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Secniv

Picking up the baton: ‘94 E36 M3

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1 hour ago, mzhu031 said:

interesting, when I first had this car it was down for 3 months trying to get a fuel send issue sorted, apparently the relay was the problem at the time....

 

 

Haha that will explain the additional wiring here?

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You will find  that unless someone has added them, there are no O2 sensors on the car at all as the owner previous to me decatted it and removed them. Apparently there is not meant to be any issue removing them except for codes in the system.

The last time the engine had a rattle at about 1700-2000rpm it was the chain tensioner. I replaced it with a S50B32 tensioner and the sound went away. Maybe check the tensioner hasnt come loose, or isnt worn out?

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Every cloud has a silver lining.. mine is the time to do some detailing..Replaced M logo on boot.

After 25 years of exposure a new MSport badge.22002E84-75AE-4017-9479-2DE755020F22.jpeg.f75eab13cabc3806cfad3e53dec9a95e.jpeg

cleaned underneath 

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Deep cleaned and polished wheels

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also Kelvin will appreciate this I picked a 3 spoke up from pickapart pre lockdown and installed it. Not a MSport but $60 and reasonable condition will do for now.

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also replaced fuel filter that arrived 

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37 minutes ago, KwS said:

You will find  that unless someone has added them, there are no O2 sensors on the car at all as the owner previous to me decatted it and removed them. Apparently there is not meant to be any issue removing them except for codes in the system.

The last time the engine had a rattle at about 1700-2000rpm it was the chain tensioner. I replaced it with a S50B32 tensioner and the sound went away. Maybe check the tensioner hasnt come loose, or isnt worn out?

Well bugger me you’re right no sensors. Looks like I may have new sensor for sale ffs.

Strangely the scan only showed an issue on cylinder 1-3 (sensor 1) and not 4-6. Is there any benefit adding them back in for performance, fuel consumption or emissions?

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would they work without the cats?

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I'd think at the very least you'd get a plausibility error because pre- and post-cat sensors will read the same, when they shouldn't.

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17 minutes ago, M3AN said:

I'd think at the very least you'd get a plausibility error because pre- and post-cat sensors will read the same, when they shouldn't.

IIRC they only have pre cat sensors, no post cat sensors on the 3.0. I have no idea if it would make a difference, but i decided it wasnt worth the cost to try. The plugs were still there, tucked up to the side. When i scanned it with DIS i got an error for both sensors.

That steering wheel is much better. The old bus wheel has nice ///M stitching, but is so un-sporty. Its a shame the near new E46 three spoke I have in the garage doesnt work on E36s :(

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6 minutes ago, KwS said:

IIRC they only have pre cat sensors, no post cat sensors on the 3.0.

Yep, that's correct, my bad.

 

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2 hours ago, KwS said:

IIRC they only have pre cat sensors, no post cat sensors on the 3.0. I have no idea if it would make a difference, but i decided it wasnt worth the cost to try. The plugs were still there, tucked up to the side. When i scanned it with DIS i got an error for both sensors.

That steering wheel is much better. The old bus wheel has nice ///M stitching, but is so un-sporty. Its a shame the near new E46 three spoke I have in the garage doesnt work on E36s :(

Excuse my ignorance but why would you need to disconnect the upstream sensors if the cats are removed and there’s no downstream sensors?

Found this post

Indicates possibility that it’s detrimental unplugging sensors.. what is the implication of just plugging them back in? Certainly when it’s cold car is sluggish but soon warms up and runs fine.

I checked your Tastes like petrol site Kelvin and read up your swapping the tensioner for an upgraded S50B32. Would have thought it would last longer than 5 years but I will check to be certain cheers.

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TBH i suspect they were removed purely because there was nowhere to screw them in when they welded in the resonators instead of the cats (E: because the sensors mount in the front of the cats, not the pipe) 😂

I cant imagine it would hurt having some bungs welded in and the sensors fitted. I never noticed any sluggishness when cold, and it drove the same as my M328i which was factory optioned with no cats/O2 sensors.

Depending on the Ks now its probably been about 40,000km since I did that tensioner.

Edited by KwS
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I hate to be 'that guy' but that alignment is pretty damn bad.

Check you are not getting camber wear at the rear, cause the toe is way out back there.

When you do your rta bushes and limiters you will probably want a new alignment anyway so best to go somewhere different. 

If you are ever up in Auckland then autolign is awesome - i wont go anywhere else now.

Also, Daves tip on swapping the front top hats is a good one, so do that too before you get the alignment sorted.

 

I'm loving the progress though - keep up the great work.

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5 hours ago, zero said:

I hate to be 'that guy' but that alignment is pretty damn bad.

Check you are not getting camber wear at the rear, cause the toe is way out back there.

When you do your rta bushes and limiters you will probably want a new alignment anyway so best to go somewhere different. 

If you are ever up in Auckland then autolign is awesome - i wont go anywhere else now.

Also, Daves tip on swapping the front top hats is a good one, so do that too before you get the alignment sorted.

 

I'm loving the progress though - keep up the great work.

No wear at this stage but it’s not right and realign once I change out the rtabs (will need to source the tool or have done).

Thanks for the tip re Autolign. Are you referring to the parts supplier as I didn’t know they did alignments as well. Which branch do you use? 

Yeah I looked at changing out front strut mounts but cheapest OE I could find was US$310 +shipping and as originals had no play and bearings were smooth became a nice todo.

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I use the Mt Wellington branch, as does Dave.

I see there is a Hamilton branch too.

 

As for the front strut mount trick, you dont need new ones, you swap them over from left to right to get extra camber.

Extra camber for the front wheels is the best handling improvement for our cars over all the adjustments.

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Have had plenty of garage time and as I’ve explained to wife it’s dangerous to climb ladders currently with risk of broken bones and catching Covid19 at the hospital 😉

Ticking off items on the project list.

Clean, paint & rebuild brake callipers

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Used a combo of wire brush, electric drill with wire brush attachments, dremmel wire brushes, sand paper and brake cleaner.

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Painted with 4 coates of Duplicolour Calliper paint and 3 coates of high heat clear over top. Blue’s my fav colour. Decided not to use MSport logos as I would have had cover up the MSport stamp on the callipers.

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Used ATE ex-FCP Euro seals and followed instructions placing dust shield at bottom of piston before pressing in using g-clamp. Straight forward.

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I’m really pleased with the results.

Moving to the rear.

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More corrosion here and pistons were a little seized!

Plus the pads had disintegrated!,

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Looks like a BMW stamp?

So need to get replacement pads. Supercheap and Repco online is available. Anyone make any recommendations for the brands stocked?  XP dba, Reco brand, TWR or Silverline? May end up being stop gap.

Also replace gearbox mounts

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Straightforward loosening top nut then using jack to take weight then dropping gearbox bracket a bit then remove mounting nuts top and bottom before sliding out. Install the reverse.

 

Edited by Secniv
Doubled up on a photo & gramma
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It can be the smallest things that can hold you up, which wouldn’t normally be a problem but for a lockdown. More on this later..

I was able to source rear brake pads through NZAD as they are an essential item and we’re delivered within days of ordering.

So painted and rebuilt rears as per fronts.

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Next I moved on to the rtabs. After a few false starts and then with some local support (who will remain nameless but Covid19 protocols observed) I managed to create a tool to remove and install the bushes.

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Theres a lot of online guides on the process so won’t go into details.

The pockets looked really good and no corrosion.

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I installed some poly limiters ex FCPEuro.

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Replaced fluid and bleed brakes with new Dot4 and then did clutch as well.

So for some reason the clutch slave wouldn’t bleed. Removed screw looked all ok so removed slave. After faffing about and getting it on the bench figured the outlet was blocked. So flushed it with new fluid. Replaced bleed screw and cross threaded it.. *&#$! So after a day of trying tap and die, then using thread tape no luck. And of course I had given my old E30 callipers away and while Supercheap had them listed and would have delivered as an essential item they oos 😢

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Replacement ordered but here I’m stuck for now. Guess I’ll have to do those household chores..

 

 

Edited by Secniv
Superfluous photo
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Back on the road post-lockdown.

As per last post I was having a challenge bleeding the clutch. Tried pumping clutch method (till my son and wife got fed up), reverse bleed, vacuum bleed and power bleed (thanks Nick from Weitz Ind. for the loan) but just couldn’t get all the air out and good pressure.

So I ordered a replacement slave (waited a week from FCP), installed and still no improvement! So ordered new flexible hose into the slave, master cylinder from FCP (another week) and inlet hose and connector locally (Level2).

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Once I got the master out it was obviously toast with gaiter torn and weeping.

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Followed an excellent diy on how to replace the master and clean/re-lube the pedal assembly 

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?785827-Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Replacement-amp-Creaky-Pedal-Fix-DIY

It is a real fiddly job in an awkward place. Having the drivers seat out imo made it a lot easier.

Used the power bleeder, so easy to use just put a bottle of Castrol Dot4 in container, Connect to reservoir, pump up to 20psi, connect hose and catch-can to slave, open nipple, wait until fluid comes through and no air. Done.

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While waiting for parts I had collected some replacement door cards from Pick-a-part. They were from a 98’ coupe in grey, had a crack but otherwise great condition with no separation and pockets sound. Plastic top rails were broken but I had sourced some alloy replacements ex-Turtle Labs.

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Cleaned, repaired and painted the cards. Once we got to Level3 I was able to drop off to Master Trim here in Hamilton. I also dropped in the drivers seat which was well worn, separating and shabby. I sourced the material out of Arizona when I was in SoCal last year.

While I had the seat out I removed the passenger seat as well and gave the carpets and seats a good clean.

Master Trim had them back to me inside a week and what an improvement.

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Turtle’s recommendation is to place the top rail in its door clips apply the adhesive to the rail and I used Ados High Performance Adhesive Sealant which is flexible, handles heat and similar that used for mounting windscreens. Based on my research should do the job.

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Interior looks great now and even has that new car smell. Makes such a difference.

 

 

Edited by Secniv
Removed superfluous photos
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Fook... that looks good.

Edit: I'll have some questions when I pick my jaw up off the floor.

Edited by M3AN
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Jesus that interior looks good!

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+1 on interior upgrade. Very nice!!

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That looks fantastic man well done.

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I belong (amongst others) to a drivers group called ARTDI (a reason to drive it) and we had our first drive Sunday morning since before lockdown. With another bimmersporter from Hamilton #audiguy in a Z4M we drove through to Rotorua to meet up.

A varied collection of 35 cars turned up (groups of 10 and SD procedures observed 😏).701E1E1C-CBB5-4D46-BBD4-2DE26CC36F51.jpeg.a0f0409a7650ddc07c0ccb4429d6c33b.jpeg522F18FC-D852-4D57-BC18-9544F1900729.jpeg.ae52c24e089da1455464e336279b43f3.jpegF71ECF35-14F4-4FF5-88D1-6C6FEACEC12E.jpeg.8fd8b6aca7b912c9590d5d4e5e584daa.jpeg

The organiser Earle driving the orange Audi TT Quattro 3.2V6 (I owned a silver one a few years back) and is lead car for the Targa rally. He choose the course for the day using many of the roads used by Targa.

Well what a blast ‘following’ the TT and the Z4M. Best of all the M3 performed flawlessly on some testing roads and even though it needs a rear wheel alignment after changing the RTABs. Have some replacement wishbones and bushes to do then will get a proper alignment done.

Edited by Secniv
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3 months gone by quick. Have done a few things to the M3:

I replaced all the rear suspension bushes and control arms.9F331E7E-17C0-4F95-85ED-168C781E35A9.thumb.jpeg.ad71c392d3b8d033cfa7417e8b1b263a.jpeg4076C80E-3A78-4DFE-BF27-6E5195147034.thumb.jpeg.72b41a6f98a214fb93a81b42d80268b3.jpeg57EC7337-A443-48B5-BFF5-C09AF2B31FFC.thumb.jpeg.dd25aa9539fda6f53291f5bc6fc3f14b.jpeg

Now I’d be pretty pleased about this but there is now a knock from the rear end which I can’t trace (With pry bar and mallet). I didn’t replace the subframe mounts and I’m wondering if they have gone (look ok) with it sitting in the air for quite a while or using the jack on the subframe to lift the rear.
Any ideas I’m happy to explore.

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Everything torqued to spec whilst under load? 

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On 8/29/2020 at 7:46 PM, KwS said:

Everything torqued to spec whilst under load? 

I thought I did but I'm going to go over them again to be sure. Thanks

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So I did a bit of a blue a while back and it's been bugging me since. 

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I drop a bar on the roof and it creased the roof edge. When I got the dent remover guy in to remove some other minor dents he wasn't able to pull it out as it was on a crease line. So I put a claim in with Classic Cover who approved it and I took it in to Prestige Repairs here in Hamilton.

There was a bit of other touching up needed with respraying wing mirrors and boot lid, plus stone chips on the bonnet and few other spots around the car.  They ended up have to respray the whole roof and down the A and C pillars to blend it in and came up really well although I did have to take back for a little more buffing which they handled promptly. I'll post some photos when I get a chance and it's not raining.

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