage specific designs which would not be good enough  for a habitable space.The timber ones use an absolute minimum of timber.They all use metal cladding so the condensation will be similar,but the steel frames ones will also get condensation on the framing members..Timber is a little more user friendly for fixing stuff too.If you want to lift engines etc then let them know that from the start.They may have a special truss design for that.If you can manage to get ply in the corners that will make the whole garage much stronger.Strength is not much of an issue cos they have no mass in them .

Is that part height concrete wall in really good condition?You may be able to put the garage walls straight on top of them

I would think that they(the garage people) would all have "designs" suitable for being closer to the boundary .Some kind of non combustible thermal resitant material under the stell cladding would do the trick i think.

Fantastic info... I will definitely mention engine lifting, do it once do it right. Interesting point about strength but like you say it's not much of an issue.

The concrete wall is in quite good condition, the car port was fixed to it when it existed. I did think about putting the garage walls on top of it and will most definitely suggest it to whichever company I go with, hopefully saving a few dollars. The issue I see with it though is that there are drains in the wall, if you look at the photos you will see little circle cutouts, but I've never seen water gushing out of them and even after rain once things dry out there is no water 'trail' from them so they're probably already blocked 

[aja540i 1906]

Your main issue with using the existing pad and wall will be proving to the council that they are up to the job, they are getting really strict on that stuff now, also you will need to have a rebate in the concrete for where the door closes and your floor level has to be at least 150mm higher than the ground level (from memory) so it may be easier to rip it out and start again, plus you will get a nice new smooth floor!!

You will also need to tell whoever you use if you are going to line the inside as they normally space the studs at 900mm which is no good for attaching ply or gib to.

[Kepes 231]

11 hours ago, aja540i said:

Your main issue with using the existing pad and wall will be proving to the council that they are up to the job, they are getting really strict on that stuff now, also you will need to have a rebate in the concrete for where the door closes and your floor level has to be at least 150mm higher than the ground level (from memory) so it may be easier to rip it out and start again, plus you will get a nice new smooth floor!!

You will also need to tell whoever you use if you are going to line the inside as they normally space the studs at 900mm which is no good for attaching ply or gib to.

Good points, the current pad is quite rough and weeds grow in between the cracks (it's made from square 'patches' rather than just one single pad) so I think I'll go with a whole new pad, especially given that it needs to be raised.

Got a my first quote on a kitset today, $11,500 (incl GST) for a 7.2m x 6m. Doesn't include power, pad, assembly etc. Does include delivery. 
That's with an access door, a window, and two roller doors. 

I don't need a window and I'm happy with just one roller door. How important is an access door? I assume it's required by law? 

Also in the notes it mentions having "Timber Fascia," is that like the lining inside?

Good to get my first quote, will be interesting to see what they say when I get somebody to actually come round and have a look re anchoring the back and side to that existing concrete wall.

Edited November 17, 2016 by Kepes

[aja540i 1906]

Fascia is the boards around the outside at the top of the walls, usually has the spouting attached to it. I only got one roller door, but I recommend an access door as its a bit of a pain opening the roller door every time you go in or out! The window doesnt matter, I have one but I put a curtain on it so I dont piss the neighbours off welding at night, and its always closed, so not much point having it really.

[Neal 544]

Slightly off your topic but this was my favourite garage in terms of ideas for a garage workshop. Has really well planned spaces and I like the drop down wall benches.

http://www.12-gaugegarage.com/photos/index.html

[Olaf 3317]

natural light rules, I'd always have a window.  

Toby, you don't need to weld now.... but you will in the future!  Get the high-current outlets planned for.

A topping slab may be your answer, if the existing slab is strong enough.

A number of mates who've built garages have remarked it's useful getting higher quality building paper.  Probably helps with condensation.

Kilbirnie/Lyall Bay - no issue with condensation, the sun exposure bakes and heats steel garage all year round, you'd be amazed.  You'll want high quality galv though, due to proximity to sea/salt driven by the wind.

Roller doors take up less storage space.

Build it high enough to get a 4x4 inside.  

 

HTH

[kiwi535 538]

consider some plastic roofing for natural light

[Neal 544]

Don't get a tiltadoor unless it's sectional.Made that mistake with my first one. It occasionally would hit a car or guest car if parked to close. Not good with kids either.

also limits how much height you have to play with an engine when using an engine hoist if door open.

[kiwi535 538]

18 hours ago, Neal said:

Don't get a tiltadoor unless it's sectional.Made that mistake with my first one. It occasionally would hit a car or guest car if parked to close. Not good with kids either.

also limits how much height you have to play with an engine when using an engine hoist if door open.

thats true of any garage door except a roller.They all go up and over a distance at least equal to their height.At least one half of the garage ceiling will be covered by the door when it is open

[huff3r 347]

4 hours ago, kiwi535 said:

thats true of any garage door except a roller.They all go up and over a distance at least equal to their height.At least one half of the garage ceiling will be covered by the door when it is open

Yes but a sectional doesn't tilt out in front and hit parked cars, and also doesn't tilt across inside the shed as much either.

[Kepes 231]

Got a second quote today. This one includes everything. The kit, concrete pad, erection of the kit, power etc. No Personal access door however, which after some consideration I decided it's worth getting, makes it a lot easier now than if I changed my mind in the future.
So at 5x7m it's $18,500 incl all the things mentioned above. Very reasonable me thinks.

This was with the company Kiwispan who have mixed reviews online. The kitsets themselves are reasonable quality from what I read and people say that they are very flexible with design which would be handy if anchoring the garage to the existing wall was an option. The downside is that the actual construction of the kitsets are contracted to a local builder/builders and often done to a poor standard. 

Paul - great idea and definitely something I want since there will be no windows.

Definitely not getting a tilt door either.

On 11/18/2016 at 6:18 AM, Olaf said:

natural light rules, I'd always have a window.  

Toby, you don't need to weld now.... but you will in the future!  Get the high-current outlets planned for.

A topping slab may be your answer, if the existing slab is strong enough.

A number of mates who've built garages have remarked it's useful getting higher quality building paper.  Probably helps with condensation.

Kilbirnie/Lyall Bay - no issue with condensation, the sun exposure bakes and heats steel garage all year round, you'd be amazed.  You'll want high quality galv though, due to proximity to sea/salt driven by the wind.

 

HTH

 You're not wrong, I've already started watching welding youtube tutorials 

I will enquire about a topping slab, never thought of that

I'm in Seatoun Heights, plenty of sun and wind up here to help keep condensation to a minimum hopefully yet far enough from salty air for it to be too much of an issue.

[Olaf 3317]

all sounds good, Toby.  Bear in mind that basically the whole of the eastern suburbs is a windblown salt zone - don't scrimp on the metal for your garage.