zero 1162 Report post Posted December 10, 2018 59 minutes ago, Gaz said: If a vehicle comes with bump stops then it needs bump stops for the WOF. They can also fail you on brake rotors if they suspect they are undersized, it is then up to you to prove otherwise Dont they need to measure the rotors for thickness, not just if they suspect it? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
B.M.W Ltd 950 Report post Posted December 10, 2018 1 minute ago, zero said: Dont they need to measure the rotors for thickness, not just if they suspect it? No...visual only... you need to then be able to show proof of compliance Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz 1062 Report post Posted December 10, 2018 1 minute ago, zero said: Dont they need to measure the rotors for thickness, not just if they suspect it? Depends where you go. A mechanic would more than likely wheels off and measure properly as long as the discs had the min thickness stamped on them, but a testing station wouldnt. Same goes for window tints, if there are no markings then they can be failed and up to you to prove that they are ok Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted December 10, 2018 On 11/28/2018 at 7:12 PM, M3AN said: They measured the brake rotors? And bump stops are not a matter for a WoF, many cars come from the factory without them. How do you not notice missing wheel bolts... on all On 11/28/2018 at 7:12 PM, M3AN said: They measured the brake rotors? And bump stops are not a matter for a WoF, many cars come from the factory without them. How do you not notice missing wheel bolts... on all wheels? lol. Oi.....loose nuts are an issue. ??? Missing wheel nuts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted December 10, 2018 5 hours ago, zero said: Dont they need to measure the rotors for thickness, not just if they suspect it? If there is a major lip on the edge or the condition of it seems too thin... then they'd measure brru Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted December 10, 2018 (edited) Edited December 10, 2018 by e39525iM Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted December 10, 2018 6 hours ago, Gaz said: If a vehicle comes with bump stops then it needs bump stops for the WOF. They can also fail you on brake rotors if they suspect they are undersized, it is then up to you to prove otherwise That's fascinating... I believe you but it seems totally arbitrary... ...for a start how do they know if the vehicle came standard with bump stops or not? e.g. E36 Ti none at the rear and other E36's do have them... no workshop can be expected to police that and no consumer could be expected to prove it... also, you can't test them even if they are present... so what constitutes a viable bump stop? ...and there's no plausible way for a mechanic to determine if a specific diameter rotor is good/bad/acceptable/etc nor can they reasonably look that up and a consumer can't prove it (in any practical sense) one way or another... rotor diameter isn't even a valid metric with respect to absolute brake performance... I'd be quite interested in failing on one of those points because you can be sure as hell I'd be disputing it! If it weren't a PITA I'd remove my rear bump stops just to see what happened at the next WoF lol. Just goes to show how subjective a safety test, that should be objective, really is. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gaz 1062 Report post Posted December 10, 2018 It's not the diameter it's the thickness which should be stamped on the rotors. At least with genuine ones they are Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad_Max 233 Report post Posted December 10, 2018 1 hour ago, M3AN said: That's fascinating... I believe you but it seems totally arbitrary... ...for a start how do they know if the vehicle came standard with bump stops or not? e.g. E36 Ti none at the rear and other E36's do have them... no workshop can be expected to police that and no consumer could be expected to prove it... also, you can't test them even if they are present... so what constitutes a viable bump stop? ...and there's no plausible way for a mechanic to determine if a specific diameter rotor is good/bad/acceptable/etc nor can they reasonably look that up and a consumer can't prove it (in any practical sense) one way or another... rotor diameter isn't even a valid metric with respect to absolute brake performance... I'd be quite interested in failing on one of those points because you can be sure as hell I'd be disputing it! If it weren't a PITA I'd remove my rear bump stops just to see what happened at the next WoF lol. Just goes to show how subjective a safety test, that should be objective, really is. Arbitrary, yes. Bump stops, I have removed completely perished ones from the front and rear of my old E36 sedan and nothing was said, so it completely comes down to the inspector at the time and whether they notice (and yes that was an inspection at VTNZ of all places). Most OEM rotors have a minimum thickness stamped on them on the inside. If for some reason the inspector thinks they are under this minimum thickness, they can fail them on it. Rotor thickness is however a valid metric, once it gets too thin there are a few potential issues. Heat dissipation and overheating are a major concern with heavy braking, and there's always the slim chance (I say slim because I've never seen it happen but the potential apparently is there) that the pistons will come too far out of the calipers, causing major failure. I agree completely that it is subjective, having spent time in Melbourne as a motor mechanic we couldn't fail brakes on visual inspections for anything other than fluid leaks, cracked hoses or worn pads/shoes. The system over there relies on wheels being removed and discs being measured, brake drums removed and linings inspected etc. Not just a quick glance and "hey that looks a bit thin, think I'll fail that", actual hard data. Unfortunately though, most WOF inspectors over here will stick to the whole "it's a visual inspection only" guideline that is the basis of the WOF system, and not go the extra yard to provide hard evidence that there is something wrong. And then you get the d**k mechanics who tell you you have to replace the rotors, you aren't allowed to get them machined if they are within tolerance, all because they wrote down they must be replaced ? - had that argument many years ago. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
zero 1162 Report post Posted December 10, 2018 2 hours ago, M3AN said: ...and there's no plausible way for a mechanic to determine if a specific diameter rotor is good/bad/acceptable/etc nor can they reasonably look that up and a consumer can't prove it (in any practical sense) one way or another... rotor diameter isn't even a valid metric with respect to absolute brake performance... Thickness, not diameter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
M3AN 4016 Report post Posted December 11, 2018 (edited) 17 hours ago, zero said: Thickness, not diameter. I wondered about that and concluded (perhaps incorrectly) that "undersized" meant "the wrong size" rather than simply "worn" which would be a less ambiguous way of stating it. On the basis that it's the width/thickness then yes, of course that should be check for any WoF. Edit: if I got failed on missing bump stops I'd cut up a pool noodle, wrap that around the strut and ask them to prove they didn't work. Edited December 11, 2018 by M3AN 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted December 11, 2018 (edited) Aaaanyway...back to the build. 17 points to all you guys for the technical inputs.? Got mee some new pressure valves and washer nozzels and man do the work good? My own lube concoction of half moly grease and copper grease for those beautiful hubs that wont let go of the wheel. ? Edited December 11, 2018 by e39525iM 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted December 12, 2018 (edited) All legal now boyz..?? Bringing on them 16s for the rear.. Gutting this interior... Dual caliper on the rear with hydraulic handbrake...? ...and E46 front lower arms with steering lock kit...?...uhh...like to. Edited December 12, 2018 by e39525iM 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted October 1, 2019 Nah boys...the L98 is going into the e39..CONFIRMED. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mad_Max 233 Report post Posted October 1, 2019 Na man, Barra the world is the new way, much more power and a lot more reliability for less work ????. Either way, good luck on your journeys, should be a fun project. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted January 3, 2020 Finally. Liposuction started. Aiming for 1200. Piping and fittings for Abs shift and clutch. Guy at Steerling brake& clutch says 36s 3/4 inch master would have enough pressure to order the slave...I have my doubts...Will see. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted January 6, 2020 Project_01-06_HD 720p_1.mp4 Project_01-06_HD 720p_1.mp4 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted January 6, 2020 (edited) Productive day. Ls sump that I've ordered is 50mm to high. The Holley one would be here in 2-3 weeks. Would fab mounts, relocate ABS pump, look at steering shaft and start Ls in the ground....that would get the eager & excitement juices pumping?? 20200106_183556.mp4 Edited January 7, 2020 by LsBeema 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted January 7, 2020 (edited) Day 2 Removed heat shield from tunnel and tidied it up by cutting studs & touching up with primer& paint. Removed slave, fuel pipes, stabilser, pwr steering piping and drained brake fluid. Made up templates and cut some steel for the mounts. Got the Line-lock and exhaust cutt-out systems out the cupboard to bring them to the party. Tried fitting the transplant but I kinda knew that the sump wouldnt clear...was just to dahm eager. I want to start the Ls up on the stand or floor with the box coupled before i cut the sump to make it fit so the mounts can get fabricated. Holley sump here in 2.5 to 3 weeks. Edited August 2, 2021 by LsBeema Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted January 7, 2020 (edited) Will be picking up the captive bush kit for the engine mounts tomorrow. Also need to source out a rear subframe for the E60 Lsd. Edited January 7, 2020 by LsBeema Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Michael. 2313 Report post Posted January 7, 2020 Will be nice to get this going. I regret using an early 1UZ in my E36 V8 swap, too much effort for little power, but it was a fun excercise. L98 with a manual T56 is terrific value. By the way, watch out using those electric cut off valves, if they can be adjusted in the cabin and exceed the noise limit of 95dba at 3000rpm this will make getting a certification plate difficult. The valves are ok as long as on the loudest setting the output is not over the prescribed dba limit for a V8. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted January 7, 2020 (edited) 20 minutes ago, Michael. said: Will be nice to get this going. I regret using an early 1UZ in my E36 V8 swap, too much effort for little power, but it was a fun excercise. L98 with a manual T56 is terrific value. By the way, watch out using those electric cut off valves, if they can be adjusted in the cabin and exceed the noise limit of 95dba at 3000rpm this will make getting a certification plate difficult. The valves are ok as long as on the loudest setting the output is not over the prescribed dba limit for a V8. Yea man...these L98s come with the Ls3 heads and make easy reliable 450 -500whp with a cam kit & lifters(haha sounds like 1920s), port & polished heads, laser points and titanium condensors with a remapped carburettor?, cold air induct and a maf-less tune. Thanks for the tip for the cut outs brru...will leave that for after the cert?. Edited January 7, 2020 by LsBeema Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted January 7, 2020 70A grade instead of 88A... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted January 8, 2020 (edited) Only a few hours of work. Engine on stand. Removed, cut & cleaned sump. Need to source out some sleeves and tubes for the engine mount bushes. Loving this build...???? 20200108_140110.mp4 Edited January 8, 2020 by LsBeema 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LsBeema 466 Report post Posted January 8, 2020 (edited) Modifying this sump took out a good few hrs from the mild transformation of the 36 ???.....annnnyway ...moving forward.... Got to moan every now and again...keeps us understanding women?? Oh used wurth silicon instead...cos I aint starting Ls up and I also held plate with some self taps Edited January 8, 2020 by LsBeema Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
