e46 330ci Clubsport SSG

[Eagle 1662]

Knocking turned out to be Meyle HD mounts. I had all the boot trim off, lying in boot whilst someone drove the car and you couldn't pin point where the noise was coming from,  sounded like a mount noise though so i disconnected the shocks and it was gone. Not exactly sure why they failed as nothing visibly wrong with them. Car was on jack stands for a couple of week which may have contributed to it, but my Ti had a similar noise with the same mounts and replacing those solved it also. Turns out im just one of many people to have problems with them knocking after a short period, ive never had an issue with Meyle HD stuff until now. Will avoid in the future and go with more cushioned Sachs\Lemforder mounts.

Tried another DME to see if that would fix my cruise control situation but no change so likely a faulty clutch module. Replacement for the lost one is supposedly on its way from UK.    

Faded L\H reverse light was annoying me so that's been replaced to match the other side

Likely the only non OE features ill be adding to the car. Bit of insurance and security never hurts.    

Viofo A139 dash cams and my old Uniden R1  

Mfactory Helical LSD. 

[Vass 830]

Hot damn! What did that LSD cost you? Looks a decent bit of kit.

[Eagle 1662]

1.6k + $300 for taxes etc. May need to be shimmed but shouldn't cost too much.  Yeah they seem to be recommended by everyone for a road car and last forever being gear driven.  

[Eagle 1662]

Ended up buying a spare 2.93 diff to remove the bearings and swap the center into. Should be able to sell my old unit once this one is in. Needed a decent puller to get the bearings off and no lip for the puller to grab on one end (i carefully die grinded one). All went back together fine but unfortunately the backlash increased from 0.11 to 0.22 after re-assembly. Good news is its going up to KBM to get re-shimmed so shouldn't have any issues once its back in.

[Eagle 1662]

Diff back and installed. Never used a helical but you certainly notice the rear end pushing and wanting rotate more freely, even on low speed corners. Breaks traction nicely too and very easy to control. Probably re-program the DSC with M-track settings to optimize it. 

Bad news is there was some wear some on crown wheel and pinion which meant backlash couldn't be adjusted to spec without the gear pattern being off. Certainly the classic thump\vibration due to this when engaging first and shifting in the lower gears. Old diff was very tight and quiet compared to this one, so i hindsight i would of used that. Will have to live with it for the time being and maybe try some heavier oil after break in (Recommend Toreco oil is thin). Will keep my old unit to swap out incase i get sick of it.    

Got rid of the crappy cup holders too and made some usable space

[Eagle 1662]

Came across a post discussing E46 ride height - turns out the OE Lemforder\Sachs mounts are actually different design to the originals and are taller. When replacing mine i had noted it but assumed it was all due to wear. Now knowing why my front end was sitting a bit higher (factoring in the reinforcement plates) i ordered a set of Eibach Pro-kit springs - black, slightly lower and firmer than OE sport springs. Also got a pair of Z4 strut mounts(not installed) which are shorter and give an additional ~10mm drop over OE ones if i need be.

Its pretty subtle compared to before but exactly what i was after - ~10mm drop in front & ~7 mm rear. Don't expect any additional settling in drop but will see.   

[hunter 408]

On 9/17/2022 at 4:28 PM, Eagle said:

Came across a post discussing E46 ride height - turns out the OE Lemforder\Sachs mounts are actually different design to the originals and are taller.

 

This is an interesting observation. i noted when i replaced mine in the E39 i noted it sits higher than the original height. I also noted that the strut mouints removed form the front where different in design. this was due to one being replaced at some stage.

i would say its 5-10 mm difference. did the arcticle mention if the OEM ones were still the same design (lower profile). i love how my car rides but still think the front end sits too high when compared to the back end.

 

I think they are the same between various models too (3,5,1 series) as long as you dont have EDC

Edited September 18, 2022 by hunter

[Eagle 1662]

Lemforder\Sachs are OE and redesigned them at some point. Im not sure if OE Genuine BMW ones are the original design(would think so) or they changed those as well, either way they probably cost $$$.  Possibly other aftermarket brands like Meyle, Febi, etc use the original design\molds, hard to tell unless you see the actual product. If i come across OE E46 mounts i will compare the height to my Z4 ones, they certainly have less rubber and a thicker metal top than my current Lemforders.

Best option would be like i did and Z4 ones if you want guaranteed lowering -https://spareto.com/products/febi-bilstein-top-strut-mounting/45059. You can get genuine BMW Z4 ones too but they are very expensive.

Not much info or pictures on people fitting them so who knows how all 3 compare in ride height.   

Edited September 18, 2022 by Eagle

[str8_6 275]

I noticed a slight ride height increase in the e39 M5 with new Bilstein struts and Lemforder mounts. Wasn’t sure if it was the spring perch being different, particularly on the rear. Kinda happy it’s a bit higher, saves me ruining the front undertray on the driveway. 

[Eagle 1662]

Noticed that on past cars with Blistein B6\B8. Spring perches and higher gas pressures compared to old units ive always assumed. 

Front camber back in spec now too

 

[Eagle 1662]

Seats

Ive never been happy with my seats, they are certainly not uncomfortable but very lacking once you start cornering harder. Having to brace your knees against the console and holding on to the wheel gets old quick. The foam bolstering on the RHS is a little worn\sagged as you'd expect with all these older seats, but i dont think replacement top and bottom sections @ $800 is going to improve it that much. Also the leather seats aren't quite as grippy as the equivalent fabric units.

Decided to experiment\gamble on other options. Shipping prices and quotes i got for one seat overseas were basically the cost of the seat itself, so i ruled that out quickly. Locally no one really stocks anything besides racing buckets and didn't really want to order in something expensive i couldnt test sit in.  I figured with the somewhat decent selection for second hard Recaro seats that they were probably the best option. 

E46 seat bases were still available from Nengen in Japan for around $500 landed so i went with that. Turns out the older E46 bases had been discontinued, only option was to go with the newer bases which sit lower and no height adjustment built in (as below).  Im guessing these are more for designed for bucket seats and\or newer Recaro seat models or maybe they are just cost cutting.

I saw some Japanese vinyl seat covers for a Recaro SR-3 on facebook and a single good condition SR3 seat on tm. Seat seller was in Auckland and was very hard to contact so i couldn't actually view the seat, gambled and hit the buy now.

SR3 - Upon sitting in it i immediately felt it pinching the side of my glutes, trying to move your bum forward relives this some what but now your spine is bent and has no lumber support. Im not fatty with 36" waist, but the seat base being narrow esp at the rear with high side bolstering means if you have a developed some quads and glutes, you get pressure on them from being squeezed. Being taller and having broader shoulders i find they are sitting on outer edges of the upper bolstering rather than inside them. Its really a seat built for your average Japanese guy aka skinny with little muscle it seems, probably fits them like gloves if they used it in so many JDM cars. In saying that is its still much more supportive than the stock E46 seat in cornering. I took it on a 300km trip and it did seem to get more comfortable as my body adapted to the discomfort, but i did have some delayed back pain after. Shame as i thought the SR3 with vinyl covers matched the stock seat ok.  

Recaro E46 mount (new style)-  1" too low with the SR3 even after being raised at base by 30mm (Im 182cm tall). Still livable. Side seat bolster slightly pushes against the door card arm rest when door is closed. If base or seat were higher it would probably clear. The SR3 upper bolsters do flair out a bit at the top which doesn't help. 

Im leaving it for now but will likely sell the SR3 and keep an eye out for a later SR series seat. Would have to be taller, more comfortable and has good support. SR6 maybe or later SRXX series. 

 

Z4 Msport Sway bars

Picked these up from Ray - 25mm front and 19mm rear. Biggest OE front bar that is a direct fit (M3 one isnt really). I always thought that non M E46's with sport suspension came with bigger bars, turns out that was the earlier 98\01 cars with S226A\S338A option (24mm front and 19mm rear)  From April '01 they all used 23\23.5mm front and 18mm rear (excl 'vert with 20mm rear option)

Certainly helped with the turn in response, removed some understeer bias with no noticeable change in ride quality. Ended up using E60\E61 25,2mm Corteco synthetic rubber front bushings, genuine ones were overpriced and the only option at $80ea. Had some Lemforder 19mm bushings id ordered by accident awhile go so was good to make use of them. 

 

Clock fix

Suffered the classic shitty BMW plastic failure and couldn't adjust the time due to the plastic tabs breaking. $25 Ebay 3D printed part to remedy.

Edited December 10, 2022 by Eagle

[Eagle 1662]

Also fitted new Michelin PS4 all rounded to replace the noisy 6 year old RE003's. Was going to go to a square setup with 235\40 and new PS5's but i found brand new 255 rears someone was selling fairly cheap.  Car is so much quieter and more compliant over rough seal but initial steering response isn't as good (only positive thing i can say about the RE003)   

[hunter 408]

On 12/10/2022 at 3:38 PM, Eagle said:

Im not fatty with 36" waist,

i take exception to this

 

 

[Eagle 1662]

Who knows it may be more comfortable with extra padding. Much prefer the E39 sport seats over anyone E46 ones ive sat in.

[Sammo 2544]

44 minutes ago, Eagle said:

Who knows it may be more comfortable with extra padding. Much prefer the E39 sport seats over anyone E46 ones ive sat in.

I had E46 M3 seats in my 330ci and even with the inflating side bolsters I wasn't a huge fan - looked good though.

Apparently E92 M3 seats fit and work well, although difficult to source used.

SR3 looks pretty natural in there - are later models wider?

[Eagle 1662]

1 hour ago, Sammo said:

I had E46 M3 seats in my 330ci and even with the inflating side bolsters I wasn't a huge fan - looked good though.

Apparently E92 M3 seats fit and work well, although difficult to source used.

SR3 looks pretty natural in there - are later models wider?

I agree, the E46 M3 seats ive sat in didn't feel much of an upgrade either, worn bolsters don't help but they are a one size fit all like most seats. Yeah some of the later M's ones look and likely perform good, but don't think they really suit the E46 interior if you trying to keep it period correct.

The Recaro Speed is essentially the new version of the SR3, i would like to give it a test but finding one to sit in locally wouldn't be easy. Width wise all the SR versions upto 7 seem to be within ~20mm, but that's bolster to bolster (most of them use the same bottom side bolsters). Dont think it really takes into the account the bottom cushion profiles which does vary in length as well as back profile and height. The SR3 is too short in length for average NZ male height.

Until you try them out you just dont know exactly what's going fit you personally. Id guessing the newer seats would likely fit the average person better and they have factory provisions to fit inflatable lumber bladders.

[Eagle 1662]

Originally i wanted to some additional support\rigidity for the subframe floor. The only non intrusive option available at the time was the Vincebar, but they were too expensive and not easily available. CMP engineering in Australia released their updated front and rear version at the end of Sept '22. They much cheaper to buy(just over $400 NZD shipped) and additional tower braces can be bolted on later if required, they can also be installed without having to remove anything from the underside. I got a head start thanks to @Vass giving me the instructions for the rear while i waiting for mine to arrive. 

The rear was much harder to install than the front, lots more welding in harder positions given you are in the boot. I had already been in there installing the Reddish chassis plates so had to undo alot of work - clearing seam sealer, paint and i had to weld additional material to the Reddish plates to match CMP ones. Also checked the spot welds on the rear chassis rails beneath the rear seats - found one at failed each side. Those were repaired and i did the recommended stich welding between the spot welds (Reddish never mentioned this area)

Front was straight forward, much less welding and more comfortable to work  (as much as you can expect to be squatting\kneeling in the back). Had to add some additional sheet metal to cover up Reddish cover plate holes.

Again the Reddish cover plates made a mess of rear. Once the local BMW wreckers open i will be getting a cut out for the rear boot\tyre well. Once that is tacked and sealed in place it should tidy it up nicely. CMP's methods of removal are much better in this regard too. I certainly recommend CMP over anyone else at the moment. They are only ones to publicly document all failure areas the need to be checked, prices\shipping are good and Cayn the owner is very helpful   

Here's the instructions which give you an idea. I really cbf'd taking pictures.

Front (only fits E46 coupe and sedans with fold down rear seats) - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/r0yptrrfvz3sh06g3btag/h?dl=0&rlkey=d3ak9st81tz52mwrg6jhi8gq4

Rear - https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sgo61ce8idx7gd5/AAByD0GhZa-EsWnOf31JQbzda?dl=0

 

Also ordered\installed CMP monoballs. Expensive yes, but i justified it by saying my preload angle for the RTAB pocket was incorrect (i had lowered the car after it was set), they place less stress on the RTAB pocket and ive already converted the lower joint RTAB joint to spherical M3 one.

Certainly much more force needed to install these compared to your average bushing. If you are doing them on the car you'd need grade 8.8+ threaded rod, bolt\thrust washer and preferably a long 1\2" ratchet. A ball joint press may work but would be a pita to line up properly. I also painted the outside flanges for the OE look. 

 

 

 

Ordered solid alloy subframe brushings from MK-motorsport in Germany. Additional research and talking to people has me convinced that it is the way to go. Yeah i should of done them the first time around (could say that for most suspension related work ive done on this car) but you do really get to see how each improvement changes the vehicle, as opposed to doing everything at once.

Edited January 3, 2023 by Eagle

[Vass 830]

Nice stuff. Wish I had any sort of welding experience, will have to bribe a mate to give mine the treatment.

What was the reason you went with MK over CMP's subframe bushes? 

[elias 253]

On 8/14/2022 at 5:51 PM, Eagle said:

Diff back and installed. Never used a helical but you certainly notice the rear end pushing and wanting rotate more freely, even on low speed corners. Breaks traction nicely too and very easy to control. Probably re-program the DSC with M-track settings to optimize it. 

Bad news is there was some wear some on crown wheel and pinion which meant backlash couldn't be adjusted to spec without the gear pattern being off. Certainly the classic thump\vibration due to this when engaging first and shifting in the lower gears. Old diff was very tight and quiet compared to this one, so i hindsight i would of used that. Will have to live with it for the time being and maybe try some heavier oil after break in (Recommend Toreco oil is thin). Will keep my old unit to swap out incase i get sick of it.    

Got rid of the crappy cup holders too and made some usable space

have the exact same issue with my mfactory diff that Kayne barrie installed for me, bad pinion bearing caused wear on the pinion and ring gears so backlash is loose, and it makes clunky noises, on my 135i that is. Replacing pinion, I was quoted $1400 for, and even then the gears are still worn do wouldn't solve the issue, seems like getting a good condition diff form a wrecker is the best solution. 

[Eagle 1662]

9 minutes ago, Vass said:

Nice stuff. Wish I had any sort of welding experience, will have to bribe a mate to give mine the treatment.

What was the reason you went with MK over CMP's subframe bushes? 

Easy enough to pickup, but yeah maybe let your mate take on the risk for your nice car.

I though id better check the MK ones are standard height after i wrote that.

CMP ones are raising type for lowered cars, so if i used them i may not have enough negative camber using stock eccentrics. I read a M3 forums post about a guy using CMP ones with M3 stock springs and he only could get -0.5-1.0 of negative camber. Eibach springs only lowered the rear about 5-8mm on mine, so dont want to risk needing camber arms (cert).

 

[Eagle 1662]

8 minutes ago, elias said:

have the exact same issue with my mfactory diff that Kayne barrie installed for me, bad pinion bearing caused wear on the pinion and ring gears so backlash is loose, and it makes clunky noises, on my 135i that is. Replacing pinion, I was quoted $1400 for, and even then the gears are still worn do wouldn't solve the issue, seems like getting a good condition diff form a wrecker is the best solution. 

Did you have any noticeable backlash with the stock diff? My old diff was very quiet\good backlash\slack and was thinking on swapping the center over to that one at some point. Mainly hear it on\off throttle and changing in lower gears around town etc.

In saying that i think using worn parts with new center is always going to create some slop somewhere. No one can guarantee any wrecker diff would be good until you use it with the new center.

[elias 253]

On 1/3/2023 at 6:56 PM, Eagle said:

Did you have any noticeable backlash with the stock diff? My old diff was very quiet\good backlash\slack and was thinking on swapping the center over to that one at some point. Mainly hear it on\off throttle and changing in lower gears around town etc.

In saying that i think using worn parts with new center is always going to create some slop somewhere. No one can guarantee any wrecker diff would be good until you use it with the new center.

no I had no noticeable backlash with the stock diff head in the stock housing. But once the factory diff was put in, I think Kayne Barrie set it a bit looser on the backlash in order own ensure the gear meshing was safe. Yeah mostly getting on/off the throttle its bit clunky.

Yes, however if the wrecker's diff is in good shape, without excessive pinion bearing wear, the gears should be in good enough shape to be able to adjust backlash properly, however like you say there is no guarantee.

[Eagle 1662]

3 hours ago, elias said:

no I had no noticeable backlash with the stock diff head in the stock housing. But once the factory diff was put in, I think Kayne Barrie set it a bit looser on the backlash in order own ensure the gear meshing was safe. Yeah mostly getting on/off the throttle its bit clunky.

Yes, however if the wrecker's diff is in good shape, without excessive pinion bearing wear, the gears should be in good enough shape to be able to adjust backlash properly, however like you say there is no guarantee.

Yeah pretty much the same as me. I think you'd have to at least take the diff to someone to have the backlash measured before buying it. As you know the E9X & E8X diffs are rubbish, so finding a good one these days might be hard.  

[Eagle 1662]

Had a loud creaking from the rear that randomly started after 1000km when i installed new Lemforder lower arms and joints. Was intermittent and only really heard on low speed bumps and jacking up the car. Traced it to lower joint on one side so i sprayed some WD40 into the rubber boot and it was gone, figured it must be a bad joint and replaced it, then the other side started doing the same thing. Only thing left to fault was the new arms, i replaced one side to confirm and then the other.

First time ive had issues with Lemforder stuff. Not sure what exactly what was causing the noise. Arm itself measured roughly the same, but the bushing appears to be a different design with a chamfered face. Could be the wrong bushing or some sort of manufacturing defect somewhere. Im curious so might try to remove these ones and install my OE Lemforder spares, doesn't matter if i damage the arm at this point.   

Lemforder 2511401 arm from Spareto. Made in Poland.

Original bushing

Edited January 5, 2023 by Eagle

[elias 253]

4 hours ago, Eagle said:

Yeah pretty much the same as me. I think you'd have to at least take the diff to someone to have the backlash measured before buying it. As you know the E9X & E8X diffs are rubbish, so finding a good one these days might be hard.  

yeah would want to get it checked over before hand for sure