Jacko 2156 Report post Posted August 6, 2018 Day 2 part 2 Sump off. Quiet odd, bolt torques were allover the place, some were hand tight others very tight. May have been oil interfering with the factory thread locker? The drain back tube from the CCV system would be a total mare to remove without the quick disconnect tool (1/2"). Its very tight and in a very tight spot. Id place money on the fact they all seem to leak at the same spot, lowest aft corner, is that that is also the location where the gasket steel frame is also joined.. German engineering! Will put it back together with a thin smear of sealant. I was hoping to pull the windage tray off too have more of a looksee at the innards but it requires disturbing the oil pick up into the pump, and id rather not bust an o ring and cause it to starve. Bloody hard to get a decent picture of block innards... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted August 7, 2018 Day.. Tuesday. Sump cleaned up, oil level sensor seal changed. Sump gasket and the sensor seal were very brittle. Surprising it didnt leak more to be honest. Getting the sump back in and lined up is a bit of a dexterity test... But once in its in! Would be so much easier to do in a hoist and with the subframe totally out of the picture. Torquing it all back down is time consuming but straight forward - 8Nm +90 degrees. Engine mounts are simple, problem is the top of them isnt keyed to the engine, so need to be tightened with the lower section already in the lower key.. Access to the top nut is a bit of pig with the lowers tight however! The old mounts have noticeably more movement in them than the new, no sign of rubber cracking but I assume the fluid filled lower section is dead. Lining the subframe up and bolting it back down is a bit like wrestling a mechanical octopus... Could do just the sump gasket in 2 days pretty easily. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted August 10, 2018 Oh theres a scratch. Oh theres another dent. Oh theres another stone chip. There is a reason people pay other people to do this stuff :D 2 Hours per panel.. but shes looking pretty shiney! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 (edited) A few more days of wet and dry sanding, compounding, polishing, realising missed a spot, OCDing, starting again, and its getting there. It also goes now Matt black rear valance looks pretty good (plastidipped), stands out less than the silver/grey standard colour. Engine is actually noticeably smoother with the new engine mounts, I guess they dont last 250,000k. Still have the roof to clean up, was too tall on the jack stands, and then its ceramic coating followed by a few beers. Edited August 13, 2018 by Jacko 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 Nice work. Is it just the photo, or does the old engine oil look dodgy? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Olaf 3317 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 awesome work, Chris! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted August 13, 2018 8 hours ago, zero said: Nice work. Is it just the photo, or does the old engine oil look dodgy? There isnt really a pic of the old oil, (other than the windage plate?) inside of the sump is funny looking full of ripples from when they press it, and it reflects light strangely. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted August 15, 2018 Done. Beer time. Figure out what Ive busted on the front PDC sensors tomorrow Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted August 20, 2018 I need to sort out insurance for this thing next week, the agreed value keeps dropping each year and Id never be able to replace it for what its currently insured at. Any input on whats a realistic figure? I roughly know what Ive spent on it in total, way over 20, but I figure I could semi-replace it for 17ish ? 2006 (Dec 05) 130i, NZ new (1 of 15) Full service history, until the start of this thread .. 246k on the clock (but looks better, even on the inside, than most sub 100k cars) Birds B1 kit, Quaife diff and the other stuff in this thread 19x8.5" ACS Type IV (genuine) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted December 15, 2018 Bit of an update, the PU bushes that came with the eibach sway bars started creaking, coupla thousand ks post install, they have some sorta cloth embedded into the internal surface and used some flavour of white grease. Dropped the bars, cleaned all the white goo out and replaced with the clear goo that came with the Superpro PU bushes (that are on everything else, and dont squeek/creek). All working good. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Eagle 1662 Report post Posted December 15, 2018 Anti-seize has been my go to for all poly bushings for a long time. Nicer to apply and lasts much longer than anything ive had supplied ie lithium based stuff 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
*Glenn* 854 Report post Posted December 15, 2018 Wurth Copper Slip is the best product to use in these applications 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///M 22 Report post Posted January 7, 2019 Awesome project Jacko! I love the attention to detail and parts used. What’s your updated thoughts on the UUC front carrier and TMS rear shifter bushing? I’m thinking of going down this route myself. Have you noticed and increase in NVH- particularly gear whine? Also, has the shift effort increased? I like the idea of having a more defined shifter that effortlessly clicks into place 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted January 8, 2019 6 hours ago, ///M said: Awesome project Jacko! I love the attention to detail and parts used. What’s your updated thoughts on the UUC front carrier and TMS rear shifter bushing? I’m thinking of going down this route myself. Have you noticed and increase in NVH- particularly gear whine? Also, has the shift effort increased? I like the idea of having a more defined shifter that effortlessly clicks into place NVH - No not really, the SMF caused way more (my guess anyway, I did it all at once ,but changing box fluid flavour stopped any gearlash chatter when the fluid got warm) Shift effort is the same, but its very very direct, nearly feels gated. I drove another manual car last month, and realised how much better the 130 shift is now. Definitely a good upgrade and its easy to do. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted May 21, 2019 Starters been on the fritz for last week or two, was planning on doing it and rebuilding the DISA valves this weekend. Assumed the DISAs would be well overdue for a rebuild at 1 billion km... Starter decided to drop its lunch outside Mitre 10 today. Lucky was a 2min walk to repco for a hail mary jump start.. Starter motor change got moved from this weekend to this evening Surprisingly DISA valves look absolutely mint, no point fixing them.. No slop at all. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted May 21, 2019 Curious... and weeping a bit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted June 9, 2019 12 months since the first clean up and ceramic coating, used the rest of the sonax profiline kit up.. the 2nd step gloss coat has run out of propellant so had to cut the can open and do it the old fashioned way. 12 hours later, its pretty shiney. Last application was still beading 6 months later, didnt do the wheels the first time around but did on this go, will be interesting to see how long it holds up. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///M 22 Report post Posted August 8, 2019 Hey Chris. Now that you’ve had some time to acclimatise to the birds B1 setup, do you have any updated impressions? I’m particularly interested in whether you consider the Quaife diff worth it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted August 8, 2019 40 minutes ago, ///M said: Hey Chris. Now that you’ve had some time to acclimatise to the birds B1 setup, do you have any updated impressions? I’m particularly interested in whether you consider the Quaife diff worth it? Ive got use to it to be fair, but then I go drive a few other 1 and 3s, and the difference is night and day. They should have come from the factory with the B1 dampener/spring rates. Its totally worth it, quaife changes the car. With the DSC enabled, pushing the limits with a stock 130 results in the dash flashing lights and sadness, whereas with the quaife its something more akin to a "track mode", all the nannies are still on but because the wheel speed doesnt differ like an open diff ,the point where nanny steps in is much higher as shes oblivious to the fun being had. DTC just pushes the limits out further, and off is full fun mode Its way more tractable off the line (Can get .5s faster than BMWs 0-60 numbers, on a car with 260,000km on clock and no "performance" mods), way more predictable at the limits, and doesnt skip and crash around the place on NZ's shitty B roads. Got a VTNZ wof on it the other day, tech thought the odo was wrong or dash had been changed out. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///M 22 Report post Posted August 8, 2019 Thanks for the detailed response- clears up a lot of things for me! Out of interest, with the LSD, is throttle initiated oversteer easier or are the grip levels higher thus oversteer tendencies tamed? Secondly, apart from good tyres, if you were to do it all over again would you opt for suspension first or go LSD straight away? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted August 8, 2019 Easier, and more happy to oversteer Vs just light up one tyre. I run 235/35/19s and its pretty balanced, and it has enough torque to have fun, even with "wide" rubber. Definitely go for a square tyre setup, Ive run 215 / 245 for a few weeks while wheels were getting refurbed and it sucked, understeer as soon as loaded up in a corner. Honestly, Id just grab the whole B1 kit in one go, but provided your original shocks etc arent flogged just doing the diff first is probably a good step. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
///M 22 Report post Posted August 8, 2019 Awesome! Thanks for the advice Chris. I was thinking 235/40/18 myself (square setup); good to know I'm on the right track. Are you running e9x M3 alignment specs? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted August 9, 2019 28 minutes ago, ///M said: Awesome! Thanks for the advice Chris. I was thinking 235/40/18 myself (square setup); good to know I'm on the right track. Are you running e9x M3 alignment specs? Yup, e92 m3 alignment. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted August 14, 2019 (edited) New little project to potter away with. Strip, media blast, repaint phoenix yellow and rebuild them as BMWP units. Edited August 14, 2019 by Jacko 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jacko 2156 Report post Posted September 22, 2019 (edited) Slow progress, but progress.. 2nd round of paint stripper, 3rd should have it. The factory paint is toughAF, bead blaster doesnt even touch it. Still havent found a source for high temp phoenix yellow locally, any suggestions? Edited September 22, 2019 by Jacko 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
